After an excellent lunch of Italian specialties – pasta, antipasto, fish, cannelloni and the like, plus tiramisu for dessert – we headed back to the lounge for – you guessed it – more food! Ricardo, the maitre’d, and Raul Castillo, executive chef, put on a demonstration of Cerviche, decorating a truffle cake and Martini and Specialty coffee. (In all actuality, this cruise isn’t the food fest others typically are. There’s always room service, but meals are short time periods and there isn’t an alternative pizza bar or snack place. Cookies at 3 or 4 every day, and that’s about it. Which is really enough, particularly when you’re venturing out into the heat everyday on excursions. That’s not to say the food isn’t excellent and plentiful – it is – it’s just not such a focus as it is on other ships.)
Demonstrations were great – learned what to do with the popcorn and roasted corn kernels always on the buffet (besides just snacking on them which is what we’ve been doing!) – you put them in the cerviche! Awesome – not that we know – wish we would have learned that on Sunday! Not Thursday! Have recipes for all. The Truffle cake was awesome – Maggie #2 took the huge marzipan Rose we learned how to make – well – let me rephrase that – the rose that they chef showed us how to make – we all agreed, we’re not making that! No way! (PS – Maggie took it to eat, she likes Marzipan!)
At 3 pm there was an Imax movie about the Galapagos Archipelago. Then at 4, we all left again for the Dragon Hill walk. This was another rough zodiac ride. The seas were getting choppy, there is a spring tide going on, and you could feel it in the zodiac. The anticipation was for a dry landing here due to high tide. Jorge told us the snorkeling was not so good, so we elected to go over without our gear, but Ed and Cathy wore their swim suits in case they wanted to stay on the beach for a bit. As we approached the landing, we saw some one in the water right by the landing dock. One of the guests had lost their camera and Richard (our race-zodiac driver from the other day) had jumped in the water with snorkeling mask to try to find it. A very sweet and literally going “overboard” way to help the passengers. But what a sure fire way to ruin your trip. Losing your camera! Big Bummer!
After landing we started off on this short hike, around and up a hill, through land iguana territory. We spotted some large iguanas and fortunately, the girls didn’t get too camera happy, so I got to stay comfortably packed away – safe from these big ugly old creatures. Although they did manage to plop me in a tree for a close up – heck – at least I wasn’t on the ground as iguana app’s!
Walking towards the hill, we even managed to spot some baby iguanas, not more than 2 weeks old. Up and around the hill we came to a beautiful lookout point for photos of the coast. I got to pose next to what I hoped was an abandoned iguana burrow! ON the way back down, we watched a pair of flamingoes fly into the lagoon in front of us, then do their eating thing. Very majestic and tranquil.
Back at the beach, none of us wanted to swim, once again, too rough for us and just not worth the effort. Getting back on the zodiac was a little touchy – the rolling waves kept bopping the zodiac about. Once in, those of us on the left had to constantly stand as a wave crashed in over the side. Eventually we made it out and back to the ship for cookies and refreshments – a little wet – but safe and sound.
Evening activities are the norm, shower, lounge, briefing, dinner, then tonight, a movie night! Winged Migration is the name of the show. The highlight there is the billing of “popcorn” and “milkshakes”. We’re there! Had the popcorn – never saw the milkshakes! And didn’t make it through the movie either! Cathy and Maggi escaped outside with Ed following shortly after, then Richard. Sat out bon the back deck and chatted with Dick and Pedro and Eliana for bit, then Ed and Cathy headed off to sleep, marveling that it’s almost their last day!
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
2/29 Santiago and Santa Cruz islands
Up and out early for our high intensity walk around the island. This was the day that was supposed to be the “Survival of the fittest” hike – 4 miles through the inland and up a small mountain. Unfortunately, due to the rain, the trails have been washed out, so we aren’t going to see who’s the fittest of our group. Bummer – we were really looking forward to some good aerobic activity, but it’s just not going to happen on this trip. Cathy doesn’t know what she’s going to do when she hits the Insignia. It’s been so long since she’s exercised on a machine, she may not make it very long at all! Ed of course has been hitting the treadmill whenever he can – but Cathy isn’t doing that bike – it’s just too uncomfortable – and in the heat – it’s just not worth it!
Richard is up and about – but still not quite 100%, so he waves farewell to us as the 3 of us (Michelle took the low intensity zodiac ride and Ellen is sleeping in) head out on our adventure with Jorge (the naturalist). Jorge the cruise director, has already said that the snorkeling is not good today, it’s too cloudy and the waters are rough. Ed, Cathy and Maggi gamely grab their gear though, just in case they want to go in anyway. The ride to James Bay is a little bumpy, but nothing too bad (Cathy is rather enjoying these little sea rides- which is incredibly odd since she’ll get sick the back seat of a car! But on the zodiac, she’s like a pro – go figure!). Getting out of the zodiac is another issue. One at a time on each side, you gotta go and you gotta go fast. When the guides say go – jump – the waves, the undertow, it was pretty brutal. First guy fell right in – soaked all the way (including camera equipment!). Cathy made it out fine, Ed got a little wet, but Maggi went face first – not a pretty landing. How do some of these people do this? We are all relatively young and agile and we’re having problems – we’re just amazed at the older folks who are hopping out of these zodiacs.
On the beach and organized, we head out into the interior a bit in search of shore birds and iguanas (lovely, more iguanas!). We saw quite a few birds, the little fly catchers are teeny and so friendly. A couple just sat on the path in front of us and hopped about while we took pictures. Then they flew at the guys with the big camera lenses and hovered right in front of the lens looking in. It was marvelous. We were all so enamored, we couldn’t even get a picture of it! Peter had a bird do that to him, and he took a picture but doesn’t think it turned out because of the focus. Truly amazing that they are so unafraid.
