First stop: Revolution Square. This is the square where political rallies are held and where Fidel Castro speaks to the people. It’s a huge asphalt square – almost looks like a parking lot. It’s ringed with various government buildings adorned with images of famous Cuban heroes: Che Guevara with his Hasta la Victoria Siempre slogan (Until the everlasting victory, always) and Camilo Cienfuegos, another major Cuban Revolutionary hero.
On the other side of the square is the Jose Marti memorial – a 358 foot tall structure that, when completed in 1959 was the tallest in all of Cuba.
We get to spend 15 minutes or so here, stretching our legs, getting acclimated to the Cuban climate. And car watching! More 50’s Chevys, Fords and of course Russian Latas. Plus these great little “Coco” taxis (so named because they look like coconuts!
Back on the bus, we drive through the University area of Vedado and on into the old town of Habana (the Cuban spelling!). The university is the oldest in Cuba, founded in 1728, and one of the first in the Americas. There are 16 “colleges” with everything from Natural Sciences to Economic Sciences – and virtually everything in between (oh, and all the courses, books, even room/board are all free).
After winding through the pretty university area, our next stop is the Hamel Alley Community Art Project, where the artist, Salvador Gonzales, created a space to showcase African culture. Salvador is shown below (with Julie our local guide in the background).
Here, painting and sculptures use ordinary materials to display African beliefs, such as Santeria (the African/Caribbean religion that marries African worship of nature and Christian saints – known as orishas – that really coalesced in Cuba). There are some great murals on the walls, odd sculptures that probably had some meaning we missed as well as an interactive dance exhibition we were invited to watch.
We continued on with our old city tour, with a walk through the old town. We passed great architecture, horse drawn carriages and tons of people (from all over the globe, of course, just not so much from the US). The renovated areas of the city are just gorgeous – very much the Spanish colonial influence with Moorish features. You feel like you are in Barcelona or somewhere in the south of Spain.
We end our walk in the Plaza Vieja (the old plaza) where we have our first taste of Cuban food at a state restaurant called El Portal del Santo Angel Restaurant. It’s a great meal served outside on the patio – a welcome Mojito, then vegetable soup, shrimp and lobster skewers over rice and finished with helado (ice cream – of course! The Cubans LOVE their ice cream), all accompanied by a Cuban band serenading us as we eat. Music, music everywhere – that should be the Cuban motto!
Thus begins our indoctrination into the Cuban way of life – at least in terms of restaurants and food (and always music – or siempre musica!) So Cuban life and business: Basically, the State owns everything. Only recently has there been any private business allowed (mostly occurring in the last few years, since Raul Castro has become President of Cuba). Currently there are about 10% of all businesses that are private (more on that later). In terms of restaurants, there are three types: State run, Paladares and Association. State run restaurants are all government owned, employees work for the government for a standard wage and the food tends to be a little more basic, good, but not high cuisine. Also, allegedly, only State run restaurants can serve shrimp or lobster or premium beef as those items are set aside for export and State use only.
Palardares began in the 1990’s when the Government allowed private homes to be opened up as restaurants. Originally, Paladares were restricted to 12 seats or less, however, now that restriction has been lifted. Regardless, all Paladares retain the original ambience of tables situated within the chef’s actual home. You may be eating at a table in the living room, the dining room, or even the bedroom! As Paladares increased in popularity, they have become larger, and while still located in a private home, the homes may not necessarily still be inhabited by the owner and/or chef. The food here is typically better and more creative than the state run restaurants.
Association restaurants are a relatively new phenomenon in Cuba. Larger restaurants that are apparently part of groups (we’re still a little unclear about the exact business set up on these restaurants, but they are popping up more and more in Habana and have a growing reputation for better food at decent prices) that are taking Cuban cuisine to a new level. We’ll get to experience all 3 different types of restaurants on this trip – so we’ll be able to compare and contrast for yourself!
After lunch, we continue our walking tour of the old town, with a stop in Plaza San Francisco de Asis with a gorgeous old gothic church as well as some really interesting contemporary statues.
We continue our walk to the used book market, that wraps around the Plaza de Armas with the statue of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes (a Cuban sugar plantation owner who freed all his slaves in 1868 and thus began the ten years’ war – he is called the Padre de la Patria – or Father of the Country). It’s a beautiful square and a very interesting place to spend time wandering among the book vendors and soaking up the gorgeous weather and architecture.
Back on the bus, we head for our Habana hotel: The Hotel Telegrafo.
No comments:
Post a Comment