Today is our big tour day. Yes, we acquiesced to take a ship tour so that we could see Moorea off the coast of Tahiti. We didn’t want to stay in Papeete, which we heard (and found it was true) was just a big ugly city. Moorea is reputed to be one of the most beautiful islands in the South Pacific so we really wanted to visit it. We of course researched going on our own, but the ferries to the island are notoriously off schedule (or cancelled completely at whim), plus our sail time had been moved up to 4 pm from 6 pm. The earlier sail time meant we could take the 9 am ferry over to island, but would have to be on the 1:30 ferry back to ensure we made the ship. That would give us less than 4 hours on the island, if all went well, and we didn’t feel it was worth the risk, so we took the ship’s tour.
It turned out to be a very fun excursion. The sun came out for our tour (although it did rain briefly when we first hit the island), we took the 9 am ferry and were met by our tour guide, William. William it turns out is a native of Moorea, but he looks more Irish than Tahitian. His grandfather was white, and somehow the genes just carried through to his father and himself. His father, Albert, started the first taxi service on Moorea and has been in the business for 36 years. William was very informative, and hysterically funny. He told non-stop jokes, none of which we can remember now, or if we do remember, can’t repeat here!
Moorea means “Yellow Lizard” in Tahitian, because there are so many lizards (what we call geckos) all over the island. There are 15,000 people living on the island, 10 villages, 7 hotels and 11 policemen. The island is 39 miles around and has a huge variety of plants and floral life. We saw the most amazing flowers (particularly the Pagoda flower that looks like a miniature red Christmas tree) and plants on our island tour.
During our island drive, we went up to the Belvedere look out point for beautiful views of the two main bays on the island. Along the way we saw all types of tropical foliage and agriculture. The whole area around the mountain was a government owned protected forest where locals could lease land for $50 per year for agricultural use only. Planting only, no building. Thus, there were plenty of coconut, taro and other fields planted along the drive up the mountain.
Back down the mountain, we headed for the lagoon for a quick cruise past the Beachcomber hotel (where all the rooms are little villas over the water) and on to the Motu where we would be having lunch and snorkeling. It was a beautiful day and we enjoyed the sun and the water – as well as feeding the stingrays along the shore. There were 5 stingrays at one point in time all swimming around our legs and rubbing up against us – they felt like silk. Cool! Also had some great island food – the Tahitian version of cerviche with tuna and coconut milk, plus pork ribs, mahi mahi and chicken.
Very fun- but unfortunately because of timing – very rushed. Because of the ferry schedule, instead of taking a boat back to Papeete, we were scheduled to fly back. We were told that there were 2 flights, one at 2:15 and one at 3:15. If we wanted to, William would take us to the shop that he owned (black pearls) for a bit of shopping before going back to airport for the 3:15 plane. He said he would have mini vans waiting for us when we got back from the Motu.
Once back from lunch, we asked about shopping and Albert said we didn’t have enough time – that we were running late. We were disappointed, and were heading for the bus, when William said he had a car that could take us to his shop, but only 4 of us could go. We banded together with Bill and Shirley, another couple we have met frequently at dinner, and headed off on our adventure. The 4 of us climb into a big Mercedes and drive off to William’s shop.
We turn right out of the lagoon boat launch, the buses turn left – and away we all go. Got to William’s shop and stayed for about 20 minutes, buying a beautiful natural pearl necklace for me – and a cultured pearl pendant for Shirley. It’s starting to get a little late, we knew we had to be at the airport by 2:40, so we head out for our driver to take us back to the airport. As we get out to the car, he says he is sorry, but he has to stop and get gas, he wasn’t watching the gauge close enough. Ok, no biggie--let’s go. Well, he turns away from the airport and drives about 5 minutes in the opposite direction for the gas. Now we’re even further away and it’s rapidly approaching 2:40.
He gases up and finally heads in the right direction, but we have no idea how far we are. He leisurely drives us around the island, answering questions now and again and getting stuck behind local traffic getting off of work on Friday evening. It’s now 2:50 and we’re no where near the airport and starting to get a little antsy. We’re figuring we have to get there early enough for them to check us in, go through security, etc., and we’re all 4 calculating what it will take to get us back to the ship if we miss this flight. (For those of you following the itinerary, you’ll know that this is one port you don’t want to miss the ship – it’s 4 sea days until Hawaii – and if you miss the ship – you’re flying to Honolulu to wait 4 days for the ship with what’s on your back and in your backpack – which in this case is wet beach towels and bathing suits!)
The driver, sensing our stress, does speed up a little bit, but then gets stuck again behind some slow driving locals – and it’s like a bad Amazing Race segment where the cabbie let’s every other team pass the one team up! At about 2:55 William, who is still coordinating the tour at the airport, calls our driver on the phone – now we know we’re right to be anxious since William is obviously concerned about where we are. We’re in the back seat telling the driver to pass these slow cars, but he’s back to being totally unconcerned. We finally hit the airport drive and he speeds up – and screeches into the parking lot. We jump out of the car before it even stops and run toward the airport.
William is waiting for us directing us to the gate. It’s 3:05 and we’re thinking we’ve just made it by the skin of our teeth, but as we get to the gate we see virtually our entire group standing there in line waiting to board. The first flight—the “2:15”-- had just left at 3:00!! We’re on the 3rd flight which is scheduled at 3:15 and we’ve got plenty of time! The entire boarding process is standing in line at an open door that leads to the airstrip with a laminated boarding card with the number 3 on it! Too funny! All that stress and here we are with everyone else waiting for our little 21 passenger plane!
Plane #2 took off about 5 minutes later, and then in comes plane #1 back from Papeete to pick us up. Don’t even think they shut down the propellers – the plane came in, taxied to the front of the door, let off 2 passengers, then loaded us. We all clambered on, shoved our back packs down at our feet, followed the pilot’s only instructions to fasten our seatbelts and off we went. Total turn time, approximately 3 minutes! We were taxiing down the runway at precisely 3:15! Total flight time 6 minutes to Papeete with great views of Moorea and Papeete as we approached.
Later note:
Tragically, this was the aircraft (Tail number F-OIQI) that crashed on August 9, 2007, killing all 20 occupants.
Hit the mini-bus and flew back to the ship, getting on right before the 4 pm sail time. Sailed away through a now hazy sky, while watching Tahiti grow smaller and smaller from our perch on our balcony. Headed out for our nightly walk around promenade deck, then dinner and a little dancing to one of the better bands on the ship.
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