We continued our walk searching for yellow warblers, more fly catchers, Galapagos hawks and other birds. Learned more about cactus – about the birds reproducing, or not as the case may be because there hasn’t been enough rain. They won’t reproduce if they don’t think they can get enough food for the babies, and the rain is what brings the growth and allows them to get food. It’s hot, but not too unbearable as there is a nice breeze. As we turned toward the coast, the breeze picked up dramatically, and even with the sun it was actually pleasant. We strolled down the rocky coast (all lava) and found oyster catchers and a couple of fur seals sleeping away (you can recognize them by their ears, which are bigger and stick out of their heads more than the sea lions’ ears). We also watched the great Galapagos toilet – a very unique blow hole type formation that really did look like it was flushing when the water went out – even went out in a circular motion!
Stumbled upon a lava heron and then – of all things – saw a great blue heron (which Jorge said was unusual). She was sitting on the lava ledge, just watching us walk by. We took it as a sign that we are being watched over by Nancy – since we’ve seen the same type (we of course want to believe it’s the same heron) at the ash ceremony and that we saw on our last trip.
After looking at Sally Lightfoot crabs, more iguanas and birds, we headed back to the beach for swimming and/or snorkeling. Yeah, right. Not a chance. We had already decided we weren’t going near that water, it was just too brutal looking. Not even for a swim, and when we returned, there was an older gentleman who was supposedly a very strong swimmer who had virtually washed up on the beach. It took 3 guides to grab him under the arms, pull him out and put him under a tree to cool off and relax. The good news is that he just had the breath knocked out of him, and he is fine, but it was a very scary moment. Needless to say that sealed our fate – we were outta there. (Later, talking to Dick, he said the snorkeling was great once you got out around the rocks – he had some awesome pictures to prove it too. Works for us – we’re just as happy looking at his pictures!)
Of course, the decision was terribly easy, the actual implementation wasn’t. Getting back on that zodiac was really difficult. One at a time, these old plump people were being pushed up on the boat – basically belly flopping in the zodiac. Ok, so you figure, the young nimble ones wont have that problem. Ha! Wrong. Ed made it in relatively easily, but Cathy couldn’t get up on the boat, and in the scramble managed to scrap the heck out of her knee (she now matched the other Maggie with her war wound). Maggi got in but got soaked again. The ride back was bumpy, but at least we were all on the darn zodiac. Wow – that was tough!
It’s a busy day back on board with a Life in the Galapagos talk with one of the Naturalists before lunch and a culinary demonstration after! The Naturalist talk with Manuel was very interesting. He is a marine biologist by trade and worked on fishing ships around the islands making sure they were following the Ecuadorian wildlife guidelines. He was out and around the Galapagos a lot on these vessels and decided he really wanted a change, wanted to give something back instead of always being the heavy handed “man” type. So, he became a Naturalist in 1989. Originally from Guayaquil, he and his family got Galapagos residency permits (which he said was much easier to do before 1998 when they began to clamp down on issuing them), and took a one month course to become a guide (now it’s 3 months and only open to residents of Galapagos; this last session 300 applied and only 50 were accepted.)
He explained that there are no Park Rangers as such in the Galapagos National Park, but the Naturalists act as rangers and report in every week about activities around the islands, visitors, wildlife activity, good/bad ships, fishing vessels, etc. There are only 60 visiting areas in the Park, and the Park controls all of them very strictly. The Xpedition goes to the same places all the time, and other ships do the same. The maximum number of people in any given area is 100 at a time (some areas can’t withstand that many tourists, and are restricted to a much smaller number, some as little as 16 people at a time). June, July and August are the best times to come to the islands because there isn’t much difference in the temperature between the sea and the air. There is a lot of animal activity and you can typically see a lot more and different things. Last year there sere 143,000 visitors to the islands. The Ecuadorian government controls the number of visitors, to protect the islands, but it seems to get a little bigger every year.
Richard is up and about – but still not quite 100%, so he waves farewell to us as the 3 of us (Michelle took the low intensity zodiac ride and Ellen is sleeping in) head out on our adventure with Jorge (the naturalist). Jorge the cruise director, has already said that the snorkeling is not good today, it’s too cloudy and the waters are rough. Ed, Cathy and Maggi gamely grab their gear though, just in case they want to go in anyway. The ride to James Bay is a little bumpy, but nothing too bad (Cathy is rather enjoying these little sea rides- which is incredibly odd since she’ll get sick the back seat of a car! But on the zodiac, she’s like a pro – go figure!). Getting out of the zodiac is another issue. One at a time on each side, you gotta go and you gotta go fast. When the guides say go – jump – the waves, the undertow, it was pretty brutal. First guy fell right in – soaked all the way (including camera equipment!). Cathy made it out fine, Ed got a little wet, but Maggi went face first – not a pretty landing. How do some of these people do this? We are all relatively young and agile and we’re having problems – we’re just amazed at the older folks who are hopping out of these zodiacs.
On the beach and organized, we head out into the interior a bit in search of shore birds and iguanas (lovely, more iguanas!). We saw quite a few birds, the little fly catchers are teeny and so friendly. A couple just sat on the path in front of us and hopped about while we took pictures. Then they flew at the guys with the big camera lenses and hovered right in front of the lens looking in. It was marvelous. We were all so enamored, we couldn’t even get a picture of it! Peter had a bird do that to him, and he took a picture but doesn’t think it turned out because of the focus. Truly amazing that they are so unafraid.
