Sunday, April 6, 2008

3/4 Lima to Cusco

Well, it’s morning. Not much sleep but we’re up and ready to head to the airport. A quick very odd breakfast (just beverages and sandwich roll looking bread, nothing else), and we wait with our luggage downstairs. Since we’re only going for 4 days, we’ve left our big bags here at the Manhattan and will pick them up when we return on Friday.

At precisely 6:45 a big old bus rolls up – and here comes our tour guide – we hop on the bus (it’s huge!!! For just us – that’s it – no one else – too funny), and off we go to the airport. It’s much quieter there this morning than last night. We trudge over to the Lan counter and try to get boarding passes from the electronic machines. No go.

We’re in line to wait for a desk agent when we spy the departures/arrivals board. Every Cusco flight is either late or cancelled. Ah darn! Weather is just dogging us (pardon the pun!) on this trip. It’s typically bad in Cusco in the mornings and the evenings, but we were hoping to avoid any potential delays. If it gets too bad, and we can’t get in today, it messes up the entire Machu Picchu trip. Ack!

After standing in line forever (turns out the computers were really, really slow), we finally get our boarding passes and check our luggage. No word on our fights, so we go through security and around to the gates. Well, we’ve found the crowds! The ticketing area may have been quiet, but that’s because all the people are down here waiting for those delayed and cancelled flights! It’s packed – and it’s hot!

We all trooped back upstairs to find coffee and actually snagged seats at the coffee café, trying not to moan about our weather luck. Fortunately, the weather cleared and all of a sudden ALL the flights were called to board. It was a mad house with about 4 Cusco flights all going at once. We managed to board our plane, take off and arrive in Cusco only 15 minutes late. Bravo!

The flight over to Cusco was smooth and the scenery tremendous. Flying through the Andes was spectacular when the clouds cleared. Huge peaks covered in snow, beautiful valleys. Then circling and landing in Cusco – just a narrow valley in the middle of the Andes– much less developed than Quito – but similar in the airport approach and landing.

The airport was a mini madhouse because all 4 flights came in at once. We collected our bags and headed out into the bedlam. We see an Enjoy Peru sign – but then lost it. Wandered out of the airport proper and searched the parking lot but couldn’t find the sign again. Finally, after about 5 minutes, Alan, our guide in Cusco, came back and found us. He had picked up another group, taken them to the van, then came back for us.

No problem! In the van we go – and off into Cusco. Driving from the airport we see all sorts of local life and architecture. There is a large market near the airport, but it’s not exactly in the tourist part of the town, so we know we won’t be going back there. Which is a bummer, because it looks like something that could be fun – or dangerous – take your pick! It’s another quick ride into town. Alan deposits us at the San Agustin hotel with instructions to wait for him in the lobby. He has to check in another group at another hotel, then come back for us. We fill out our paperwork for the hotel, have coca tea (because now we are REALLY high up there in the altitude) and wait for Alan. The hotel is very nice, with a bar (where we are waiting), full restaurant, great little sunken lobby area with a fireplace and comfy round sofa seating, and free internet.

Alan arrives back, explains our schedule, tells us to take it easy this morning to get acclimated to the altitude and to meet back in the lobby at 2 for our city tour. He recommends a little restaurant across the street called Panaka for lunch. We all settle into our rooms – on the 3rd floor – but really the 4th because we have to take the elevator to 3 then walk up a slightly sloping stair case to our rooms. Really cute little place!

Back on the streets, we head to Panaka. It’s located way in the back of a courtyard – you really have to look for it. There are signs for a pizza restaurant and a nightclub that can confuse you! It’s an adorable place with a very high skylight covered ceiling. Oddly morose and macabre statues line the back wall, which is rough stone. Other than that, it’s bright and cheery with traditional tablecloths and runners, and the staff is incredibly friendly. We aren’t very hungry, and we’ve been told to eat light, so we all get soups – which are individually made for us. The drinks come with their own little individual table – they set the table down next to us and leave the drink bottles (water, wine, etc.) on it! We also have traditional Cusco bread – all of which is excellent!

We arrive at the hotel with time to hit the powder room and loiter around outside waiting for the tour where we see a vast array of street life. Richard gets his picture taken with two women and their llama! Cathy snaps a great picture of a man walking down the street with fox skins on his back. Wow! Back inside the lobby, on the walls, there are signs telling you where to stand for an earthquake – as well as a great sign with hands covering a face – see no evil? I don’t know…but it was cool enough to take a picture!

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