We actually slept well – and long – last night. We’re up a little before 7, surprisingly enough, and have enough time to just sort of sit and shake off the jet lag sleepy eyes before we head down to breakfast. Which is a pleasant surprise. We had read where it was only pastries and such, but there are eggs (which Ed says are very good) and lots of cheese and meats – yes pastries too, but also some really good wheat rolls and buns. We fortify ourselves for the day, freshen up and head out into the cold mist of the morning.
We hop the metro and are in town lickety split (ah, the joys of public transportation). Our plan is to explore the Jewish Quarter first, because there are “museums” (AKA synagogues) we can visit that are indoors, then as it warms up (relatively speaking) we can move onto the Old Town and explore there. A little glitch in the planning and we get off at the wrong Metro stop (Cathy had a different plan from Ed), but all is easily fixed by hopping back on the Metro to the next stop. Done!
It’s a quick walk to the museums – which encompass all the Jewish sites in the former ghetto. One combo ticket gains you entrance into 5 synagogues, the cemetery and the ceremonial hall. The history of Jews in Prague is similar to those around Europe. In the early centuries, they were allowed to live in this district because it was swamp/marsh and no one else wanted it. Eventually walled in, they survived by lending money (which was against Christian principles) and were considered outcasts and highly taxed. in the 1780s, the then emperor Josef II eased the discrimination (for economic reasons), tore down the walls and incorporated the district into the Old Town (the area is known as Josefov after the emperor). Of course with WWII, the 120,000 Jews living in the area were reduced to just 10,000, most being sent to camps or, if lucky, emigrating.
The museums provide a great history from early centuries onto WWII and then through the communist era. We start off in the Pinkas Synagogue, which has been around for 400 years. It is now a memorial to Nazi victims with the names of the 77,000+ Jews sent to the death chambers handwritten on the walls. The synagogue itself is beautiful in its simplicity, but the names inscribed and then re-written after the 1989 Velvet Revolution, are a sad reminder of the losses felt all over the European continent.
After the Pinkas, we move out into the Jewish cemetery. The only place where Jews were allowed to be buried, the tombs are piled atop one another due to limited space. This has made the tombstones settle over time and become crooked or simple fall down with age. There are over 12,000 tombstones in this little peaceful space between the synagogues. Which makes for intriguing photos and a somber walk through the lanes of the dead.
Next we visited the Ceremonial Hall, which has a very interesting exhibit on medicine and the burial traditions of the Jews. It is fascinating reading about how the Burial Committee operating, was held in high esteem and how they organized and coordinated all the funerals and burials. The exhibit included all sorts of paraphernalia, including the silver combs and nail cleaners that were used to after the bodies were washed.
The Klausen Synagogue held exhibits on the Jewish practices and holidays. A fabulous display of menoras, lots of mantels and silver pointers for the Torahs, and a variety of other displays that were all enlightening (yeah, I know, I really shouldn’t be saying that – I really should know these things!!!).
Next is the Old-New Synagogue which has been the most important synagogue for over 700 years in Prague. It is a block away from the rest of the complex, so as we walk there we take in the fabulous art deco and other architectural styles of the quarter.
We also run across a first for us: Kosher Pizza! How cool is that?
One of the oldest surviving synagogues in all of Europe, it was actually built by the Christians, because Jews weren’t allowed to build at the time. Part of the charm is the vaulting of the ceiling – the workers were also working on the St. Agnes Convent, and were installing 4 ribbed vaulting, but that looked like a cross, so they added a 5th rib – sort of off center – in all the vaults. Beyond that, the inside is as ornate as any shul I have ever seen. Gold and brocade and opulence, really interesting and different.
On the exterior walls, there are slits leading to vestibules around the exterior, which were added in the 18th Century so women could listen to the services. Wild!
Next we walk to the Maisel Synagogue which is even more ornate! This synagogue was built as private place of worship by the family that was the financier to the King, thus the opulence. It holds a history of Jews in Bohemia and Moravia. A good collection of historical notes, documents and slide shows. But we’re sort of done now, so we head back out, walk to the Spanish Synagogue, give it a cursory visit, then leave to head to the Old Town, a 5 minute walk away.
It’s all fascinating, and horrifying of course, and after a full morning (trying to wade our way through the tours and the crush of people) we are ready for some outdoor activity. And we get it, along with the tours and the crush of people!
We are going to the Old Town Hall to watch the clock strike the hour. It is, by far, the most over-rated tourist attraction in the city. I knew in advance it only lasted a few seconds, but, oh my gosh…the crowds. There were hundreds upon hundreds of people all standing there – for God knows how long – waiting for this little dumb show! We only waited 6 minutes, and then skeedaddled immediately after it was over in 30 seconds! But most of the crowd stood there, expecting more! That alone was worth going to see – really silly, but we guess a must in Old Town! LOL.
The square is gorgeous – but crowded. We could only get a few pictures worthwhile. The Jan Hus monument in the middle of the square is picturesque, monstrous, and sort of sets the stage for the entire area.
We only last a little while on the square, but before we abscond, we do stop to watch some street performers who are wholly different from any we have ever seen. So unique…
…all we can figure is that there is some superstructure they have built that wraps around each others’ bodies and runs up through that pole in between them. Really amazing, actually!
We stroll off around the square in search of a market about which I had read. A couple of wrong turns (its confusing in this darn town!) and we finally find it – but it’s mainly a souvenir market – not a food market. Bummer!
But we do find a decent restaurant for lunch. It was called Elephant something or other – and had elephants all over the place. Perfect for me! We sat inside – too cold outside – and had an excellent lunch – Ed had Cabbage soup that was delicious (cabbage and sausage and potatoes), then spicy sausage (they were out of the grilled sausage he wanted). I had fried goat cheese with raspberry jam and toast which was wonderful! Perfect for a light (sort of) lunch!
Afterward we wandered some more, killing time, looking at architecture waiting to arrive for our 3:30 bike and beer tour.
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