We make it to Hana by 10:30. Not too shabby! It’s still the same cute little town that it’s always been, although there are a lot more road side stands and places to eat now. Used to be there was nothing out here and you always had to bring a picnic lunch (which we have today), but now, there are quite a few options. Maybe next time – or not! It’s much too fun to bring a picnic and eat somewhere pretty. Which is exactly what we plan to do when we reach the Haleakala National Park – Kipahulu on this side of the island.
But, before we reach the park, we take a little diversion down to Koki and Hamoa beach. There are some great rock outcroppings here and black sand beaches with fishing holes. Plus some good views back to the volcano and mountain range.
It’s a nice little side trip – and now we are off to the Park. Since Ed is a lifetime senior member of the national parks, we get in free (yay to being old!) and make our way to nice little picnic table under a tree by the water. We dig into our faux Cuban sandwiches (left over pork tenderloin slices, deli ham and cheese slices with mustard on wheat bread) and enjoy the soft breeze and beautiful scenery around us.
Now we are ready for our afternoon hike down to Ohe’o gulch (or the Seven Sacred pools – which is a made up name – there aren’t 7 pools and it isn’t sacred – but hey – that’s marketing for ya). The pools are closed for swimming due to rock slides, but that doesn’t affect us since we aren’t planning on going into the water. The path is well maintained with easy rock steps and clear footpaths. It’s only a .5 mile loop and a lovely way to walk off our food – and hours in the car.
The pools are gorgeous, formed from the lower falls and flowing out into the ocean. You can climb all over the upper edges, but the steps down to the pools is gated off because of the rocks. Still, we spend a bit of time exploring and snapping pictures of everything from the falls to the pools to the fig trees lining the paths.
We skip the more strenuous Makahiku Falls overlook trail, and climb back up to the car to begin our circumnavigation of the island. This is where the driving gets interesting. The road can be a little sketchy back here. Very narrow, one lane sometimes, no guard rails, just rocks painted white on the ocean side, lava rock cliffs/walls on the other, steep inclines and narrow little bridges with no rails on either side.
But it is amazing back here and so worth it. We’re even more alone here than on the early part of the Hana road. We don’t see cars or anything for long intervals. The scenery is amazing – miles of unadulterated coast line, wind swept beaches and just wilderness.
There’s nothing here – then all of a sudden there’s some guy on the side of the road with this elaborate coconut stand. It looked like Gilligan’s Island gone awry. A thatched hut with bamboo, coconut shells and signs everywhere, with the guy standing outside in his Hawaiian trunks and flip flops yelling coconuts at us as we drove by. I wish we could have stopped for a photo!
We press on through the winding, looping road, getting more views of the back side of Haleakala and the Kaupo gulch. The Makai side (ocean/coast line side) is fantastic, but the Mauka side (mountain side) is what fascinates me. The colors and contrasts are incredible, and I take way more pictures than I should – none of which can really express all the majesty of the scenery.
Finally, we make it to the Kaupo General Store. It’s the only thing out here for miles – and they are totally off the grid. The store itself needs repairs, so they owners have set up shop outside in a little hut along the road. They have basic snacks and drinks and some souvenirs, so we grab a bag of Maui chips and a cool pair of earrings (well, why not?) while we chat with the lady running the store.
Then we head off toward the upcountry side of the island, passing this cool Catholic church, St. Joseph’s that was built in 1862 and only holds services now if there is a 5th Sunday in the month. Makes for a great photo stop – out in the middle of nowhere, but, I mean really? Who is going to come out here for services?
Back on the road we wind our way along the now dirt road, that reminds us more of the Outback in Australia than Maui in Hawaii!
We drive through cow pastures and over numerous cattle grates, but fortunately don’t run into any wandering bovine (our nephew Colin warned us about the cows as he and Shannon had to avoid them when they drove the road a while ago). We do however pass some great turn outs where we can capture the stunning coastal and mountain views.
Eventually we pass Bully’s Burgers – a mere shack on the side of the road where the burgers are cooked on a gas grill and are made entirely of the grass fed beef from the ranches that surround the area. Too bad we’re aren’t hungry! Then it’s back to Maui Wines and the Ulupalakua Ranch store, and we’re back in civilization. Eight hours total from start to finish – and so well worth it. We’d do that again – but actually, might even just drive the back side of the road to Hana, then back again. If the urge strikes us again, that is!
And there is still more to come! Friday night is the Fourth Friday Kihei celebration at the shopping center, which turns out to be a great community event with music, crafts stalls and food trucks. We decide to eat up there, but then can’t decide on a Food truck – mostly because we don’t want to have to eat on the curb – but would rather sit down at a table with real utensils. So, we head over to the Vietnamese Cuisine restaurant where we’ve eaten before. Good, authentic Vietnamese, Ed has his Pho (which he’s been craving) and I have the special crispy fish with mahi.
Both are excellent, and the Pho is so huge, we end up taking left overs home with us. Great end to a really great day.
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