After the A4 debacle, we finally arrive at the Factory without further incident. And, we actually luck into a parking space right out front. Cool. We figure we’ll just run in – see what they say and if need be head on home. We are quite pleasantly surprised when there isn’t any problem at all purchasing tickets. I ask if they are for right now – and the ticket lady says 38. What? Oh – the cost – well – ok. Here you go.
We don’t know understand the website – maybe those were tours? – but we were pleased as punch to be able to get in on a spur of the moment. And even more so during the tour. Once again, the museum is incredibly well put together. It is a walk through time in Cracow – the old town, the relocation of the Jews to the Ghetto and then the factory and what Schindler did for his employees.
There are posters, video screens with interviews and recollections of the people living here, reconstructions. Similar to the uprising museum in Warsaw, Schindler’s Factory almost recreates Cracow of old – a photographer’s studio from 1939, cobblestone floors to depict the old streets, a complete tram station and tram interior, Nazi flags hung from buildings, a typical apartment, hair salon and café from the time period, even the gates to the Plaszow concentration camp, complete with pebbles on the ground around the fence. It is extraordinarily well done – and interspersed is the story specific to Schindler and how he saved the lives of over 1,000 Jews who worked for him in his enamel factory.
One of the best museums we have toured – and now of course – we want to read the book – and the real life story of Schindler who (from reading the panels in the museum) was a very complicated and interesting man.
It’s getting late once we are through, so we head back to the apartment – 5 minutes – we could walk – stuff the little car into the little garage slot and head home with our minds full of Cracow, the Nazi Occupation and Concentration Camps.
For dinner tonight, we choose Ziemianksa – a little restaurant we’ve walked past (with an outside sort of biergarden area that is way too cold to eat in). We are a little early for Polish eating standards, and are the only people in the place. Fine by us, it is small, quiet and intimate and we are in no rush. For starters, we get the pate on toasted crostini to share. It turns out to be amazing – you can’t tell where the pate ends and the toasted bread begins. It is light and creamy and a little crunchy on the edges. Yum.
Then for our mains – Ed has the pork knuckle. He’s been dying to try that – and it doesn’t disappoint. Sort of a cross between Pork Belly and braised pork shoulder, there is a delicious sauce and fabulous mashed potatoes (bad, bad, bad – I know – but oh so good!).
I have a Cracovian specialty, Maczanka krakowska. It says it is slices of chuck steak baked with slices of bun, red wine and onion. I figure baked with “bun” is some translation error – but no – as it turns out – it isn’t. This is a Cracovian Big Mac – it’s like a hamburger only better. The whole darn thing was soaked in this yummy brown gravy - bun and all – so that everything is juicy and succulent and tender as butter. I wasn’t really sure I’d be happy with this when I ordered it – boy was I wrong. Clean plate club tonight!
We waddle back home to rest our weary little bodies and watch the weather for tomorrow’s big day of exploring Old Cracow.
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