Right next door we go, to Wat May, as it is called, one of the largest Wats in Luang Prabang. We patiently wait for the group of tourists in front of us to figure out if they want to pay to get into the Wat, until one of the girls taking entrance fees sees us and waves us over. 20,000 Kip ($2.40 USD) later and we’re inside the complex before the others have even figured out what to do. Deep breath, going for my inner Zen. Sigh. At any rate, the temple is beautifully decorated with an enormous amount of gold and gold leaf. Just the walls and ceilings of the shaded patio area around the Wat entrance can leave you breathless.
Wat May is one of the most important Wats in the city because it was the home of the most senior monk in Laos, Pha Sangkharat (whose pictures surround the large Buddha statue below). It is also important because the Phabang was kept here for some 50 years before being moved to its new home in the Wat Ho next door. The opulence and elegance from outside continues in here, with the large golden Buddha and also an elegant small, emerald Buddha almost hidden behind one of the golden Buddha statues off to the side.
Outside, there are various Buddha statues and Stupas
– but of course the one thing that catches our eye is the sign for the bathroom. These translations just keep us smiling.
Next up, we head back down the main street in the direction of the hotel, looking for Wat Siphoutthabath. There is an entrance from the main street, down a little alleyway, but I miss that, so we walk around the block to the stairs right past the Icon Klub. This Wat is named for the Buddha footprint located above the temple on one of the paths to Mt. Phousi, but we’ve had enough climbing for one day, so we stay on the lower level enjoying the carvings and gold inlay on the pillars and doors of the Wat.
The temple grounds are quite large here, and there is a very large monastery, or at least a good number of living quarters for the Monks on the hillside rising up to Mt. Phousi. There are a lot of Monks around (more than we’ve ever seen, quite frankly), and today must be washing day – because everywhere we go – their orange Robes are hanging up to dry in the sun.
It’s getting on near lunch time, and our plans are to eat at the Bakery Cafe on the river, with a pit stop at the hotel, so we head in that direction, stopping first at Wat Phaphray, a sweet little temple tucked behind a tall white concrete fence on the busy cut through street from Sisavanvong to the River Road. It’s a little Oasis of paradise back here. Quiet and serene with an incredibly beautiful temple and still more Monk quarters. This temple is exquisite – all gold and red with colorful murals depicting scenes of village life all along the outside walls. There are also a series of stark white Stupas that contrast beautifully with the richly decorated temple exterior.
As we are leaving, we notice a couple Novice Monks doing something in the trees by their living quarters. We watch for a while as one of the Novitiates shimmies up a tree and grabs a mango on one of the branches. We’re entertained, but its all in a day’s work for them, we’re sure!
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