A seriously short bus ride from the top of the Alamar community is an oasis in green. The Vivero Organopónico Alamar is one of the most successful organic urban farms in Cuba – and it is literally right in the middle of the city. Steps away from the Alamar housing project with other high rise buildings and roadways surrounding the 4 hectare (9 acre) farm.
We are greeted by the president of the farm, Miguel Lopez, who is a retired Cuban government agricultural minister. He now runs the cooperative farm with about 140 people who work here and share the profits. The farm was created in 1997 more out of necessity than desire to be organic. With the collapse of the Soviet bloc, supplies were scarce and there was no more Russian fertilizer to be had. In order to grow produce, Cubans had to turn to other methods – thus the growing organic movement. The area where the farm is located was originally a dump, the land belonging to the government. The cooperative formed, and they began to clear the area and re-till the soil to make it viable for farming. There is still one area in the corner that Miguel refers to as “hell” – because it still isn’t suitable to farm.
The workers here get free breakfast and lunch, they have mani’s and pedi’s for the ladies, shifts are only 7 or 8 hours a day. They sell the produce to the Alamar neighbors just up the street at very fair prices in Cuban pesos. They also sell to the government for CUCs. Miguel, with Julie translating, gives us the overview of what they produce, where, how many, etc. The two of them are hysterical – they banter and argue back and forth like siblings! Julie actually calls him her dad sometimes, because they do act that way.
After the tour, we are all treated to a completely organic lunch. The vegetarians in the group are ecstatic – and the carnivores aren’t too disappointed either as there is pork here. Lunch is extremely good – Maggi says best meal so far! We’re all very please with the salad, tomatoes, green beans, red beans, rice, vegetable soup, pork, fried taro, eggplant spread, beets and fruit for dessert.
I’m so enthralled with the eggplant spread (I’m calling it Cuban Babaganoush), that I ask Julie if we can get the recipe. Which she does – and writes it down in my little notebook for me. It’s great – can’t wait to try it at home one day!
The boys bask in the sun while we wait for the recipe translation, and the bathroom (very grim) break…..
…before we head back into town and the crafts market!
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