Saturday, November 8, 2014

11/4 Brussels and Leuven

Wow – did we sleep!  Didn’t figure we would with the jet lag and all, so we didn’t set the alarm.  Oops.  We woke up at 8:50 and were scheduled to meet for breakfast at 9:00.  Talk about a rush!  We washed our faces, brushed our teeth and ran down stairs.  No showers first for us.  Argh! 

Breakfast was lovely, regardless – and we decided to change up plans and drive to Leuven – 30k away. Leuven has the largest and oldest university in what is called the “Low Countries”, Belgium, the Netherlands and parts of Germany.  The oldest Catholic University in existence is also located in Leuven. Needless to say – it’s a college town!!  Turns out it is a lovely old  historical city with incredibly beautiful architecture.  It is great for walking. and we did just that – starting out on the Stadhuis with St. Peter’s Church.  Incredible architecture, with one of the most ornate wood carved pulpits we have ever seen.

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We all took pictures on the stadhuis square…

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Then walked around and looked at the ornate Town Hall (Hotel D’Ville) with the myriads of highly detailed figures on the façade.

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There were other awesome buildings  as well.

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After a bit, we were all chilled to the bone, so we stopped in a local café for cappuccino and choccolino – which I thought meant chocolate cappuccino but in fact meant hot chocolate with whipped cream.  No matter – I wasn’t sending it back! Too good!

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After our coffee and chocolate fix, we navigated our way back to the car and back into Brussels.  Our next stop was Cantillon – one of the last remaining brewery to ferment beer completely naturally, using wild airborne yeasts to contaminate the wort and start the fermentation process.  They create a beer called Lambic, which can only be brewed in Brussels, as the river water is what gives it the special taste and name.  The final product is called Gueuze, a sour and slightly sweet beer that is typical to Belgium. 

Thee brewery itself is in an old section of town with little parking and old more run down buildings.  Matthias finds a close parking spot (excellent driving son of #1 driver!) and we proceed to the brewery through the huge, barn like doors.  Inside we have a self guided tour, but with an informative introduction from one of the brewery folks.  He’s passionate about the brewery and the beer – and has traveled all over visiting friends in breweries and tasting and comparing beers.  (But he’s not been to Asheville yet – so we told him that needs to be his next stop.)  We start the tour and see where the hops, barley and wheat are combined and mashed, the boilers and then the system that  pulls wort up to the attic to cool naturally over night in the cooling tun room.  It goes into what is called a “coolingship” where the natural yeasts from the air begin the fermentation – and then transferred to wood barrels previously used for wine or whisky.

It’s a great tour – really fun – you just take the little explanation booklet and tour on your own.  Nice to go at your own pace and read and learn along the way. The final step, of course, is the beer tasting!  We are all excited, because we’ve never had (or even heard of)Gueuze  before so it will be a fun experience.  Well, that’s what we thought.  But the beer was not so great. None of us really enjoyed the Gueuze or the Kreik (which is cherry beer, and something I really thought I would enjoy.  Ick.  No way. Didn’t even finish it – Ed got those honors!). 

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So – while fun – we weren’t happy with the icky beer.

We headed back to the hotel and it’s time for escargot!!!!  I had read a lot about this food shack (think food truck without the engine) that was right near the Bourse and served great escargot.  Named Jef et Fils, Jef has been doing this for 47 years and is sort of a bastion of escargot and roasted chestnuts in season.  He is also said to be a social worker, because he talks to all the homeless and down on their luck folks and gives them advice and support.  We were hoping we could find him – and what do you know – he was right outside the hotel – literally 1/2 block from the front door!

Yes!   We got 12 escargot for 5 Euro.  Awesome!  Matthias even tried one for the first time – he didn’t like it but at least he tried!  The sauce was fantastic – hot and spicy – good for the sinus and the throat(which is what the proprietor – not Jef – probably fils – pantomimed to me since he only spoke French!). Awesome!

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Next we went off to the grocery store for beer and wine (really great Chilean Sauv Blanc 3 for 7.5 Euros – can’t beat that!), then relaxed before heading to the executive lounge.

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