Off we go to the Great White South. Late flights mean we don’t have to leave until afternoon for the airport – which is just as well since we got notice at noon (via email) that our flight on 12/9 to Ushuaia was changed. Yikes! Luckily we got the message, called the airline, and got it all figured out – they just changed airports….long story that gets figured out once we actually get to Buenos Aires!
Finally to the airport. Flights go off like clockwork – Savannah (a miniature RIC) to IAD where we actually connect through the same concourse! Ah…the travel gods are at least for once on our sides. Not that we actually need it since we have enough time to grab a final drink before boarding the 10 hour flight to BA.
Flight is not anywhere near full (first time in forever we’ve been on a plane with that many empty seats). It’s so empty, we actually split up and took 2 rows – one for each of us. We had dinner together (awwww!!!) then went back to our respective rows to spread out and sleep (some of us better than others – and no one reading this needs to ask who the better sleeper was!).
Arrived in BA a little early – and whisked through passport control and customs. We already had our visa from 2 years ago, so no extra fee, no extra line. Our driver was waiting for us outside customs – we were in the car and off to Lola House in a jiffy.
Traffic was not all that bad into town – surprisingly. It only took us 1/2 hour to reach Lola house, a small, unassuming little hotel tucked into the residential neighborhood of Boedo. Andrea met us at the door with smiles and a huge welcome, checked us in, gave us all our maps and a good orientation of the area – then showed us to our room. The hotel is an adorable little inn, with rooms facing an outside courtyard area. Our room has a 20 foot ceiling with red brick and beam construction and sturdy furniture. It’s a lovely little change from the typical touristic hotels.
After depositing our bags and getting organized a bit, we hit the streets to check out the neighborhood. It’s teeming with people – the streets and stores all busy. We need to grab some AR pesos, and head toward the bank. Oh my gosh! Every bank has a line a mile long just waiting to either get inside or get to an ATM! It’s insane! Seriously – we pass at least 10 banks and all have long lines. What is the deal? Finally we find a Santander branch with only a moderate line and grab some dough.
As we find out later – Thursday 12/8 is the Day of Virgin – a huge holiday in Argentina – and since it is a Thursday, they have made it into a long weekend and given everyone Friday off as well – so the banks are crazy (and as we will see on Thursday AM, so are all the bus stations and airports with everyone getting out of town for the holiday). Aha! The little bell goes off in our heads! That is probably why our flight on Friday has been changed from the domestic airport to the International airport! Those crazy Portenos!
So, now that we’re all cashed up, we head to a cafe for a snack. We choose Cafe Trianon, simply because it looks inviting and the menu seems good. We practice our Spanish (which is a tad difficult because the pronunciations in Buenos Aires are a little different than typical Latin Spanish), but the waiter speaks both English and Spanish, so we get by. We learn that Medialunas are croissants – and we order 2 proscuitto and cheese medialunas – which are incredibly good. The combination of the sweet croissant and the salty proscuitto are incredible. We also order 2 awesome Empanadas (the onion and cheese makes your mouth water) and of course cerveza and vino (don’t need any help there!). Great snack for midday – and a nice little break from our walk.
Back at the hotel (after scoping out our other eating options for the evening) we actually take a nap! Then it’s out on the town for a great night of sitting outdoors, snacking on Picadas, which are the Argentinean answer to antipasti. A full bottle of wine (oh yeah, 3/4 means, 3/4 of a liter, not 3/4 carafe!) a 3/4 beer (uh huh, 750L) and our Picadas. The wine is totally different. Very amber and cloudy – with almost a cider type taste. It is incredibly good – if not odd looking. The beer – it’s beer! Ed likes it – all is good. The picadas are filling – all different types of meats, a cheese selection, breads and salted snacks to start. Nice way to spend our first evening in BA.
Tomorrow – the walking tour!
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