We continued our walk searching for yellow warblers, more fly catchers, Galapagos hawks and other birds. Learned more about cactus – about the birds reproducing, or not as the case may be because there hasn’t been enough rain. They won’t reproduce if they don’t think they can get enough food for the babies, and the rain is what brings the growth and allows them to get food. It’s hot, but not too unbearable as there is a nice breeze. As we turned toward the coast, the breeze picked up dramatically, and even with the sun it was actually pleasant. We strolled down the rocky coast (all lava) and found oyster catchers and a couple of fur seals sleeping away (you can recognize them by their ears, which are bigger and stick out of their heads more than the sea lions’ ears). We also watched the great Galapagos toilet – a very unique blow hole type formation that really did look like it was flushing when the water went out – even went out in a circular motion!
Stumbled upon a lava heron and then – of all things – saw a great blue heron (which Jorge said was unusual). She was sitting on the lava ledge, just watching us walk by. We took it as a sign that we are being watched over by Nancy – since we’ve seen the same type (we of course want to believe it’s the same heron) at the ash ceremony and that we saw on our last trip.
After looking at Sally Lightfoot crabs, more iguanas and birds, we headed back to the beach for swimming and/or snorkeling. Yeah, right. Not a chance. We had already decided we weren’t going near that water, it was just too brutal looking. Not even for a swim, and when we returned, there was an older gentleman who was supposedly a very strong swimmer who had virtually washed up on the beach. It took 3 guides to grab him under the arms, pull him out and put him under a tree to cool off and relax. The good news is that he just had the breath knocked out of him, and he is fine, but it was a very scary moment. Needless to say that sealed our fate – we were outta there. (Later, talking to Dick, he said the snorkeling was great once you got out around the rocks – he had some awesome pictures to prove it too. Works for us – we’re just as happy looking at his pictures!)
Of course, the decision was terribly easy, the actual implementation wasn’t. Getting back on that zodiac was really difficult. One at a time, these old plump people were being pushed up on the boat – basically belly flopping in the zodiac. Ok, so you figure, the young nimble ones wont have that problem. Ha! Wrong. Ed made it in relatively easily, but Cathy couldn’t get up on the boat, and in the scramble managed to scrap the heck out of her knee (she now matched the other Maggie with her war wound). Maggi got in but got soaked again. The ride back was bumpy, but at least we were all on the darn zodiac. Wow – that was tough!
It’s a busy day back on board with a Life in the Galapagos talk with one of the Naturalists before lunch and a culinary demonstration after! The Naturalist talk with Manuel was very interesting. He is a marine biologist by trade and worked on fishing ships around the islands making sure they were following the Ecuadorian wildlife guidelines. He was out and around the Galapagos a lot on these vessels and decided he really wanted a change, wanted to give something back instead of always being the heavy handed “man” type. So, he became a Naturalist in 1989. Originally from Guayaquil, he and his family got Galapagos residency permits (which he said was much easier to do before 1998 when they began to clamp down on issuing them), and took a one month course to become a guide (now it’s 3 months and only open to residents of Galapagos; this last session 300 applied and only 50 were accepted.)
He explained that there are no Park Rangers as such in the Galapagos National Park, but the Naturalists act as rangers and report in every week about activities around the islands, visitors, wildlife activity, good/bad ships, fishing vessels, etc. There are only 60 visiting areas in the Park, and the Park controls all of them very strictly. The Xpedition goes to the same places all the time, and other ships do the same. The maximum number of people in any given area is 100 at a time (some areas can’t withstand that many tourists, and are restricted to a much smaller number, some as little as 16 people at a time). June, July and August are the best times to come to the islands because there isn’t much difference in the temperature between the sea and the air. There is a lot of animal activity and you can typically see a lot more and different things. Last year there sere 143,000 visitors to the islands. The Ecuadorian government controls the number of visitors, to protect the islands, but it seems to get a little bigger every year.
2/28 Espinoza Point & evening aboard
The zodiac ride was much calmer, but we did manage to get stuck in the shallows by the dock. After pushing off with a walking stick (they are a nuisance to walk with – but sure come in handy for other things!), we successfully landed and were greeted with our first marine iguana sighting. A huge colony of them, piled over top each other – right in our path. Easily numbering in the 100’s, these things are an amazing sight, but thoroughly disgusting They smell, they spit and they look like sci-fi monsters. Eeeuuw yuk! Of course, Missy Michelle and Cathy have that gleam in their eyes that I know spells trouble. Try to fight it as I may, they yank me out of my comfy pack and summarily plop me down on the ground next to these nasty creatures. Argh! I’m going to need a Purell bath for sure when I get back on board!
After a few interminable moments, they pick me up and we stand gazing at the heap, listening to people ask really stupid questions. Come on folks, move along! We’re at the end of the group and these things are moving towards us. One in particular seems to have designs on Maggi! We’ve got no where to go – trees behind us, piles of iguanas in front of us and people with dumb questions on either side. Move it!!!!
Finally we trek off! Over black lava flows, watching our first Galapagos hawk, looking at SLCs and enjoying a really nice breeze. The lava reminds us of Hawaii and its fun to pick our way through it listening to Geovanna, chatting with Ellen and Michelle (well, maybe not Michelle….I’m still sore about the fishing line idea…), Maggie #2, Dick and the rest of the gang. We reach a point over a sheltered bay type area where we watched a marine iguana swim in from the sea and Cathy takes loads of pictures of SLC. Of course, the net thing I know, here come the girls again! I’m plucked out of hiding and unceremoniously plunked down next to one of those darn crabs! Have you seen those pinchers? Pick me up! Put me back, damn it!
Phew! A close call averted. The group turned back and we headed toward the beach area to view some sea lions and more nasty iguanas. ON the way, Maggie 2 fell and scraped here knee and hand – first war wound! We poured water on it and made sure she was ok, then headed off. She’s quite the trooper, bleeding away, but not letting that stop her from our walk and explorations!
