Saturday, February 20, 2016

2/20–Last week in Chiang Mai

We’re just hanging out.  Law and Order marathons in the heat of the day.  Outings to Warorot to refill our vegetable and fruit supplies.  Downton Abbey and O.J. in the mornings.  Experimenting with boiled jackfruit seeds – dried and salted – they taste a little like red skin potatoes and are reputed to have all sorts of medicinal purposes (sounds like the Royal bee jelly in Vietnam – it will cure anything and everything!).

Dinner one night at Bamboo (the restaurant, not the bar) where the girls are so sweet, they greet us like we are long lost customers even though we’ve never been here before!  Chicken wings to start, Pad Thai and Fried fish with garlic to share. Excellent!

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Roadside for a nightcap (different singer there on Saturday night) and then home.

Dinner Sunday night at O’Malley’s where Ed relives his #2 best burger in the world (which may have risen to #1 since Kangaroo Café in Hanoi didn’t live up to its previous high standard) and I have the roasted pork sandwich which was excellent.

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Night cap at the Bamboo bar with Ganh and Patrick, of course.

Monday was Makha Bucha day, a national holiday in honor of the Buddha’s teachings.  No alcohol is allowed to be served today, so we stay in the whole day, reading, blogging, watching TV and feasting on pan sautéed chicken and salad for dinner.

Tuesday we revisit Pho Anh for their fabulous, authentic Vietnamese cooking.  We start with those awesome spring rolls again, then finish up with yellow noodle soup for Ed and shredded pork and rice for me. 

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So good – and they are so lovely there – thanking us for coming back before we left (the owner remembered we were leaving).  Such kindness and friendliness makes it incredibly hard to leave here.

Wednesday we are cooking in again – this time Dory fish (who knows? We got it at the grocery store).  But first we go to Tawan’s for happy IMG_3448hour again.  Ed gets his 2 for 1 beer and I want the big wine for 69 baht. But that doesn’t start until 6 and it is only 5:30.  What the heck, it’s only 99 baht regularly, so I just tell them I’ll have a big glass now anyway. Well, the girl serving us is so cute, she comes back with this huge glass of wine and says “can you drink this fast?  I am supposed to leave 3 fingers and I gave you a  big glass. Can you drink it so no one will see?”  Yes, I can!  How sweet. 

We wait until 6, I get another glass of wine and we share the cheese plate again.  A storm rolls in, but just the wind and lower temps, fortunately no rain, so we walk home in lovely breezy, cool conditions.

Thursday finds us vegging out during the day, then Back to O’Malley’s at night.  This time for a Reuben for Ed and Pad Thai for me.  Both good – Pad Thai oddly seasoned and a pinkish-red color, but very good tasting.  And of the course the carafe of wine isn’t hard to take either!

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We end our evening at the Bamboo where Ganh is in an odd mood, staring out at the dwindling Night Market crowds.  We give her the red skin peanuts we bought for her (long story, she likes this type of peanut).  We enjoy Patrick for a while, then head back to the condo.

Friday, in celebration of my birthday, I walk down to Warorot for a last day of shopping.  I pick up some birthday presents for myself and Stephanie (not telling what – since Steph’s BD is in 2 weeks), and a new watch band (original Swiss watch brand – it said so on the tag) for $4.50 US (I swear….installed….and it says it is genuine leather!  Smile ).  More fruit (last jack fruit, I’m so sad…) and then, as a little birthday treat, these yummy looking turnovers – 1 coconut, 1 pineapple.

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They turn out not to be as yummy as they look.  Sort of no taste at all, but they cost 17 cents each, so, how could I resist?

Evening comes and we head for Dash Teak House, hands down our favorite restaurant here.  Dash greets us himself (as always) and seats us at a great table in the corner of the garden. We have a birds’ eye view of the restaurant, house and all the comings and goings!

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Dinner is fantastic.  We share fresh spring rolls, then crispy fried whole fish with garlic and pork belly with roti (again – too good to pass up!).  Ed has a locally brewed craft beer from Chiang Mai brewery (where are the pretzels??) and we enjoy the evening. 

