Today we are taking it slow – hanging out at the apartment in the morning (with our kettle coffee – yay!) and doing a little bit of laundry (sink laundry – drying by the radiator!). Our plans today are to get into town a bit later, then spend the day and have an early dinner down there. So we are in no rush.
We end up heading out to the bus around 10 – and there must be something going on, because it takes forever to come – normally they are only 6 minutes apart, this morning – more like 15. Whatever, we get on, the ticket validator doesn’t work (bonus) and we do find seats, but boy does it get crowded as we move toward town!
We are doing the Jewish Quarter first today – then heading to the House of Terror (the museum that details the Nazi and communist eras here in Budapest). We are doing our own walking tour of the Jewish Quarter and head to the Synagogue first. There are a couple of ticket options (all pretty pricey!!!), but decide to splurge and take the tour along with the synagogue entry – which turns out to be a very smart move.
This is the largest synagogue in Europe and the 2nd largest in the world (2nd to Emmanuel in NYC). And it is like no synagogue you (or I for that matter) have ever seen. It is moorish, ornate, has more opulence than, well, I don’t know what, and it totally and completely out of the realm of what I’d consider a synagogue or shul. And that’s just the outside!
The tour guide is fantastic – very interactive and informative. Sad I have to come to Hungary to learn about my religion, but so be it – it was very informative! As for this synagogue – it was designed by a goy (non-Jew) because he was the best architect in the era and came from Vienna. Thus, the religious aspects that were known to Jews at that time were not necessarily taken into consideration. There is an organ (which now for the reformed congregation isn’t an issue), but for the times was a “sin” because music was not allowed in the synagogue (because it was considered “work” and it was also what was lost when the temple of Jerusalem was destroyed). The synagogue is a rectangle – where the orthodox synagogues were square so the bimah (where the Torah is read) is in the middle of the area so all the congregation can here. There are pulpits on the side of the synagogue (totally Catholic). It was just mind blowing.
But the tour was an excellent learning experience. And we went outside to the cemetery which is highly unusual because cemeteries cannot be within the city limits or near a synagogue – but in this instance it is allowed because this was part of the Ghetto during the Nazi years and where so many people died. There was no place to move the dead bodies, so they left them here, and buried them in this area – thus the cemetery within the synagogue.
In the back garden there is the holocaust memorial – the weeping willow tree with names of those killed during the holocaust inscribed on every leaf. So moving. Over 600,000 Hungarian Jews were killed, leaving less than 200,000 Jews in the country.
We finished out our tour with the Museum where we viewed one of the oldest Torahs in existence. Plus lots of historical Judaic artifacts. Holy day paraphernalia, torah accouterments, Bris chairs, you name it. Incredibly interesting morning, time well spent.
There is a whole bunch more on the the Jewish Quarter walking tour, but we decide to ditch it. Because now, its time for lunch. We are heading up to the House of Terror, and stumble upon Grill and Chips – which is this cool little pub like place that is warm and comfy and right up our alley!
I choose the 4 cheese soup with cheese pita (perfect for this cold, gray day), Ed has the soup of the day – which is chicken and dumpling and vegetables and delicious, and we finish with the sausage – grill and chips! It’s the name of the place, so why not?
Perfect mid-day meal. Now we are off to terror!
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