After a full day, we were all in need of a rest! We headed off to find the Cultural Center to confirm ticket prices and hours, then to find the hotel. Along the way, we go turned around (thank you Mr. Bus Office man for giving us the wrong directions!!!) and headed way far up hill – PS maps aren’t the best in Aguas Calientes! Richard and Maggi split off, wanting to find either a drink or the hotel so they could rest. Cathy gave them the hotel coupons and moved the bag receipt to the passports (yeah, that’s a clue for later!!), then we headed back down the hill to the main square – finding the center easily enough and getting our bearings in town.
Aguas Calientes, sometimes called Machupicchu town, is a funny little ramshackle town built along the Rio Aguas Calientes where it meets the rushing Rio Vilcanota. Catering exclusively to tourists, every space available ion the north side of the Rio Aguas Calientes is a restaurant, mini market or souvenir shop. Hawkers stand outside their restaurant trying to tempt you with their menus and special deals (you can tell it’s the slow season – no one is sticking to the printed prices). On the other side of the river, the south side of town is more residential (read: local) and ends at Inka Terra – the largest hotel (and the poshest) in town. There isn’t’ a lot to do besides relax, shop at the stores or huge market set up around the train station, visit the hot springs for a dip or explore Inka Terra with their orchid farm and walking trails. Still, the town exudes a backpacker kind of charm that is really quite appealing.
Ed and Cathy found the Cultural Center easily enough (at the bottom of the hill they had just climbed!!) and confirmed opening times, etc. Heading back up to the hotel, they found Richard and Maggi sharing 2 for 1 beers and joined them at the “Lookout” restaurant. Sufficiently quenched (you’ll see I got to get in on that fun too!!!) we all headed up to the Inti Inn to reclaim our baggage and check into our rooms. (This is where the ticket comes in! Being the obsessive compulsive person that she is, Cathy went nuts trying to find the stupid baggage claim ticket. She knew she originally put it in the hotel voucher binder, but moved it and couldn’t find it anywhere. Smart Bleaders will remember it’s in the passports, but those were at the front desk during this little ticket panic. Of course, they didn’t need them – the porter already had the bag and was just going to give it to them, regardless of the ticket – but it was an interesting little panic attack there in the lobby! Time for a refreshing shower and BIG glass of wine I say!)
The Inti Inn, located on the main pedestrian drag of Pachacuteq is small and charming, but not exactly quiet! Virtually all the rooms are centered around the staircase, so early and late comings and goings are easily heard and can be bothersome. The rooms are small, but sparkling clean and efficient –with the BEST bed since the Marriott! A cute little pizzeria is located downstairs, with “a bar” that is really only a counter where you can order beer or wine and take it to a table! Very accommodating service and reception – for the price – it was fantastic.
After the long day in Machu Picchu, the fearless travelers decided to meet of drinks at 7:30 then head out to find dinner. Ed and Cathy were ready early (what a surprise!) and they went off to explore a bit. On the way up the hill form the hotel, they found a cute little place called “the Sexy Cafe”. Inviting sets of armchairs sitting outside the café called to them,. They sat for a drink, watching two little 6 or 7 year old boys play with a water bottle and listening to the river rushing down the hill a few yard away. (Cathy ordered wine of course, and after a few minutes, one of the girls who worked in the cafe went running down the street. A couple minutes later, here she comes back up the street with a bottle in a brown paper bag! Obviously there was no wine and she had to go buy it! Too funny!!! Turned out to be quite good – and quite a good pour!!)
After their drinks and the complimentary popcorn (I’m liking this place!!!), they headed back to the hotel to pick up Maggi and Richard. Now off to find dinner! We all journeyed back down the hill to the main square, looking at menus as we went. When we approached the end of the square, we were accosted by 2 restaurant hawkers. Both restaurants had 2nd floors which looked really neat, so Ed haggled with one of them (Valle Sagrada) and managed to get free wine, beer and 18 Sole meals for each of us! (anything we wanted on the menu except cuy was 18 soles – what a deal!). Like I said, you can sure tell it’s not high season! The Valle Sadgrado turned out to be an excellent choice, not only for the food (Trucha for Maggi, Alpaca for everyone else) but also the atmosphere. First of all, we swore that they were cooking all the food upstairs in an apartment because family members (including a young girl with a baby on her hip) kept coming and going from the 3rd floor, most of the times with food. Then Maggi and Richard became enamored with a cat that was laying on a light on the roof opposite us. Richard began taking picture after picture at Maggi’s behest. Then Ed started helping with the pictures. When Richard realized he could get a better picture from the bathroom, both he and Ed went in to get ht shot, leaving Maggi and Cathy in hysterics in the restaurant. More wine and beer, more laughs, and pictures. The total bill was 161 Soles or about $54 US. Can’t beat it!
We walked back up the Avenue Pachacuteq to the Sexy Café for an after dinner drink. Sat inside on two futon type sofas for more canguil – and a pathetic attempt at chess. American Rock still playing, open air breeze through the café (but not too cold); good wine, beer and company. An excellent way to end a spectacular day in Machu Picchu.
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