The trek to the Uprising Museum is definitely a long one. Google Maps says it’s 1.2 miles (which is obviously as the crow flies) – we say it is more like 2 miles. But, it isn’t a hard walk. All over Warsaw there are nice wide sidewalks and people walking everywhere. This walk is down a nice broad avenue with trees towering above the sidewalk. Not once did we have any problems walking around or finding our way, or felt unsafe (except for the roving bands of Polish boys – always in little groups – who tended to look more menacing than they actually were as they barely gave us a 2nd glance).
We arrived at the museum a little before 1PM and decided we need a break. We’ve been walking non-stop since 9 or so and we need a rest and sustenance. There was a cute little restaurant around the corner from the museum called Szynk. It’s cozy inside and the menu was quite reasonable. Ed got the sausage plate with awesome sausages (white and traditional kielbasa) as well as sauerkraut and fresh, fresh bread.. I got an amazing roast pork sandwich that I likened to a philly cheese steak – just without the steak and the cheese. J It was fantastic! And the presentation? Look at those pickles – fabulous.
Thus sated, we were ready for the Uprising museum.
Again – it’s Sunday – so it is free. We simply walked in and started the tour. And what a tour. 
It was a little confusing and we missed a couple of signs so we ended up doing some of the exhibits backwards, but overall – this was one of the best museums we’ve visited. Fabulous story boards tell the fascinating story of the Warsaw “Rising” which commenced on August 1, 1944 at 5PM. Poland has such a tortured history – partitioned and ruled by so many – during WWII they are torn apart by Germany and Russia. So, with Russia “egging” them on – the Polish government and existing “insurgents” develop a “war” plan. They are going to attack the Germans and take back the Western portion of the country – basically Warsaw west – what the Germans have conquered. The uprising is mostly the reason when Hitler reduced Warsaw to rubble – after this insurgency, he bombed the city out of existence - with impunity. This museum provides a detailed history on that effort - all chronological (which makes missing the signage a bit tough – but we still got it) and some of the best multi-media features we’ve seen. Plus the whole thing is tricked out like old war time Warsaw – there are even replica sewers you can walk through to simulate how the uprising participants hid and traveled around Warsaw (minus the real life sewage of course!).
Truly – this was a fantastic learning experience – we had read a lot about the uprising, but this level of detail and artifacts was fabulous. Plus we get a new perspective on just how divided Poland actually was – and what deceit was laid upon them from both East and West. The irony of the whole Uprising was that the masterminds and Military echelon that pulled it off were then imprisoned by the Russians when they took control – for “conspiring with the Germans”. Imagine.
We probably spent 2 hours in there winding our way around the displays, listening to/watching the stories unfold from survivors and news reels, looking at the guns, the weapons (including the darn Goliath Track Mine that blew up the church with the uprising fighters in it. It’s so small!!! It looks like a toy – a lethal toy.)
One of the best museum experiences we’ve ever had.
Then in the middle of the whole display – while you are pondering what it is like to live in Warsaw during the war, fighting the Germans, in the sewers, you come upon this little café in the back which is the cutest, sweetest thing with doily tablecloths and such a homey atmosphere – almost like eating in your Aunt’s kitchen. Talk about contrasts. It’s adorable, but we’re totally stuffed, we don’t even want coffee, so the only thing we get here are pictures.
Once we have completely exhausted ourselves inside, we walk out into the cloudy afternoon and walk through the little park at the back of the museum which boasts a Vietnam Veteran’s type memorial all with a list of all the insurgents who lost their lives fighting for their country. It is beautiful and poignant with ingenious photos superimposed on planters rising above the wall.
They have water/weatherproof notebooks placed strategically where you can look up a name and then find it on the wall. Truly a labor of love. And a lovely way to finish off our tour/experience.
A good 20 minute walk back to the hotel gives us time to ponder and reflect on all we have seen. What a beautiful city and such a tortured past. And what an amazing future they have here now – out of Communist control and into a Capitalist society, they are moving forward, recognizing their past, and celebrating the future.
After relaxing in the room (and did we need that!), we have our happy hour drink in the Panorama bar, then head out to a little restaurant we found in both Rick Steve’s book and TripAdvisor. A quick 10 minute walk brings us to Zgoda, a charming old world Polish restaurant on – yes, you guessed it – Zgoda street.
The atmosphere is typical Polish – close tables, dark lighting – and the food doesn’t disappoint. We get a salad bar with our meals which is the typical Polish salad – cole slaw type stuff, shredded beet salad, sauerkraut, shredded onion salad and the like. It’s all very good, but we don’t want to fill up. I’ve ordered Tongue! That age old dish that I haven’t had since who knows when! I remember Mom cooking the whole darn thing in a bit stock pot while I was growing up. This is just as delicious, but even more so because it is covered in this fabulous horseradish type creamy sauce. Yum. Ed gets pork covered in a thick mushroom gravy that is equally delicious. Oh, the food. We’ve not had a bad meal yet – and I don’t think we will!
It’s nice we have a 10 minute walk home – gets the food and the stomach juices circulating since we are full to almost bursting. We stumble into the room and retire – ready for our morning Polish driving adventure to Cracow.
No comments:
Post a Comment