Since Ed and Cathy are early risers, isn’t wasn’t an issue – although they did hope Maggi and Richard were able to sleep through the racket. After a good breakfast – great selection of meats, cheese, pastries, eggs, etc., they checked email, said good morning to Maggi and Richard as they headed to breakfast – then hit the streets of Aguas Calientes. Our original plans to climb Huayana Picchu were ditched for 2 reasons – 1) the cost, and 2) the weather. No sense spending about $100 USD to get up there and see nothing! So we explored the teeny Aguas Calientes town. Cappuccino at a café on the railroad track; explored shops, sat in the Plazas de Armas soaking up the sun that had broken through the clouds and watched the butterflies that were everywhere – fluttering merrily along the streets and through the whole town. We also watched the day trippers roil in for Machu Picchu. Once the trains were in, we hit the market for some cute souvenirs. From the market, we headed out through the residential section of agues Calientes to Inka Terra. This is a huge hotel resort with hiking tails, butterflies and an orchid farm. It’s gated, so in order to get in, you have to be a guest or tell them you want to go to the restaurant. We chose to just take pictures of the rushing river waters from the bridge leading to Inka Terra. We found out later that Maggi and Richard went in and hiked the trails to a stone at the top of the hill that had spiritual significance (of which escapes me right now, but Maggi knew the whole story at the time!!).
Later, back in town, as we wandered around, we stumbled on a local market filled with gorgeous produce and vendors in native dress selling street food. And, lo and behold, inside on the far wall of the market were a couple of clothing stalls with……bras!!!! Of all things!!! Cathy ended up snagging one for $4 USD! It even had exchangeable straps! Wardrobe malfunction solved! Thank heavens – no more exercise bra – while it was very comfy, it wasn’t exactly the look Cathy was going for! This bra wasn’t a perfect fit (trying it on on top of her clothing was a hoot! But it was better than nothing – so in the bag it went!).
Wandering back up Pachacuteq, we stumbled into a fabulous little jewelry store. The nicest owner – he studied the jewelry craft in Cusco then came back here to make his living. His sister lives in the US. We bought a great shaman charm for Stephanie and Huayruros seed earrings for Cathy. The seeds represent good luck. He also gave us 2 Cusco cross necklaces for coming in. Wish we would have gotten his name and the name of the store – which we thought was printed on the explanation of the Cusco cross – but unfortunately was not! Geez!
Lunch time rolled around and the restaurant hawkers are out. At Dulce Gourmet, Carla, the greeter, sold Ed on a 20% discount. She was precious, great personality and turned out to be the right move. Sitting outside, we had asparagus soup and vegetable soup (both handmade to order), then shared a Relleno with Pollo (a monster zucchini stuffed with cheese and chicken). It was an excellent meal. The inside of the restaurant was decorated in an over the top jungle motif. A cute little surprise when we went in to use the facilities.
As we ate, we watched more garbage collectors. There’s obviously a fleet of government paid street cleaners – all in green aprons with gas masks!!! – who cruise the streets looking for trash. It’s no wonder the place is so clean. We also watched the street vendor trade as traditionally dressed women walked up and down the street selling food to the restaurant workers. Once woman had those monstrous corn cobs, another flowers, yet another some ice cream in little cups. Great local atmosphere in the middle of tourist town!
Back at the Inti Inn, Cathy changed into her new undergarment and we all met up with Maggi and Richard. The hotel will deliver our bags to the station, but we choose to take them ourselves (we have a little bit of luggage separation anxiety now). We’re way early for the train – so we hang out (inside and outside the station). Boys have beer, Maggi and Cathy wait for the train, because here again, there are no glasses of wine, only bottles and they don’t want to buy a whole bottle, knowing they will on the train. Lines start forming early, we figure the last one on strategy will work since it’s all reserved seating, and hit the train at 3:20. We’re all sitting together this time, so it’s easier for Maggi and Cathy to shard the bottle of wine while we all watch the spectacular scenery rush by.
Virtually everyone on the train gets off at Ollantaymbo – so we all spread out for the reminder of the trip. We get off in Poros, which saves us an hour of switchbacks on the train, and will get us back to Cusco by 7 pm. Alan is of course, right there waiting for us. As we head through Poros to Cusco, we watch as a storm rolls in from the mountains. Lighting and thunder like you’ve never heard, the n a deluge of rain and sleet! By the time we get back to the San Agustin hotel, the sleet was a ½ inch thick in places and the rain kept coming. We had asked Alan for restaurant recommendations, but ended up going to Panaka again since it was right across the street. We loved our lunch there and figured we’d love dinner too.
We ran through the rain and sleet to the courtyard of Panaka – the doors were shut tight and we had a moment of panic thinking they were closed, but our waitress from our previous visit was right there - she unlocked (yes – unlocked!!) the doors and showed us in. We were the only people there again – they had to turn on the space heater for us! Once again – fantastic food (not that we can remember what we had – but it was all good!). Other diners came in later, so we didn’t feel as bad. Back to the San Agustin for a last drink at the bar and then up to bed for a hopefully good night’s sleep.
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