2/8–Hanoi day 1–Fine Arts Museum

We’re accomplished street crossers by now, so it was a simple task to get across to the Fine Arts Museum, housed in what was once the French Ministry of Information buildings. 

Inside, the museum meanders through 3 floors and two buildings, chock full of various eras of art, from prehistoric to 20th century, plus silk paintings and contemporary sculptures, along with special temporary exhibits. It’s a cornucopia of Vietnamese art from Folk to Fine, and we are eager to see it all.

We start out on the ground flour with art from the 11th to 19th century.  Most of the statues feature Buddha, but we really are intrigued by the Guan Yin, Goddess of compassion, statue with her thousand arms and thousand eyes.

 

The wood and stone carvings are amazing as well, with so much detail and craftsmanship, it is hard to think they were created so long ago with rudimentary tools.  Of course the more current (what the Vietnamese call the “renewal” period) artwork does sort of sneak in here.  The girl fighter with the rifle, while incredibly done, is definitely pushing the century designation.

 

Next up are the lacquer paintings, which are just so intricate and gorgeous. Of course, many of these paintings are “Renewal” period, and focus on the fighting that has encapsulated Vietnam for so long.  And while depictions of war aren’t exactly what you’d call “gorgeous,” the paintings themselves are still so beautiful and exquisitely crafted that it is hard not to categorize them as gorgeous in their own way.

The oil paintings on display are also amazing. Some are odder than others (the girl with the gas mask and dead fish is poignant and definitely gets the point across), but the family sleeping in the grass is probably one of our favorites.  The picture doesn’t do it justice, the way its been painted you can actually see the grass coming up over the family’s clothing, virtually see the indentation in the field where they lay.  Wow!

Part of the contemporary exhibit also contained these totally cool acrylic blocks encapsulating old Vietnamese stone gate architecture.  There were five in a row, all different colors, reflecting the light streaming in from a window at the end of the room.  A  really neat way to combine modern applied arts and traditional Vietnamese architecture.

Some of the last displays we passed were a variety of traditional mother-of-pearl inlaid cabinets that were timeless in their beauty. 

This was a great museum.  A fascinating study in the changing Vietnamese art techniques and styles over the years, and just an all around great way to spend and hour or two viewing some incredible talent. But, now, it’s after noon and we are ready for a lunch break. Fortunately, I know just the place…right down the street.