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Dash has asked about dessert (hoping he isn’t spoiling any surprise – no – he’s not!) and we dig into a wonderful brownie with vanilla ice cream (lighting makes the ice cream look like mint – it’s not).  

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Wonderful! We’re all set and ask for the check. As we are settling up, here comes a bunch of servers, with a mango cheesecake, along with the band singing happy birthday.  What?  Oh well, the whole restaurant sings, they clap, I blush, and we end up with our second dessert.  It was also wonderful! As we are leaving Mom comes up to wish me a happy birthday, we chat, and hug. Then Dash comes up and tells us that Mom obviously missed the memo!  Yeah, she did. but it was a wonderful memo to miss…so no worries. An excellent birthday evening for me.

We stroll back to the moat road, fully sated and sugared out, grab a tuk tuk and crash back at Twin Peaks for the rest of the evening.

Saturday finds us back in the condo all day.   Dinner is stir fried chicken with noodles.  There is enough for an army – so we’ll have a  very nice lunch on one of our last days here.

Sunday we actually go out for lunch. We’ve shunned Butter is Better Bakery every time we’ve been here, just because it is so, well, Western.  But today, we need lunch and the sandwiches are supposed to be beyond compare.  We end up outside, but that is fine, since it is cool today with a great breeze.  Ed gets the Reuben, and I opt for the pulled pork BBQ sandwich (hey, if I’m going Western, I’m going Western – or Southern as the case may be).

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It’s expensive (really, for Chiang Mai standards, it’s pricey), but it is really really good. The BBQ is totally southern. How do they do it? Don’t know, but it works. And the Reuben is fantastic.  Meat, Sauerkraut, dressing….all totally authentic and great.  The corned beef is made in-house and is perfect.  We’re full! 

Afterward, Ed goes home, while I indulge in my last Pedicure/Manicure here.  I’ll so miss this.  $12 for a mani/pedi.  sigh….

Sunday night we make our way back to the River Market.  Yeah. Shunned 2 years ago, visited twice this time. It’s great! Location fabulous. Food equally as fabulous. Tonight we revisit the Son-in-law eggs and stuffed chicken wing for apps, but decide to share the Pork Knuckle.  Good call!  We’re stuffed from the appetizers, and the Pork Knuckle is huge.  And awesome. Great sauce (a Burmese curry), perfectly cooked.  Wonderful!

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After the feast, we walk across the iron bridge road to the Bus Bar. We’ve looked at this place for years, but never made it here. It is a great location, right on the river, now with a “DJ” bus, where music is piped in, and a stage where a band is setting up.  We hang out and have a two big Chang beers (wine only by the bottle).  Except for the inattentive staff, it’s a great place to hang out for an evening. 

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Done with our shared beers, we head back home, stopping at a bottle shop to pick up a nice bottle of Australian white for me – only $10US  - not bad considering.

Monday – our last day – I’m already tearing up!  We have lunch at the Pad Thai place across from the Shangri-La.  The prices have gone up in 2 years – oh no! It’s now 40 baht for pad thai, not 35. What ever will we do?  LOL.  We ask for beer – the owner says Chang?  We say yes. Off he goes on his scooter – he has to buy the beer!  No way!  Yes way!  So, we have Pad Thai for virtually nothing – and beer for double that – but still, less than $5 for lunch with beer!  Can’t beat it.

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Off to Roadside for our last dinner. We are trying to conserve our Baht, because we don’t have much left. We know we have to get more tomorrow to pay for the electricity here (an unexpected expense)  but we want to try to make do tonight with what we have left.  Fortunately, we know what we want at Roadside, and we can afford it.

We order the fried chicken Ed had last time that was so good, and even though I want that too, we decide to order the pork omelet and share both dishes.  Good decision! The chicken is even better than the first time we had it. So crispy and good. And the omelet? Like nothing we have ever had before. It is almost deep fried – actually, I think it is deep fried, and so wonderful – light, crispy, fried, crunchy, tasty.  Defies description!