The beach area held lots of iguanas and sea lions. WE all had to walk single file to avoid stepping on any iguana egg nests. Halfway through the walk we came upon a huge iguana colony on a rock. Here comes that gleam again – this time it’s Michelle who plucks me up and sets me down next to those stinky things – I’ll just die if one of them spits on me!!! Photos done (thank heavens!), we continue walking around, taking photos of a fantastic rainbow and assorted wildlife. On our way back to the zodiac, we once again cross over the colony by the dock. We gingerly pick our way around them – we’re getting to be pros at avoiding wildlife by this point – and hopped on the zodiac for the ride back to the mother ship.
Cookies and frozen drinks await us as usual on board. Then, freshened up, we all gather for the briefing and then the “sound of Silence” BBQ under the stars. Richard joined us – he’s getting his sea legs back obviously! We sat outside under a surprisingly cloudless sky and feasted on soup, salad, buffet fixin’s and good BBQ beef (we didn’t realize there was fish until afterwards – oh well!). Drinks in the Discovery Lounge then off to bed for our next great excursion.
After a few interminable moments, they pick me up and we stand gazing at the heap, listening to people ask really stupid questions. Come on folks, move along! We’re at the end of the group and these things are moving towards us. One in particular seems to have designs on Maggi! We’ve got no where to go – trees behind us, piles of iguanas in front of us and people with dumb questions on either side. Move it!!!!
Finally we trek off! Over black lava flows, watching our first Galapagos hawk, looking at SLCs and enjoying a really nice breeze. The lava reminds us of Hawaii and its fun to pick our way through it listening to Geovanna, chatting with Ellen and Michelle (well, maybe not Michelle….I’m still sore about the fishing line idea…), Maggie #2, Dick and the rest of the gang. We reach a point over a sheltered bay type area where we watched a marine iguana swim in from the sea and Cathy takes loads of pictures of SLC. Of course, the net thing I know, here come the girls again! I’m plucked out of hiding and unceremoniously plunked down next to one of those darn crabs! Have you seen those pinchers? Pick me up! Put me back, damn it!
Phew! A close call averted. The group turned back and we headed toward the beach area to view some sea lions and more nasty iguanas. ON the way, Maggie 2 fell and scraped here knee and hand – first war wound! We poured water on it and made sure she was ok, then headed off. She’s quite the trooper, bleeding away, but not letting that stop her from our walk and explorations!
The beach area held lots of iguanas and sea lions. WE all had to walk single file to avoid stepping on any iguana egg nests. Halfway through the walk we came upon a huge iguana colony on a rock. Here comes that gleam again – this time it’s Michelle who plucks me up and sets me down next to those stinky things – I’ll just die if one of them spits on me!!! Photos done (thank heavens!), we continue walking around, taking photos of a fantastic rainbow and assorted wildlife. On our way back to the zodiac, we once again cross over the colony by the dock. We gingerly pick our way around them – we’re getting to be pros at avoiding wildlife by this point – and hopped on the zodiac for the ride back to the mother ship.
Cookies and frozen drinks await us as usual on board. Then, freshened up, we all gather for the briefing and then the “sound of Silence” BBQ under the stars. Richard joined us – he’s getting his sea legs back obviously! We sat outside under a surprisingly cloudless sky and feasted on soup, salad, buffet fixin’s and good BBQ beef (we didn’t realize there was fish until afterwards – oh well!). Drinks in the Discovery Lounge then off to bed for our next great excursion.
2/28 Isabela and Fernandina Islands
2/27 Morning –
Richard is under the weather this morning with gastric intestinal issues that don’t bear repeating. After assurances that all he needed was rest, we left on our morning excursion to Urbina Bay – where there is a possibility of maybe snorkeling. (That’s directly from the daily program, btw.) However, Jorge’s 7:45 announcement told us that the water had “high levels of murky” so we would not be snorkeling. Hadn’t really planned on it anyway, so the high levels of murky sealed the deal!
Team Zodiac minus one boarded the 2nd zodiac – the ride was probably the most interesting part of the day! It was a wet landing on the beach and the wave action was pretty intense. We all had to scramble out of the zodiac in a hurry, drop to the sand, then run up the steep slo9pe of the beach. Pretty exhilarating! After drying off our feet, we started inland in search of giant land turtles and land iguanas. Everywhere we turned, it seemed, there was a land iguana in our path! Rogilio our guide, named them all – Caterina (the movie star), #70 (who actually had the number 70 painted on him) and many others lounging about in the sun and shade.
The walk was easy, a giant turtle was spotted eating branches/leaves in the scrub and a huge iguana that looked like Dino the Dinosaur was spied in the distance through the trees. All was well until Michelle had the bright idea to introduce me to the iguanas. I was happily riding along, being contentedly ignored until that moment. Let me tell you, her stock dropped dramatically right then and there! Here I thought she was such a sweet girl…..
So – here we go….Iguana bait! Every darn prehistoric creature they could find, I was there. Michelle even had the bright idea to hook a piece of fishing line to me so I could be dangled over animals and crevices and all sorts of other death defying situations. Now does that not sound like bait? I’m beginning not to like this girl - I can’t see what Ed and Cathy see in her!
Fortunately, they didn’t find many more creatures to torture me with – and everyone headed back to the beach to swim or go back to the ship. Only a few brave soles (Pedro and Eleana, Elizabeth, Barry and Eduoard) ventured into the water. Team Zodiac wisely chose to go back to the ship.
