Another hot and humid day has dawned here in Vientiane. Our plans for today have completely changed, now that the Lao Museum has been moved. We had originally planned on just walking around town more and visiting the museum, but that’s out now. In our research though, we’ve stumbled upon a museum and memorial to President Kaysone Phomvihane, considered the founding father of Communist Laos. The awesome Lonely Planet guide app has some interesting review of the museum built in his honor, and the “memorial,” which is actually his home that has been preserved as is from the day he died in 1992. The new Lao Museum is actually right next door to the Kaysone Museum, so we’ve adjusted our plans to try to visit these 3 places – via taxi or tuk tuk – this morning.
We start out our day with our first cup of coffee in the room, while getting up to date on the world news, then head to breakfast on the patio. I’m still happy with my fruit, Ed with his eggs, but now he’s also added the Lani House home made yogurt, which he enjoys. Later, after we shower and get ready, we go downstairs to sullen boy to ask about finding a tuk tuk out to the Lao and Kaysone Museums. He is actually friendly this morning and tells us a taxi is much better, that we’ll need about 4 hours, and that he doesn’t think the Lao museum is open yet. We’re ok with that, as long as we can see the other museums, so he figures out an estimated price, which we thought was reasonable. We ask when a taxi can be there, and he says there is one there right now. Turns out this guy has just strolled in for breakfast or something, and he has a taxi, and we think he’s actually a friend of sullen boy and probably hangs out at the hotel waiting for a fare in the mornings.
A negotiation ensues – where to go, how to get there, they can’t believe we’ve already seen the Patuxai Monument – and we end up adding the Pha That Luang to our itinerary – because it is right on the way to the 6th KM. Bonus for us – we hadn’t considered going there because it is so far outside of town, so we’re happy to add this on to our touring today.
We’re ready to hit the road, so off we go, through the Wat next door to get to the car, and we’re on the road in no time. Our driver is very nice, and speaks some English, enough to get by with us, so we happily relax in the back of the car as he chauffeurs us out of town. It only takes 15 minutes or so before we arrive at the Pha That Luang – and once here we are really glad that we listened to the advice of sullen boy and driver man. It’s a phenomenally gorgeous golden Stupa that glows in the morning light!
The Pha That Luang has had a tortured history since it’s beginnings in the 1st C. Originally built as a Hindu temple to enshrine a breast bone of the Buddha, it was rebuilt as a Khmer temple, then again enhanced when King Setthathirat moved the capital of Laos from Luang Prabang to Vientiane in the mid 1500’s. It was destroyed during the invasion of 1828, then remained untouched until the French renovated 100 years later, once again being heavily damaged during the Franco-Thai war and finally reconstructed to it’s current state after WWII. Today it is the most important national monument in Laos, symbolizing both Buddhist religion and Laotian sovereignty.
There are some awesome wrought iron gates leading up to the interior that make for great photo opportunities. Not to mention photo opps for Ed too, in his matching shirt.
All around the perimeter of the Stupa are Buddha images and different odd statuary – oh and cats. In the rafters, watching every move as we explore the grounds.
Exiting the Stupa cloister, we think we are done and start walking toward Driver Man and his car (that he is polishing under the shade of a tree). He shoes us away and tells us to visit the Wat opposite the Stupa, “it’s beautiful,” he says. Ok. He’s the tour guide here. Once again, listen to the local driver guy – the Wat Luang Tai is a beautiful temple. The threes tiered roof temple is open on all sides, more like a patio than a traditional Wat, with ceilings painted with the most vibrant Buddhist frescoes. Every square inch is more colorful than the next.
Surrounding the Wat are smaller vibrantly painted and decorated offering pagodas and cleverly decorated green space, making it a very inviting place to spend time exploring and admiring.
We cross back through the wide expanse of the Pha That Luang entry way, noticing the crowds building up, and detour over to a smaller Wat That Luang Neua on the other side of the Stupa, because the architecture has intrigued us. Its very narrow design, beautiful soaring gold entry arch and oversized Buddha statues (which are almost caricatures – a theme we have noticed throughout Laos when it comes to frescoes and statuary) make a picturesque photo against the cloudless sky.
Thinking we are done, we head to the car and are once again shown to the remaining building, which is more of a palatial affair, standing elegantly at the front of the complex. This turns out to be the Hor Dhammasabha Buddhist convention hall, constructed in xxxx and opened to coincide with the 450th anniversary of the city of Vientiane. Inside is a large open hallway with a Buddha at one end (with those awesome human size candles I loved at Tawan’s Corner Bar and Bistro in Chiang Mai), beautiful bas relief window shutters and other ceremonial areas with religious objects. It’s all grand and beautiful and very expansive, in a quasi-religious-promotional way.
Now, we really are done! Hopping into Driver Man’s pristine car, we drive off into exurbia to the Kaysone Museum.
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