Ahhhh….a national holiday! Not only is everyone off work and going away on holiday, it is also the day that every Argentinean puts up their Christmas tree! A holiday to decorate for Christmas? Great country!
From a practical perspective, the holiday is great for us. There is no one about – the city is empty. It is a wholly different experience than yesterday – even in our little neck of the woods. We have a nice breakfast at the hotel (the sweets! Oy! Caramel spread on everything – better than Nutella, pastries galore – oh and eggs too – but then – who cares about protein! LOL). Clara is a wonderful host – and full of fabulous information for us in the morning. After storing up our carbs for the hike, we hit the Subte (subway) for Plaza Congresso for the walking tour.
The Subte is so easy – it’s cheap (only about $0.30 per ride anywhere in the extensive system) and ancient. The first line we were on had old cars –sort of reminded you of old NYC subway cars and lines. All the windows are open – no A/C here – it’s rocking along the lines. Very fun. Then the second line we transfer to is the original Subte from 1913. Line A still uses the original train cars from when it opened. They are all wood with great wooden seats and accents. That was fabulous – like being thrown back in time!
We, of course, get to the tour meeting point way early – so we wander about – soaking up the warm weather (oh, it’s warm!) and just looking around Congress plaza – at the statues, the buildings, etc. First stop – cappuccino and water at a cafe. Then back to the plaza to meet the tour group.
Since it’s a holiday, we didn’t think there would be a big crowd, but boy, were we wrong. Ended up at about 50 people following along our guide, Virginia, through the downtown area around the cultural, historical and political sites. Virginia is a gem – she is enthusiastic and knows her stuff. She leads her merry band of tourists past all the sites – Congress plaza – where yes – congress meets. She explained how the “windmill” building (which we thought was really cool looking) used to be the meeting place of all the politicos when the military dictatorship took over and revoked the voting process for all of Argentina. And how the owner let it fall into disrepair, so the government took it over, and now it is occupied by the homeless. This huge 8 story building? No electricity, water, etc. Amazing.
Next we head off toward the center of the city and Avenue de 9 Julio – one of the widest avenues in the world. On the way we see the building that was built to house the remains of Dante Alighieri (yes THE Dante). It is organized like The Divine Comedy – with the lower areas as “hell”, middle area as “purgatory” and the cupola on top “heaven”. The remains never came here – but the building remains (gotta love walking tours and trivia!).
Now we are on to the Pink House – the president’s “house” – where she works – then the final stop, the Oblisk. On the way, we pass a new Eva Peron mural. Neat!
It’s a great informational tour – won’t bore you with too many details – but it is a great way to see the city from the ground floor, get some exercise (2 1/2 hours) – and a perfect day to do it since it is SO uncrowded with everyone on their way to the coast for a long weekend.
After the tour, we head to Guerrin Pizzaria (a recommendation from Virginia) for a quick snack of empanadas and a porcion of pizza. Oh – our diet! But – hey – when in Rome…or Buenos Aires! We walked it off – hoofing it back to the Subte, then back to the Lola House for coffee, a chat with Andrea (one of the fabulous girls that runs the hotel), coffee and…the blog!
Tonight we are off to Pan y Arte for dinner - will report later…subject to wi-fi access!
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