As the zodiac approached, you could see we were in or a ride. The first one had extra people (some of our group went with them – don’t go there! – people just don’t listen or pay attention!). So when it came time for us to load up, there were less people, which was probably a good thing because the waves were getting bigger and bigger and timing was everything. We all scrambled and belly flopped (known as doing the sea lion) our way into the zodiac and then the guides started screaming go, go, go! Ricardo, our drive, turned us around and here comes this monster wave! We all thought we were goners! But he gunned it and got us up and over it, and out of there. Then he proceeded to haul ass back to the ship – even passing the first zodiac with all of us helpfully egging him on! Officially scary, officially fun!
Back on board, cookies and cappuccino, then a nice chat in the Discovery lounge with Barb, Maggie #2, Ellen, Michelle and others. Afterward a great Ecuadorian buffet – fish, meats, salads and of course cerviche. The food is really quite good. Richard recovering, but still in the room, so the afternoon excursion is not going to happen for him. At 4 pm, Team Zodiac still minus 1 headed out, this time to Espinoza Point.
Richard is under the weather this morning with gastric intestinal issues that don’t bear repeating. After assurances that all he needed was rest, we left on our morning excursion to Urbina Bay – where there is a possibility of maybe snorkeling. (That’s directly from the daily program, btw.) However, Jorge’s 7:45 announcement told us that the water had “high levels of murky” so we would not be snorkeling. Hadn’t really planned on it anyway, so the high levels of murky sealed the deal!
Team Zodiac minus one boarded the 2nd zodiac – the ride was probably the most interesting part of the day! It was a wet landing on the beach and the wave action was pretty intense. We all had to scramble out of the zodiac in a hurry, drop to the sand, then run up the steep slo9pe of the beach. Pretty exhilarating! After drying off our feet, we started inland in search of giant land turtles and land iguanas. Everywhere we turned, it seemed, there was a land iguana in our path! Rogilio our guide, named them all – Caterina (the movie star), #70 (who actually had the number 70 painted on him) and many others lounging about in the sun and shade.
The walk was easy, a giant turtle was spotted eating branches/leaves in the scrub and a huge iguana that looked like Dino the Dinosaur was spied in the distance through the trees. All was well until Michelle had the bright idea to introduce me to the iguanas. I was happily riding along, being contentedly ignored until that moment. Let me tell you, her stock dropped dramatically right then and there! Here I thought she was such a sweet girl…..
So – here we go….Iguana bait! Every darn prehistoric creature they could find, I was there. Michelle even had the bright idea to hook a piece of fishing line to me so I could be dangled over animals and crevices and all sorts of other death defying situations. Now does that not sound like bait? I’m beginning not to like this girl - I can’t see what Ed and Cathy see in her!
Fortunately, they didn’t find many more creatures to torture me with – and everyone headed back to the beach to swim or go back to the ship. Only a few brave soles (Pedro and Eleana, Elizabeth, Barry and Eduoard) ventured into the water. Team Zodiac wisely chose to go back to the ship.
As the zodiac approached, you could see we were in or a ride. The first one had extra people (some of our group went with them – don’t go there! – people just don’t listen or pay attention!). So when it came time for us to load up, there were less people, which was probably a good thing because the waves were getting bigger and bigger and timing was everything. We all scrambled and belly flopped (known as doing the sea lion) our way into the zodiac and then the guides started screaming go, go, go! Ricardo, our drive, turned us around and here comes this monster wave! We all thought we were goners! But he gunned it and got us up and over it, and out of there. Then he proceeded to haul ass back to the ship – even passing the first zodiac with all of us helpfully egging him on! Officially scary, officially fun!
Back on board, cookies and cappuccino, then a nice chat in the Discovery lounge with Barb, Maggie #2, Ellen, Michelle and others. Afterward a great Ecuadorian buffet – fish, meats, salads and of course cerviche. The food is really quite good. Richard recovering, but still in the room, so the afternoon excursion is not going to happen for him. At 4 pm, Team Zodiac still minus 1 headed out, this time to Espinoza Point.
2/27 Afternoon at Bartolome Island & evening aboard
Our afternoon excursion is to Bartolome island – a high intensity walk up a Volcanic cone (374 feet high, 358 wooden steps) to view 28 islands in the Galapagos chain. Before arriving at Bartolome, we sailed through fairly calm waters, spotting rays and other fish off our decks. We noticed something jumping out in the distance – a big silver flash almost - and were told it was a giant ray. They breach like that to try to get the parasites off of them. Had no idea they did that! Wow! A school of dolphin caught the Captain’s attention, and he turned the ship and circled them so we could all get a better look. How fun is that?
At disembarkation for Bartolome, Team Zodiac split up with Maggi and Richard on 1 zodiac and Ellen, Michelle, Cathy and Ed on the next one with Geovanna. A quick ride and we were unloaded on a rocky point to begin our ascent to the op of the cone. Bartolome’s landscape looks like the moon – all ah and volcanic cones (it has had recent volcanic activity). As we climbed (in the heat – but at least with a good breeze), we learned about the lava, lava tubes, flora and fauna of the island and the 3 different types of craters.
The view at the top was spectacular – overlooking the other islands and Pinnacle rock where we would be snorkeling later. After a few photos, we sort of pushed the group along, wanting to get to the beach ASAP to have maximum snorkeling time. This is the island with eh Penguin population, so Cathy was of course particularly excited to get to the beach and see if she could swim with them! But before landing on the beach, Johnny (one of the better zodiac drivers) took us around to the other side of Pinnacle rock to see a penguin swimming. He was adorable – standing on a rock just posing away fro us. Johnny pulled the zodiac right up to the rock so Michelle and Cathy could get pictures. The penguin didn’t even move!!!
