Friday, December 16, 2011

12/13 Afternoon and Lemaire Channel

Time passes slowly on this voyage – but in a good way. We can’t believe we wake up so early – and wonder how we’ll make it through the day – then of course all the different activities, briefings, talks, food, beer/wine (well not wine yet for me…but soon) – and poof – the day is gone! So our afternoon flew by with the bird and penguin talk, actually very interesting and takes 45 minutes, none of which were we bored.  Then its time to clean up and shower, dress for dinner and head to the briefing for tomorrow’s excursion. In between of course, we use our new found bird knowledge to spot albatross, painted albatross, petrels and the like, flying around our ship.  The painted ones, Cape Petrels, are my favorite, they look like they have been splattered with paint – they are so different and fun to watch.

At the briefing the captain tells us of a change of plans, well, they’ve changed the plans for tomorrow 4 times already – due to weather and ship traffic concerns. We are now headed straight to Port Lockroy and Paradise Bay – which sounds like the highlight of the trip.    The weather is pushing in and apparently all the other ships are headed south, our way, after not being able to do landings in the Shetland Islands. So we are going south first to see everything we can, then heading back north, hopefully after the system has passed.

Our first stop – Port Lockroy – will be in the morning, with a zodiac cruise and stop at the heritage museum (oh, and the shop – it’s the only shopping stop in the Antarctic – but fortunately all the proceeds go to the not-for-profit Antarctic society).  Then we will head to Paradise Bay where we will hopefully be able to land at the Argentinean science base to visit the Gentoo penguins and walk up the hill for a panoramic view – in the SNOW!  Yay! SNOW!

The briefings are full of information and very entertaining.  Jerome and Niko have a great sense of humor and keep us laughing, all the while telling us what to expect and not to expect on our expeditions.  There are 2 sets of 4 words they use constantly:  1) You will get wet, and 2) you will not sleep.  You can sleep when it gets dark.  Unfortunately, it never gets dark here at this time of year.  Okie dokie!

Down to the lounge for drinks, then on to dinner, where it’s apparent the dress code is for the birds. Last night I’m wearing my sandal/heels or Chico pants that’s for sure!  The biggest disadvantage is that you keep wanting to go outside to take pictures, and that’s near impossible in dinner clothes!  Sneakers it is!

Dinner is great (especially because I can finally eat real food!) and we share our table with Mike and Debbie who we know from Cruise Critic.  As we are eating the captain announces yet another change in plans – we are going through the Lemaire Channel tonight – instead of later tomorrow.  Ok – hey – they told us to be flexible – and really – does it matter?  Night is all relative since the sun sets around midnight, rises at 2 AM and has dusk and dawn in the two hours between.  So, we finish our dinner, run to the cabin, don more appropriate clothing and head to the balcony – then to the  back of the ship for pictures. 

All I can say is wow.  Well, maybe, WOW!  It’s overcast (bummer) and it’s snowing like crazy (cool), and the mountains covered with snow and ice glide by so close to the ship. The broken pack ice (little bergs really) float by, bobbing in the swells.  It is truly amazing scenery – on all sides of the ship.  The whites, the blues, the stark emptiness - this is the real deal here.

And it is oh so blissfully calm.  My stomach is giving little leaps of joy – or not leaping as the case may be!  The system may have stalled, but at least here in protected waters, it’s no where near what we just came through.  Thank you!

Another visit to the lounge, more pictures, and  we call it a night – we have to be up early tomorrow for our first expedition!

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