The drive to Golden beach was, well, interesting. As per usual, down little winding roads that led us through villages and out to a promontory with a restaurant perched on a cliff looking out over the water – which was totally jam packed with locals filing in for brunch. Too bad we have our minds set on the Taverna Dougas in Arkoudi, a small village on a bay – or we’d stop here. But, intrepid travelers that we are – we push on, negotiating the winding downhill road past the huge guarded resorts until we reach the end – literally the end of the road – Golden beach.
It’s a beautiful beach – virtually empty except for one family and a few campers in the parking lot.
We bask in the sunshine for a bit – a very short bit – then head right back to the car to find the taverna. We’re hungry and it’s nigh on lunch time.
A short 15 minute drive finds us in the town of Arkoudi – famous for their thermal baths. We drive past some ruins – we’ll visit them after lunch – and past the thermal bath spa to the Dougas family inn and restaurant. Parking up on the curb close to the inn, we walk past a rather empty patio, and into the inn’s garden. We find the proprietor – Mr. Dougas? – on the patio and after inquiring if we want a room, we agree on just food, and he seats us on the delightful patio – which we have virtually to ourselves.
And so begins the gluttony. Oh my god. First we start with drinks – of course! We never got their names, but Mr. Dougas is totally Greek and speaks English, but haltingly. He asks about drinks – and I say wine of course – so he brings 1 carafe each of white and red - just to taste! Ay yi yi. We taste – all 3 of us – and of course I like the white, it is actually—and strangely--a good Retsina. Ed orders a beer and of course the bread is delivered – and from there – it is all just a glorious food fest.
Mr. Dougas takes our order – we want to try everything, but limit ourselves (we think) to the feta cheese appetizer and the fried zucchini. For mains, Ed orders the octopus (of course) and I choose the pork souvlaki. He wants to know how many souvlaki, small? Medium? Large? Oh no, small please. How about 5? Oh no, 3 please? Maybe 4? OK, 4. Oh, and then we throw in an order of Tzatziki. How can we not? I think we’re in trouble.
Mrs. Dougas – who is originally from Poland – comes over with our Tzatziki, which is to die for – the way Tzatziki should be, thick and creamy, chunky and garlicky (not at all like the way we make it at home – yuk!) and tells us about how much she loves it here. She’s lived all over and likes it here the best – although she does miss the seasons of Poland. But, as she says, she fell in love with the place, and then with the man. What to do?
What to do with the food is what we want to know! Mrs. Dougas says we’ll never forget this place….we are totally sure of that, and we’ve not even gotten past the Tzatziki.
We’re trying not to fill up on the bread, but that’s impossible with the Tzatziki. And then comes the cheese. Ed and I had this whole debate about whether Mr. Dougas understood we said feta and not potato, which was listed right above it on the menu. So when these little fried packets of love are delivered, we’re figuring they are potato croquettes – not even close – they are fried packets of the most incredibly sweet and salty and beautiful feta you have ever tasted.
Oh dear me – I’ll be in the gym for the rest of my life. And this is just the beginning. Next up – zucchini – which is the best, most delicately seasoned and fried zucchini we’ve ever had. Oh, and did I mention there is like a kilo on that plate. Uh huh.
Seriously good. So good in fact we have to ask how he does it, which turns out to be a light farina coating with lemon oil. Ahhhh, that explains it. These things are wonderful. I can stop here. Except we still have the octopus and the pork – and we’ve not even dented the Tzatziki. Sigh.
The main course arrives, and oh, what a course it was. Perfectly cooked octopus for Ed, so tender (and so huge – I had to take a picture with his hand by the plate to show the size), and the pork was equally fabulous. If only I could have taken 2 skewers back to the ship along with the left over Tzatziki , I’d be done for the day. Just leave me on the balcony, I’d be a happy soul munching my way through sail away.
So, we’ve had great meals, but this is one of the top. The food. The people. The setting and atmosphere. I’d come back here and stay for a few days just for the food. Forget the beach – I’d camp out here in the restaurant.
Thoroughly stuffed, to the gills, we reluctantly hand over our plates, apologizing for not finishing the Tzatziki, for which we definitely got a dirty look from Mrs. Dougas. We’re just hanging out, trying to digest, when here comes the Ouzo. Yikes! But, hey, when in Greece. So we thank our hosts, and since they’ve left us ice cubes to go along with our after lunch drink – we plop a cube in the Ouzo. Wow! The chemical reaction is crazy. We’ve never had ice with Ouzo, so had no idea that it emulsifies when ice (or water) is added. Cool.
Cool visual effects, but regardless, I’m not drinking that. No way Jose. I’m still sipping the last of my wine, and I’m a happy camper. Ed imbibes, but then, when Greek Coffee is offered, totally goes for that – so I figure what the heck. I’m all in. Greek coffee and lovely oranges/tangerines for dessert. Incredibly way to end an incredible lunch.
I don’t want to leave. Can’t we just stay here and eat ourselves to death? Please? Oh well, ok, I suppose we have to go back to the ship, but I’m very sad and hope we will come back here again to stay longer. It was that great of a day.
On our way back out of Arkoudi, we stop at the Roman bath ruins. A nice little park area with ruins, thermal springs and a path that we decide not to take.
It’s a nice little diversion, and if we come back, we’ll definitely hike the paths around here. But for now, it’s back to Katakalon and the ship for our final day at sea and Rome.
An hour driving with more incredible narrow city streets – which side should we be on?
– and then a few minutes later, empty roads –