Back around the corner we went for a wet landing on a beautiful sandy beach. There was still over an hour left for snorkeling and swimming. Ed and Cathy chose to snorkel, Ellen and Michelle stayed closer to shore, cooling off in the water. The snorkeling was great – at least for sissy snorkelers who didn’t know any better. The waters were cloudy, but you could still hundreds of fish – all different colors, shapes and sizes (identification will have to wait until later when we can get our hands on a guidebook). There was a huge school of brightly colored blue striped fish with yellow tails; a wild looking dark gray fat fish with blue squares; small, electric blue and black fish, just an astonishing array! IT was the first time ever swimming with the fishes for Ed and Cathy (and they were alive to talk about it!!!!)
About mid-way through the swim, Cathy realized she still had on her watch. She’d been being very paranoid about getting her new waterproof watch wet – just in case it really wasn’t all that waterproof. But it worked like a charm, and the light came in quite handy underwater!
Richard and Maggi did well snorkeling too. The breathing finally clicked for Maggi and she took off like a little fishie herself. She saw the yellow tail fish and a small dark gray fish with electric blue stripes plus lots of others. And, just like Cathy, it wasn’t just the fish but the fact that she was snorkeling that made the whole experience so awesome!!! Richard, of course, took off and actually made it around the corner of Pinnacle rock. He saw tons of fish too – and came face to face with a sea lion! Brave boy!
After about an hour, they all dried off and headed back to the ship. Straight into the shower and cleaned up for tonight’s briefing and dinner, the sat at the bar for the briefing (someone else had commandeered their traditional front row seats!). Didn’t matter much – and Carlos took care of everyone as usual – Viu Manent for wine, peanuts for snacks (all you have to do is ask!)
Dinner was excellent as usual – mixed seafood with Langostino, huge shrimp – more like prawns – tuna and something else; Steak and Red Snapper with tomato concasse like sauce. Ed and Cathy had the mixed seafood, and shared the snapper; Richard had steak and Snapper Maggi had mixed seafood. And wine, and beer, and Black Pearl dessert (chocolate dome with a dense vanilla center). Too much! But oh so good!!
At 10 there was the special Equator crossing ceremony, so back to the Discovery lounge. The show was already in progress and the special guest – King Neptune – was being led in by his minions. The gang settled at the bar and watched as Maggie #2 was crowned Queen. Then, the King’s helpers came looking for “supplicants”! Needless to say, Jorge (in painted warrior garb) came straight to Maggi and Cathy – and completely under protest (Cathy is a shellback after all!) led them up to the stage, along with Michelle – forever partners in crime!
The ceremony was cute – and had them kneeling in supplication to the queen. Then of course everyone had to do something to please the King and Queen. Maggi had to become a Blue Footed Boobie – and do the dance. Cathy was a flamingo – and was made to stand and then fly. Michelle was an adorable penguin. Then we all toasted the queen with shots of cranberry juice and were released back to the safety of our bar stools! Later in the cabin, we all got Equator crossing certificates! Very fun.
At disembarkation for Bartolome, Team Zodiac split up with Maggi and Richard on 1 zodiac and Ellen, Michelle, Cathy and Ed on the next one with Geovanna. A quick ride and we were unloaded on a rocky point to begin our ascent to the op of the cone. Bartolome’s landscape looks like the moon – all ah and volcanic cones (it has had recent volcanic activity). As we climbed (in the heat – but at least with a good breeze), we learned about the lava, lava tubes, flora and fauna of the island and the 3 different types of craters.
The view at the top was spectacular – overlooking the other islands and Pinnacle rock where we would be snorkeling later. After a few photos, we sort of pushed the group along, wanting to get to the beach ASAP to have maximum snorkeling time. This is the island with eh Penguin population, so Cathy was of course particularly excited to get to the beach and see if she could swim with them! But before landing on the beach, Johnny (one of the better zodiac drivers) took us around to the other side of Pinnacle rock to see a penguin swimming. He was adorable – standing on a rock just posing away fro us. Johnny pulled the zodiac right up to the rock so Michelle and Cathy could get pictures. The penguin didn’t even move!!!
Back around the corner we went for a wet landing on a beautiful sandy beach. There was still over an hour left for snorkeling and swimming. Ed and Cathy chose to snorkel, Ellen and Michelle stayed closer to shore, cooling off in the water. The snorkeling was great – at least for sissy snorkelers who didn’t know any better. The waters were cloudy, but you could still hundreds of fish – all different colors, shapes and sizes (identification will have to wait until later when we can get our hands on a guidebook). There was a huge school of brightly colored blue striped fish with yellow tails; a wild looking dark gray fat fish with blue squares; small, electric blue and black fish, just an astonishing array! IT was the first time ever swimming with the fishes for Ed and Cathy (and they were alive to talk about it!!!!)
About mid-way through the swim, Cathy realized she still had on her watch. She’d been being very paranoid about getting her new waterproof watch wet – just in case it really wasn’t all that waterproof. But it worked like a charm, and the light came in quite handy underwater!
Richard and Maggi did well snorkeling too. The breathing finally clicked for Maggi and she took off like a little fishie herself. She saw the yellow tail fish and a small dark gray fish with electric blue stripes plus lots of others. And, just like Cathy, it wasn’t just the fish but the fact that she was snorkeling that made the whole experience so awesome!!! Richard, of course, took off and actually made it around the corner of Pinnacle rock. He saw tons of fish too – and came face to face with a sea lion! Brave boy!
After about an hour, they all dried off and headed back to the ship. Straight into the shower and cleaned up for tonight’s briefing and dinner, the sat at the bar for the briefing (someone else had commandeered their traditional front row seats!). Didn’t matter much – and Carlos took care of everyone as usual – Viu Manent for wine, peanuts for snacks (all you have to do is ask!)
