2/17–Luang Prabang– Lunch and Wat Xieng Thong

On to the Bakery Cafe for lunch. We had originally thought we’d have dinner here, but we’ve run out of time, so lunch it is. And it’s a lovely spot to have a bite to eat, in the shade, overlooking the river. 

We could never quite figure out where the kitchen was here. We assumed it was across the street, as it normally is in Italy or Greece.  But we soon figure out the kitchen is actually underneath the riverside patio.  And as we are waiting for our fried and fresh spring rolls to appear, we sit and watch the kitchen staff clean fish and cut down, clean and trim banana leaves for various menu items.  Lunch is excellent – just want we wanted, fairly light and relatively small (but still too much food!).

Oh well, we will definitely walk it off as we still have numerous Wats to visit this afternoon.  Our first stop after lunch is the famous Wat Xieng Thong at the very end of the Luang Prabang peninsula.  Wat Xieng Thong means “Temple of the Golden City” and is one of the most important symbols of royalty and religion to Laotians. The complex is spread throughout a large walled compound, containing Monk’s quarters, a meditation hall, multiple Stupas and most impressively, those colored glass mosaics that we couldn’t take pictures of in the Royal palace!  I’m making up for it here.

As soon as we enter, we pass by a stupa with some bizarre jester-like statue on top of the little temple in front.  Haven’t a clue what it is, it is so different from anything else we have seen in temple complexes across Asia.  Unfortunately there isn’t really anyone here to ask either, so the mystery will remain (even afterward when a Google search came up empty).

Goofy little circus ringmaster aside, the rest of the complex is a mix of gorgeous architecture in traditional Laotian style – Red and black enamel and gold filigree everywhere you look.

Walking into the Sim (the main ordination hall), the traditional Buddha statues are found, along with black and gold stencils and those incredible glass mosaics. Thank God we can take pictures!

The mosaics are even on the outside of the temples and some of the stupas as well. They are fascinating and so incredibly beautiful, particularly shimmering in the sunshine.

The last building we visit here is the Royal Funerary Carriage house where the 39 ft high gilded chariot that transported the remains of King Sisavang is displayed.  When you walk in the door, the Nagas on the front of the carriage literally leap out at you, as if they may swallow you whole - open mouth, fangs and all.  Creepy, but in an ornate and elaborate sort of way.

Exiting the Wat, we continue North, up and around the end of the peninsula to the other Bamboo bridge.  Here there is a lovely little park, filled with flowering shrubbery, nice benches and a wonderful view of the confluences of the Nam Khan and Mekong rivers.  We spend a bit of time here, resting in the shade and watching the river – and the monks who are crossing the bridge.

Now, continuing on our mission, we round the peninsula and head South, to what I’m now calling '”Wat Row.”