Ok – so – if you aren’t as big a Bob Seger fan as I am, you won’t know that song – so here it is, courtesy of YouTube!
It is another very early morning – even earlier than Udaipur. Once again we get boxes of food that we share with our bus driver and assistant as we make our way through the darkness to the airport. Half an hour later, we are deposited in front of the international terminal at Mumbai which is quite beautiful with palm tree like white pillars, all glowing in the darkness. Bhanu takes over again, organizing, collecting passports and luggage. Once our boarding passes are handed out, the 4 of us abscond to the Priority lounge to hang out until our flight. On the way, though, eagle eye Maggi spies wine in the duty free shop. Hey, we don’t have Sanjay anymore, so we both decide to buy a couple bottles (at a really decent price btw) so we won’t have to worry about traipsing around Kathmandu looking for decent wine. Then its up to the lounge, where unfortunately, it’s a bit too early for alcohol (it’s not even 6am for pete’s sake!), so we avail ourselves of the coffee and breakfast foods, while we munch on the remains of our box breakfast from the hotel.
Around flight time, we abandon our perch and head back downstairs to the departure gates with the rest of the group to wait for the flight. I think the flight might have been delayed. The flight is almost 3 hours, so we have time to read, relax, sleep!, and generally just hang out – until we get to the Himalayas that is. Then it’s noses to the windows, cameras out and picture snapping heaven for at least 30 minutes. Snow capped peaks, gently sloping hills – and we’re not even on the good side! I could just stare out the window at scenes like that forever. But alas, we must land, so down we come, skirting over densely packed houses and buildings, crammed up against each other and the airport perimeter. I don’t know what I expected, but it was not this density! Or this piggly-wiggly building style. It looks like a miniature Mumbai with all the people and the crowding of the buildings. Totally unexpected.
The landing is smooth, we all disembark and head to passport control. The 4 of us had already applied for our Visa, so we just went straight to the Visa line, paid our fee then went right through customs. Everyone else had to get the visa paperwork at the airport and fill it out there, which took a lot more time. Bhanu went through quickly, of course, and he pointed us in the direction of the security check and baggage claim (security? odd). And it was odd – we put our bags through the scanner (no lap top or electronics or liquids out), walked through the people scanner, but it didn’t matter what we had, even if we beeped, we walked straight through, and then came out into the baggage claim area. Weird – but when in Rome….
Since we were the first out, we grabbed our bags and waited, and waited, and waited. It took forever for everyone to get through, so, we became the defacto organizers, grabbing bags and putting them together for the porters. After a while we went outside so Maggi could smoke and so we could tell our local guide – Sangeeta (yes, another Sangeeta, but as it turns out, a far better guide than our Mumbai Sangeeta) that we were here and just coming through security. As with most these airports, it is teeming with people which is a little overwhelming when you are sort of punch drunk from lack of sleep. We find a little corner all to our own to wait for the rest of the group, leaving our bags with Richard and Maggi while we go to find an ATM. We find it, but it doesn’t work – at least not for us or another girl who tries right after us. Oh well, no rush, we're sure to find another one somewhere.
Back with Sangeeta and Maggi and Richard, we wait. And wait. Finally, we see everyone parading out the exit and we duly follow Sangeeta to meet the bus. We had hoped to do some touring today, but by the time we are all arranged and settled, it is too late to get anything in, so we head directly to the hotel, with Sangeeta narrating on the way. She points out colorfully clad women explaining that these are traditional outfits that many women wear, and that those dressed in red are married. Every married woman wears something red, Sangeeta, while in Western wear, has a red necklace that signifies she is married. As we roll through the crowded streets that look more like India than I expected, Sangeeta explains that all this area used to be farmland, and that as the population grew and more people came to Kathmandu in search of work to earn a living, the farmland started disappearing and buildings appeared in its wake. Again, I’m not sure why I’m surprised. Maybe I thought there would be more wilderness – I mean the Himalayas! Mt. Everest! – but there isn’t much green around here – just endless streets, people, buildings and city. Not to say that is bad, there is definitely more to look at as we navigate the streets heading into town to the Shambala. There aren’t any tuk tuks here though – which I guess isn’t surprising since it gets really cold here and there is so much dust. It is everywhere – we even have masks on the bus that Sangeeta says we can take anytime we get off the bus if we want.
Arriving at the hotel, we go through our now normal routine, get our keys and head up to the rooms. We have rooms right next to each other on the 6th floor – both of which have good views down the main street looking toward the city. After our luggage arrives and we are settled, we strike out in search of Thamel, the local market streets and backpacker area. We have the whole afternoon and evening to ourselves, so we are off to see what we can see! First, Ed and I go outside looking for an ATM. We find one right next door, which goes through the whole process, but then keeps saying processing, even though we hear the money being counted behind the “server” door. Then the thing times out. Weird. I go into the bank next door to tell the girl there, but she says there is nothing she can do, that it should be working. I try to explain that the money was processed, just not given, and she tries to tell me that it is my card and that they don’t take Visa. Yeah, I call BS on that – since the Visa logo is plastered all over the doors. Crap. Onward, up the street we go to the next ATM which works perfectly, then across the street to the liquor shop for beer for Ed and we’re back in a jiffy, ready to explore with Maggi & Richard.