Dinner was excellent as usual – mixed seafood with Langostino, huge shrimp – more like prawns – tuna and something else; Steak and Red Snapper with tomato concasse like sauce. Ed and Cathy had the mixed seafood, and shared the snapper; Richard had steak and Snapper Maggi had mixed seafood. And wine, and beer, and Black Pearl dessert (chocolate dome with a dense vanilla center). Too much! But oh so good!!
At 10 there was the special Equator crossing ceremony, so back to the Discovery lounge. The show was already in progress and the special guest – King Neptune – was being led in by his minions. The gang settled at the bar and watched as Maggie #2 was crowned Queen. Then, the King’s helpers came looking for “supplicants”! Needless to say, Jorge (in painted warrior garb) came straight to Maggi and Cathy – and completely under protest (Cathy is a shellback after all!) led them up to the stage, along with Michelle – forever partners in crime!
The ceremony was cute – and had them kneeling in supplication to the queen. Then of course everyone had to do something to please the King and Queen. Maggi had to become a Blue Footed Boobie – and do the dance. Cathy was a flamingo – and was made to stand and then fly. Michelle was an adorable penguin. Then we all toasted the queen with shots of cranberry juice and were released back to the safety of our bar stools! Later in the cabin, we all got Equator crossing certificates! Very fun.
2-27 Bachas Beach & Bartolome Island
This morning’s activity wasn’t until 9, which made everyone quite happy by allowing them to get some extra sleep. Cathy and Ed were up early – around 7 – and left for some coffee and the treadmill (Ed, not Cathy, she stayed on the aft deck and updated the journal – not an easy task since there is so much to remember!!!). After a quick breakfast (which is always quite good – eggs to order, wonderful buffet of just about anything you’d want, pastries and cereal included), it was time for a zodiac strategy session. It seems some of the other passengers (mostly our newly found neighbor Dick) where catching on to the last Zodiac strategy and getting a little, well, irked, I suppose is a good word. So, Team Zodiac decided to not take the last boat this morning, but to mix it up a little so no one would get their noses out of joint.
Morning at Bachas Beach
We met out back to get in line, and as it turned out Michelle and Helen ended up with Cathy and Ed, Maggi and Richard were in the next zodiac (which happened to be the last – with Dick and Linda as it turns out!). C&E and M&H had Jorge for a guide – and walked along the shore looking at Sally Lightfoot crabs and learning about cactus (they grow tall on islands where turtles and iguanas are found because their height will protect them from the animals eating their flowers). Also walked past the remains of the barges that crashed on the beach in the 1950’s. The natives couldn’t say “Barges”, but pronounced it “bachas”, thus, Bachas Beach. Along the way, C&E got the smart idea to use me a crab bait! They actually took me out and set me next to one of those huge, red spiny creatures! What were they thinking? I mean honestly! Bad enough they considered putting me next to the blue footed boobies the other day – but they at least had the sense to keep me in my comfy and safe backpack haven. But, no, now, with the help of little miss Michelle who doesn’t think a crab would like me for bait, I’m out of the bag an on a rock! Fortunately I escaped with only my photo taken, but people, please. Let’s use some common sense here!
Safely back in my little home, the troops headed off to the lagoon to look for flamingoes. No luck today, no flamingoes, but that meant more time to swim and snorkel from the beach. Once again, I stayed in the warm sand, safe in my room, while Cathy and Ed went out frolicking in the surf. Ed – the polar bear – headed straight out with only his mask and snorkel. Cathy followed, only getting as far as knee deep before returning for her wet suit. Finally, both of them in the water, began to snorkel around the rock formations searching for sea life. They both saw some interesting fish – schools of bland looking fish, large round black ones with yellow tails, other colorful varieties and lots of coral and underwater plant life. The conditions weren’t the greatest, it was very, very cloudy, but it was a good way to practice and get ready for the afternoon session which the guides say should be the best snorkeling of the trip (sissy snorkeling that is, not real snorkeling – although yesterday afternoon’s real snorkel wasn’t good at all, so murky that they turned back after no more than 15 minutes).
Maggi and Richard caught up with Ed and Cathy and they all swam around and played in the water for a while. The heat was really building up, and the swim was most refreshing – or so they tell me. I’m waiting for one of them to come up with the smart idea of getting me out there to swim with the fishes. The first time I see that zip lock back come out and the gleam in their eyes, I’m outta here!
Back on board, internet, lunch and then everyone to their separate corners for reading, journaling, or napping.
Morning at Bachas Beach
We met out back to get in line, and as it turned out Michelle and Helen ended up with Cathy and Ed, Maggi and Richard were in the next zodiac (which happened to be the last – with Dick and Linda as it turns out!). C&E and M&H had Jorge for a guide – and walked along the shore looking at Sally Lightfoot crabs and learning about cactus (they grow tall on islands where turtles and iguanas are found because their height will protect them from the animals eating their flowers). Also walked past the remains of the barges that crashed on the beach in the 1950’s. The natives couldn’t say “Barges”, but pronounced it “bachas”, thus, Bachas Beach. Along the way, C&E got the smart idea to use me a crab bait! They actually took me out and set me next to one of those huge, red spiny creatures! What were they thinking? I mean honestly! Bad enough they considered putting me next to the blue footed boobies the other day – but they at least had the sense to keep me in my comfy and safe backpack haven. But, no, now, with the help of little miss Michelle who doesn’t think a crab would like me for bait, I’m out of the bag an on a rock! Fortunately I escaped with only my photo taken, but people, please. Let’s use some common sense here!
