As mentioned, we are all a little slow moving this morning. Breakfast is welcome, the greasier the better. LOL. And fortunately, we don’t have to get up and out too early this morning. Today we are touring the Durbar Square in Patan city, the last city in the triumvirate that made up the old Kathmandu valley. Today has also dawned grey and wet….and freezing cold. Just what we all need to wake us up, a jolt of freezing rain whipping around our heads. Ah well, we really can’t complain about the weather since we had it so good in India (Bhanu has reminded us several times that we were so lucky the day we went to the Taj Mahal because the tours after us couldn’t see anything the fog was so thick).
But….we will complain just a little bit today. We are escorted to the bus by the security guards and the guides, all sporting umbrellas to keep us from getting drenched first thing out. It is lovely, and makes you feel quite spoiled, because when we get to Patan, it’s every man for themselves with an umbrella. The first part of our tour consists of walking through the town, which would have been lovely had it not been for the pouring rain and freezing temperatures. Passing through a vibrantly painted arched entry gate, we enter the city, ambling through virtually empty streets, glimpsing the traditional red brick and carved wood architecture from under our umbrellas. There are some great temples and shrines, all decked out with candles, the red wax placed strategically on the statues of the gods and lots and lots of beautifully bronzed prayer wheels (I am now officially regretting that we didn’t buy this prayer wheel wall hanging I saw the other day). There is a man made lake with a stupa at one end, a brightly painted little shrine with mice running in and out stealing crumbs from the offerings, a bull (Shiva) surrounded by more prayer wheels, some great murals painted on walls in a few of the alleys we traverse, a water well, a huge black Buddha statue and more temples along our miserable walk. (A one point in time Bill actually asks Sangeeta how long it will be until we are back on the bus. For Bill to ask just indicates how miserable we all are! Oh, the answer is “not for a while.” Sigh.)
Actually, after a while, the rain starts to let up as we arrive at the Golden Temple. And good thing, because this temple is probably the highlight of the tour. It is a Buddhist monastery, built in the early 1400’s which gets it name from the gold plating/sheathing that is everywhere in the interior courtyard and roof. There is a covered portico type walkway all around the courtyard with a large shrine in the middle and a smaller one at one end, where people are giving offerings. The walkway railings are adorned with statues, some of which are monkeys making offerings of jackfruit. Right up my alley! There are huge elephant statues guarding the entry as well as prayer wheels set into the portico railings. And, just as we are about the leave, the sun actually tries to peak out, reflecting off the golden roof and prayer flags, dazzling us all as we mill about the courtyard.
We have actually come into the temple from the back entrance, and exit through the main entrance with the huge Lions protecting the entry. Now it is on to the heart of Patan Durbar square, with its myriad of temples and earthquake damaged structures. Sangeeta was actually right here in the square when the earthquake occurred. She had a private tour of 2 people, and they immediately just sat down on the square to try to avoid being hurt from all the falling debris. Pretty scary!
Sangeeta distributes our tickets, in the form of little paper badges on black nylon rope that we hang around our necks (along with the whisper and our Gate 1 name badges – that we have now officially put in our suitcases – everyone knows who we are by now and we hate being branded!). Then we go across the street to climb up these incredible steep uneven stone stairs (that we gained access to by hopping across a very deep puddle of water onto one little stone, then hopping up onto the first stair) so we can have a “bird’s eye view” of the whole square complex. Meh. I will totally admit that at this point, we are all getting a little cranky and tired of the water, the cold and the view that isn’t all that great – especially due to the extensive damage that is still being repaired from the earthquake years ago. (I told you there would be a little whining today!)
Back down on the ground, we proceed to explore the Durbar square, popping into courtyards with wonderful carvings, interesting pagodas, woodwork, goldwork and a fantastic water well with marble pillars and ornate carvings surrounding the main water spout. The rain has stopped, and our moods are improving as we wander in and out of all these historic religious locations. Our last stop is a little museum, which has some great exhibits on the history of Patan, the Gods and the erotic statues and carvings all around. There are also some gorgeous Buddha statues and really informative displays explaining Buddhism, the Buddha’s hand poses and the differences in the stupa architecture. All of which we have taken pictures to study in the future.
Then its a bum’s rush back to the bus, walking really quickly through really busy streets to finally board the bus for the last ride back to the hotel where we freshen up, put our luggage outside, then hop back on the bus for the airport. Phew! That was a morning!
On the way to the airport, we manage to snap some shots of the Richmond Food Cafe – yes, right here in Kathmandu! Maggi and Richard feel right at home! Then its the Bhanu organization show, tickets in hands, bags checked, we make our way through security and immigration and head to the lounge where we snack and drink until flight time. We are lucky this flight, and end up on the side of the plane where we can see the Himalayas as we fly out. I have a window seat, but unfortunately it is the one without a window! Come on! But, Gretchen is in the seat in front of me, so we have a pact that we will share that window (and I try to be only a tad annoying, sticking my camera in her face to get a picture). It all works out in the end, with Cindy’s middle seat help telling me when to snap the shutter! Teamwork!
Landing in Delhi, we all head to immigration together, but we split up at the “sticker” visa vs. E-Visa lines. And this time, it is the “sticker” line that is a nightmare. We have arrived behind a flight from the Arab Emirates, I think, and there are TONS of people in front of me. And to add insult to injury, they are all taking TONS of time to get through immigration. Oh my God! The E-Visa line whips through, while I slowly inch my way around the Disney-esque line. It’s late already, and we are due at the hotel for our farewell dinner, and I am almost having a panic attack standing in that line for so long. It takes me over an hour to finally get through. In the meantime, everyone is waiting for me in the baggage claim area, where Ed keeps trying to convince them all to just go to the hotel and start dinner, he will wait for me and we will take an Uber. That’s not happening – of course – no WAY Bhanu would allow that – so they patiently wait for me, and I’m already feeling so guilty it’s not even funny! When I finally get to the passport control guy, and he asks me if I am traveling with a group – I say yes, there are 12 of us. Then he looks at the screen and asks where Ed is – and I tell him he had an e-Visa and went through the line ages ago and is waiting with the rest of our group for me in baggage claim. Sweetly of course. He just sort of looked at me with pity, and stamped my passport and shuffled me on. Geez! That was the pits!
I finally make it back to the group with a big sigh of relief, and we finally make it to the hotel a little after 8. It is so late, none of us even bother going to our rooms first before having our farewell dinner. It’s a lovely evening, once the agony of passport control wears off, and we all promise to keep in touch as we go our separate ways for the first time in just about 3 weeks. No more wake up calls, bags out, or Bhanu on the whisperer. This will take some getting used to, I think!
Maggi, Richard and Ed and I retire to the bar, that is far too loud to sit in, so we further retire to the outside patio where we can at least hear ourselves think over our last drink of the evening. Wow, tomorrow is our last day together. None of us can believe it has gone by so fast. But, we’ll make the most of our last day together – it’s not done yet!
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