Bhanu has given us a landmark – the Fire and Ice Pizza restaurant, which is located right at the beginning of the commercial district. We call an Uber, and off we go through the crowded streets of Kathmandu. Our driver is funny, he’s talking and yelling to all the other drivers, saying what? Who knows. He sounds happy enough, but just funny talking to them all. Then he proceeds to give us a little nickel tour, pointing out all the embassies on the street (US included), the president’s house, the hospital and of course the casino. A sweet little tour. He drops us off at the restaurant – and we delve into the world of Thamel. We are in the market for earrings (of course, always earrings!), but this time also as gifts for Maggi to bring home, prayer flags (another gift) and any little general thing we can find. We run into Charlie and Cindy who are returning from their shopping spree and share ideas and locations of some of the interesting things Cindy found (she is the ultimate shopper! We could just follow her everywhere and be done with shopping forever!) – and a good bar Charlie found! Then we are off again, window shopping through endless stores of Yak wool, jewelry, artwork, trinkets, t-shirts, well, you name it, it’s here. After a while we all decide we need a break and follow a promising sign on the 4th floor of building that looks like a good place for a beer and wine. We traipse through an alley to the back stairs, and begin our way up, passing one restaurant, and a busy tattoo parlor with 4 backpackers hanging out on the stairs smoking. Sadly, we get all the way up to the 4th floor, only to find that our destination is closed – permanently. Darn. But, all is not lost, the restaurant on the 2nd floor, Momo’s, works just as well – and it claims to be “Kathmandu’s craft beer destination.” Grabbing a table by the window so we can all marvel at the myriad of electrical wires all strung together (no scenic view here!), we order beer and wine. They only have 1 white wine, and thankfully we asked for a taste – because it was nasty, nasty, nasty. Retsina is better than whatever that was! So Maggi and I settle for sharing an Everest beer (local, yes, craft, not so much) with the guys while we hang out for a bit before heading back to the hotel.
On our journey back to the beginning of Thamel to grab a taxi, we stop at one of the little jewelry stores we had perused on our way in. The owner there is a hoot, and quite the salesman. We start looking at filigree earrings and of course he makes his pitch that these (on the left) are real silver, these (on the right) and fakes. Cheaper yes, but not real. He shows us a video of his “family” actually making the earrings, explaining how long it takes and that this is why they are more expensive. Sure! But, they are very pretty, and Maggi and I end up picking out 3 sets (1 for me, 1 for Maggi and 1 for her sister Katherine) – and then the negotiations begin! Ed is in charge and the jewelry guy keeps calling him “my father,” and then referring to me as “my mother.” This goes on an on, in the most hysterical fashion with Ed (Dad) going for the best deal. Finally, we get the price we want, plus 2 sets of freebie earrings (the cheap ones) thrown into the mix. Perfect! And, even better – I ask the owner to send me the video, he messes with my phone to get WhatsApp to work, and now we are WhatsApp “friends” and I have 4 videos of how our earrings are made. Fun!
Back on the street, it’s easy to grab a cab, negotiate the price and head back to the hotel. This driver is the antithesis of our first driver. He is total Zen and patience. So calm, he just sits and patiently waits for the traffic policeman at the circle (there are traffic cops at every intersection). The cop is definitely over his head, and it takes at least 10 minutes for us to pass through the intersection, all the while our driver just hangs out, calmly sitting there, turning up the music. Priceless!
Once back to the hotel, tonight we have decided to stay in, eating at the rooftop restaurant in the hotel. Relying on the weather forecast, tonight looks like the only clear night we will have, so we want to give it a try as it will likely be our last outdoor rooftop meal of the trip.
Turns out to be a good call. It is really cold, but the wait staff moves two propane heaters right next to us, so we are toasty warm, and it is definitely clear! The rooftop bar and lounge has a really neat indoor seating area with overstuffed chairs and sofas (at the time invaded by sports fanatics watching some match) and this little outdoor area next to the infinity pool, which is neat by day – but really gorgeous by night. The food is incredibly good – snacks and main meals. Maggi and I each have Momos – hers are green (literally) and vegetarian (of course), mine white and meat (chicken) filled. Maggi’s are the definite winner – perfectly spiced and delicious. Richard takes his chances with the steak (buffalo) and it is very good (would never know it was buffalo!). Ed has the local chicken specialty, Naram Charak, that is char grilled and perfectly spiced. An absolutely lovely way to finish off our extremely long day. And we only have to walk down 2 flights of stairs to our rooms. Perfect!
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