On our way to our next stop, Gunung Kawi, Wayan takes us through the small back roads to show us the real country.Wow – it is gorgeous back here.. Little almost one lane roads with houses crouching on either side of the lane, all with rice laid out front on tarps, drying in the sun.
There are temples – of course – and more rice fields. We stop at one temple along the way for photos – the temple itself was ornate and huge….
Wayan explains that all temples have steps up, a gate, then steps down into the temple. This is for two reasons 1) so you leave your troubles outside the temple gate, and 2) you already have your head lowered (to watch the steps) as you enter the temple, thus showing respect for the Gods.
The scenery back here is stunning and peaceful, with very little traffic, except for the ubiquitous scooters. Since there isn’t anyone out here on the roads, we get a chance to snap photos from the car along the way.
Further along we pass a school, where there are hundreds of scooters parked every where up and down the road. Apparently most kids have scooters once they are 10 years old, because it is the best way for them to get around and get to and from school. They obviously learn at an early age how to drive and navigate through these little twisty lanes and backroads. No wonder everyone is so confident riding around on these things! Its a right of passage from early on.
Finally we arrive at Gunung Kawi, one of Bali’s oldest and largest ancient monuments. Wayan gives us the scoop on how to avoid the sarong sellers, since we get rental sarongs included with our visit. And they do swarm you, that’s for sure, but in a nice way, and when you tell them no, they do tend to go away so it wasn’t really all that bad.
We get fitted for our sarongs, and get out tickets checked (15,000 IDR each this time – that’s a little over $1 USD!), and start down the 300 or so steps to the bottom of the river valley to view the monuments.
On the way we stop for the view – gorgeous green rice fields with terrace walls snaking through the valley below.And of course the rooster! Crowing for our attention. He got it!
Down, down we go, until at last we are on the floor of the valley, walking through the first set of candis (shrines) cut out of the rock face. These monuments are said to be memorials to members off the 11th Century ruling family of King Anak Wungsu. Legend has it that they were all carved in one night by the fingernails of the Kebo Iwa people. The shrines are still thought to be holy areas, thus the sarong, and while they look like they could be tombs, they do not contain any relics or human remains. This particular type of carving is unique to Bali and unknown any where else in the world.
The candis are truly amazing – carved by fingernails or not. They stand 8 meters high, sheltered in their rock face niches. The first set of 4 candis are allegedly dedicated to Anak Wungu’s chief concubines. Located on the western side of the sacred river Pakerisan, there is also a small pagoda temple located at their base for prayers and offerings.
It is so quiet an peaceful down here, like you are lost in the wilderness. We are lucky, there aren’t a lot of people here, so we can just soak in the spirituality of the shrines and the wilderness.
Crossing the bridge over the river, we get our first glimpse of the 5 other candis on the eastern bank of the river.
These carvings are most likely dedicated to King Udayana, his queen and their 3 sons. These candis stand alone in their rock cliff face, majestically towering over the river and next to the large temple structure in the valley.
There are 10 candis total here, but we never did see the 10th one. It is said to be back a ways from the major candis, and I totally forgot to ask Wayan about it. So we headed into the temple area proper, once again entering through the traditional gate and steps entrance.
The temple is pretty extensive with lots of different pagoda/offering areas. There is also an area to explore back by the rock face, but we have to take off our shoes and decide we don’t want the hassle of muddy feet this morning (yeah, I know, a little wussy, but walking around the rest of the monument looking at all the ornate carvings and architecture was just as satisfying to us).
Crossing the river once more, we stop for pictures before making the grueling hike back up those 300 or so stairs.
And grueling it is. It isn’t so much hot as it is humid, and by the time we make it to the top, we are drenched. Thank heavens we stopped to buy more water (at 5,000 IDR each – .36 USD cents – a total bargain). Back in the van, we bask in the AC as Wayan takes us off to the next stop in our little adventure – Goa Gajah – The Elephant Cave.
No comments:
Post a Comment