Off we go, around Town Basin and up into the hills. Alice can’t find the first park, the Mt. Parihaka lookout, but I’ve got my trusty map and navigate us there in no time. It’s actually pretty easy to get to the 3 parks – it’s a big loop around the mountain and back.
We make it to Mt. Parihaka without issue. As we park the car and head up the stairs to the lookout, we are greeted by a guy in a yellow vest ( who is talking to a tall, stout guy with flowing grey hair who reminds us of Captain Wild Bill from Deadliest Catch), offering us brochures and even sunblock if we need it. How cool is that? These Kiwi’s – so polite. We decline the sunblock and head up to the lookout.
Parihaka is actually an eroded volcanic cone that affords incredible views of the harbor and surrounding towns. We make our first stop at the lookout, which is an homage to the Maori fortress that was here. The ridge was the site of extensive Maori settlements, including 3 heavily defended “Pa” (or fortress) sites. There was a huge battle and massacre in the 17 or 1800’s (depending upon which brochure you read) when invaders figured out they could burn the fortress down, and ended up killing virtually all of warriors. Afterward, the area was considered sacred (tapu) and no one was allowed to visit. Today, there are two memorials there – an Obelisk dedicated to those who fought in the World Wars, unveiled in 1957 – and a specially carved rock (kohatu) which represents the mauri (life essence) of the mountain.
It’s beautiful and peaceful up here, the scenery totally worth the drive – and the climb up the stairs.
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