We arrive at Val Jalbert around 2pm. The price has gone up – the website said $27.50, but it is actually 31.50. Canadian, but still. We figure we’re here, so what the heck. The ticket girl is lovely and friendly and speaks “a little bit” of English. Yeah, she speaks better English than our French that’s for sure. She explains the town and the things to do, and suggest we take the bus ride up to the mill because there is a tour on the shuttle and we’ll get background. Then the bombshell – the next bus isn’t until 2:20. Darn. We need to maximize our time here, and wasting 20 minutes seems like, well, a waste. We can walk through a part of the town, and then get the shuttle at the second stop to go up to the mill, but we were a little worried the shuttle might get full and we couldn’t get on (ala Mont St. Michel), so after some discussion, we decide to go ahead and wait.
So, out we go to sit in line at the shuttle stop –we’re the first ones there, so that at least is helpful because a big, huge freaking bus has pulled up. Argh! But – we are first so we know we’ll have a seat on the bus. And good thing we didn’t decide to walk halfway!
So, then the double whammy – the bus is full of Italians and the tour on the shuttle will be in Italian. No way. Oh for heavens sake. Well, hell, at least we know enough Italian we’ll be able to catch a couple of words! We hop on the shuttle and sit right up front. The Italian tour guide is great – he negotiates with the shuttle driver (who doesn’t speak a lot of English) and manages to get us a hard copy of the English tour so we can follow along. Nice! The world is saved.
So, here is the scoop: Val Jalbert is an actual old Mill town from the early 1900’s. Damese Jalbert began building the mill in 1900, and completed it in 1902 – he unfortunately died in 1904, but the mill continued to operate until 1927, which is when the entire town was abandoned – thus, the reference of the “ghost town.” The place is huge! The shuttle ride alone takes 15 minutes winding past the convent school and the little general store and Post Office. Then we turn uphill and drive through the residence buildings, some restored, a lot not, and finally up to the Old Mill, situated right next to the hugely powerful 236 foot tall Ouiatchouan Falls.
Once in the Mill, there is an interactive “immersive” show that tells you all about the mill, the building, the work and then the demise in the ‘20s. The information sheet says the show doesn’t start until 3:00 – but as we are walking up, they are just closing the doors for a 2:45 show – we’re in – just barely.
The show is in a huge room with walkways surrounding the actual mill equipment. The walls surrounding the platform on which we stand come alive with two narrators, standing in front of what look like windows out onto the Falls – and all around us other windows appear, and more video of the narrators and other story tellers. It’s amazing – but sadly- all in French! We don’t understand much at all, which is really quite funny.
But you get the gist of it – and you definitely get the gist of it when they show the waterfall gushing down into the river, and the mist shoots out of the ceiling and soaks you. Oh, and you get the gist of the the hardship in the winter when it starts snowing…kid you not…snowflakes all over you. I started to get a little worried when they relate the fire that burned down the church – but fortunately, we weren’t burned alive! We were however doused in more water as we watched torrential downpours and lightening storms light up the presentation. All in all, it was a great display – we only wish we were bi-lingual!
Once un-immersed – we strolled through the mill, then headed outside to the waterfall viewing area. There is a cable car you can take up to the top of the falls, but we didn’t want to waste any of our precious time on that. We still had the whole town to cover and we only had so much time to do it. It was a beautiful day, and we relished out time outside on the viewing deck watching the majesty and the fury of the falls as they cascaded down into the river (even if it was pretty darn backlit).
From the Falls, we began our walk back to the welcome center, through the heart of the Val Jalbert town. Past the railroad tracks – once busy with freight trains filled with wood pulp, now totally derelict with trees growing through them.
It is truly amazing how much they developed here. For only 25 years! I don’t know the total number of houses built, I think 40, and they all had modern conveniences unheard of elsewhere – like electricity and running water and wood sidewalks. The pay is also good, and the village was the envy of the surrounding residents. The houses are amazing. We wander through street after street marveling at the un-restored….
…and the restored…
There are placards all over, explaining the town, and actually giving lists of the residents. We even found a picture of the town when it was inhabited – truly amazing!
There are also placards explaining how the site was abandoned in 1927, then discovered again in the 1950s when people would come and party and squat in the buildings. Tons of people then started coming up here camping, and some, sadly, vandalizing the property. The Government finally took over the property in the ‘60s and began restoration. Now they have an inn on the property and camping sites. We think it would be a fantastic place to come and stay and enjoy.
We meander back, visiting a couple of the houses that were open for visitation. We get more great Falls views (you can hear the rushing, roaring water everywhere around the property) as we turn back toward the “commercial” area…
Once on the main street, we visit the little general store, and then go to take pictures of the Post Office. One of the period costumed characters greets us with Bon Giorno! And then Arrivederci! When we leave. Oh funny – they think we are the Italians too!
Our last stop is the Convent-school which is set up with artist displays, original classrooms – where Ed plays student and I claim a new profession….
…and upstairs there are relics from when the school was active and the Sister’s quarters, with original furniture. Really fascinating.
We reach the main entrance around 4:30 and after a rest stop, head back to the car. We’d really love to spend more time here – it’s a shame we got in so late and can’t stay longer – it would be a fantastic place to picnic and spend the entire day outside and exploring all the fantastic history.
Back out to the main road, we detour and stop at the Maison du Bleuet. We are in the capital of Blueberries and we are not going to let a blueberry tasting (or purchasing) opportunity pass us by. This turns out to be a wonderful little shopping stop. The owner of the store, who is the one who actually makes all the local jams, spreads and chocolate covered blueberries, is an absolute doll. She says she only speaks “a little” English – but again, she is marvelous. She gives us tastes of all her products – blueberry jam, blueberry caramel, blueberry jelly, blueberry and raspberry jam, three berry jam and the blueberry onion confit. Oh, all are so delicious, but we decide to go ahead and actually buy the onion confit. It is too good to pass up. We end up with the confit, chocolate covered dried blueberries (not made locally) and a box of chocolate covered blueberries and raspberries (after several minutes of bad translation we do figure out that our proprietor does make these here locally). Wonderful! And such a lovely little interaction. It really enhanced our day so much!
Off we go, with our spoils, back to the port, passing through all the beautiful farmland, stopping at the vista point to take photos of the never ending lake view…
…then back through our 3 turns and, after and hour and a half, into the port parking lot, where our sweet little car rental guy has been hanging out in his car waiting for us. Aw. If only we’d known – we would have told him we’d call him when we were on our way back so he didn’t have to stay the whole day. Double Aw.
Car safely returned, we head back aboard to get ready for…yes…tonight is….White night!!!!
No comments:
Post a Comment