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Excellent!  We bid farewell to Minoau and her staff and make our way down to Bamboo, where Patrick is singing and Jes Ca (Ganh) is hostessing. She immediately makes me take my hair out of the pony tail (it was SO hot at Roadside) and we dance and sing to Patrick’s tunes.  We hang out for about an hour, then sadly (here is where I want to cry) take our leave, promising to be Facebook friends and wishing each other the best of luck.  Can we live here? No, probably not. But these are the types of friendships that make us want to try. 

Back at the condo, we hang out, “friending” Jes Ca, finishing the blog, and preparing for tomorrow when we will pack and fly for hours and days, really, to get back home after a wonderful trip exploring and experiencing Cambodia, Vietnam, the Philippines and Thailand. 

Friday, February 19, 2016

2/19–Elephant Park #4

Our final activity today is the mud bath.  We once again head across the fields to the far end of the park where the mud pit is located. Here another family, with yet another baby, is covering themselves in mud to cool off from the heat. The baby is right in the middle of things, laying down, rolling in the mud.  It is so fun to watch, although, you can’t get too close because they are flinging mud everywhere!

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Once cooled off, the elephants then get a snack.  Of course we are standing directly between the mud pit and the snack, so when they are finished, they head straight toward us to get to their food. 

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If you thought wet giants coming toward you was squeal inducing, muddy,wet giants will get you really squealing and moving fast! But once they have their food, they pretty much stay put munching away.

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Except of course, the baby!  He’s everywhere, and the guides are constantly saying “lookout,’' “watch out for the baby,” “here he comes again.”  Funny!

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Bath complete – we close out our time at the park with a visit to Mae Perm, the very first elephant Lek saved back in 1997.  Mae Perm was the inspiration for this whole park, and of course the other initiatives started since (parks in Chiang Rai, Cambodia, Myanmar and currently under construction in Phuket).

Mae Perm has adopted another elephant who came to the park much later, called Jokia, who is blind.  They are never apart. 

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Mae Perm is a sweet thing, so tranquil and easy to get close to and pet. She knows Goy and her voice, so she comes out of the river when she hears Goy call for her.  She plays with Goy and will raise her trunk on command, which surprises the Spanish girls the first time!

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Jokia follows Mae Perm out of the river, and we get to spend a little time with her.  Goy tells us her sad, sad story.  She was used for logging, and they continued to use her when she was pregnant.  The baby came early, while she was hauling logs up the mountains, and it got stuck in the sac.  Jokia tried to turn around to get the baby out, but the mahouts wouldn’t let her and made her continue to go up the mountain. She kept trying to get the baby out, but the mahouts got mad at her and shot her in the eyes with slingshots, blinding her.  The baby ended up dying, and Jokia became depressed. Then a mahout did something to her that made her angry and she swept him away with her trunk.  The mahout became enraged and shot one of her eyes out with a dart.  So she only has one eye, and it is completely blind. 

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The Spanish girls, who I am calling the elephant whisperers, are really affected by this story. You can just feel the compassion and love leaching out of them – and not just with Jokia, but with every one of the elephants we’ve visited. And the elephants know it, too.  They all take to them immediately.  It was really quite incredible to watch them together – we are so lucky to have such a great group!

As we bade farewell to Mae Perm and Jokia, we headed to the pavilion only to be met by the largest elephant of the park – whose name I have completely forgotten now!  She is 4.8 tons and was meandering down to the river as we approached and passed on our way to tea time in the pavilion.

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Back in the pavilion we are greeted with tea and punch – and sticky rice treats!  We love those things!  Plus little pirouette like cookies. Yum.  We have about 20 minutes to hang about, chatting, snacking and drinking, before loading into our van for the ride back into down.

Definitely a worthwhile thing to do – a great excursion, huge learning experience and wonderful day wandering at large with elephants.

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