Safely back in my little home, the troops headed off to the lagoon to look for flamingoes. No luck today, no flamingoes, but that meant more time to swim and snorkel from the beach. Once again, I stayed in the warm sand, safe in my room, while Cathy and Ed went out frolicking in the surf. Ed – the polar bear – headed straight out with only his mask and snorkel. Cathy followed, only getting as far as knee deep before returning for her wet suit. Finally, both of them in the water, began to snorkel around the rock formations searching for sea life. They both saw some interesting fish – schools of bland looking fish, large round black ones with yellow tails, other colorful varieties and lots of coral and underwater plant life. The conditions weren’t the greatest, it was very, very cloudy, but it was a good way to practice and get ready for the afternoon session which the guides say should be the best snorkeling of the trip (sissy snorkeling that is, not real snorkeling – although yesterday afternoon’s real snorkel wasn’t good at all, so murky that they turned back after no more than 15 minutes).
Maggi and Richard caught up with Ed and Cathy and they all swam around and played in the water for a while. The heat was really building up, and the swim was most refreshing – or so they tell me. I’m waiting for one of them to come up with the smart idea of getting me out there to swim with the fishes. The first time I see that zip lock back come out and the gleam in their eyes, I’m outta here!
Back on board, internet, lunch and then everyone to their separate corners for reading, journaling, or napping.
2/26 Evening Aboard Xpedition
Back on board, Cathy and Ed exercised (they are psycho gym rats after all), Maggi and Richard sat on lounge chairs and watched (the exercise equipment is located outside on deck 6 – right next to the lounge chairs for sun bathing!). We also watched big Manta Rays jump out of the water and breach. None of us had any idea they would do that – and found out later that it is their way of trying to get parasites off of them. Amazing!
Showered and casually attired ( tonight is the star gazing and animal watching from the deck night), Cathy and Ed headed to the lounge to grab seats for the briefing. We were joined by Bill and Kay, from Albany, New York (Kay originally from Florida), and struck up a conversation. They had been to Macchu Pichu before the cruise, and said it was breathtaking, but had a hard time getting out of Cusco due to civil unrest. They had a tough time in M.P. as well. The farmers were striking and they managed to shut down the railways, so the MP train wasn’t running the whole way. The only way to get to the ruins was by car for a couple hours, then onto a train at the Hiram Bingham stop. Getting back down was just a challenging, then their flight was cancelled from Cusco and they ended up spending an extra night there, flying out to Quito on Saturday. They missed the all day tour, but fortunately made it for the ship! Phew! Kay said she thought the protests were over, but that’s an interesting thing to be looking forward to next week!!!
Maggi and Richard joined everyone for the briefing and to celebrate Cathy’s birthday. They had printed out a picture of the 4 of them at the Baroness lookout point from that afternoon (the ship has a Kodak machine that allows you to print out photos) and given that to Cathy along with a chocolate from their room and an adorable penguin. It was such a wonderful surprise!
Dinner after the briefing was great as usual. We had a table for 6, and Jorge, one of the guides joined us for the evening. He was a great table mate, and told us all about his home town south west of Quito, and that he has a banana plantation for his “other job” (everyone has a 2nd job, as they are only allowed to work 4 or 6 weeks at a time in the Galapagos, then must take 4 weeks or so off). He told us all sorts of interesting things about the banana process, about Galapagos and working as a guide (22 years!). He has 3 boys (14, 9 and 7 – ages might not be 100% accurate, but close), and in Ecuador, they call his teenager, the donkey years! Great term for those stubborn adolescent years!!!
We had a very enjoyable evening with him, then at the end of dinner, here comes the Maitre’d, staff and all our friends – Helen, Michelle, Barb, the other Maggie, Pedro, Eleana and Anita, all singing happy birthday and giving Cathy room chocolates (courtesy of Maggi #1!!! Thank you Maggi!!)! It was truly a supermarket moment, and we are all amazed that Cathy managed not to cry! So totally sweet! A beautiful strawberry shortcake like cake with a candle finished off the meal perfectly!
Afterward, everyone headed up to the outside decks to watch the show in the water and the sky. Up on deck 6, they turned out the lights (much like they did at our request the night before on deck 4!!) and one of the officers pointed out different constellations, while Geovanna translated. You can see more stars down here than we’ve ever seen before. We were blessed with crystal clear skies in which you could see everything. Mars, Orion, the seven sisters, Perseus, even the Milky Way. But the real show was in the water.
We were at anchor and the crew turns on the outside lights to illuminate the water. We all stood mesmerized for hours watching sea lions and Pelicans fight for flying fish that moved across the water like torpedoes. Then came the sharks – big ones! One was at least 10 to 12 feet in length, with 2 others close behind. They trolled the waters, waiting for the flying fish as well. When an unlucky fish would happen to surface, all this commotion would begin – the Pelicans would lift off – quicker than you can ever imagine – the sea lions would take off like a rocket and the sharks would fly – all heading toward their quarry. Who ever got there first got the fish – maybe. It was truly amazing.
We could have stayed there all night. And actually, some of us did! Cathy and Ed retired a little after 11 - Maggi and Richard stayed up talking to Pedro and Eleana as well as the other Richmond contingent, Dick and Linda. No telling when they headed back down to deck 3!
Showered and casually attired ( tonight is the star gazing and animal watching from the deck night), Cathy and Ed headed to the lounge to grab seats for the briefing. We were joined by Bill and Kay, from Albany, New York (Kay originally from Florida), and struck up a conversation. They had been to Macchu Pichu before the cruise, and said it was breathtaking, but had a hard time getting out of Cusco due to civil unrest. They had a tough time in M.P. as well. The farmers were striking and they managed to shut down the railways, so the MP train wasn’t running the whole way. The only way to get to the ruins was by car for a couple hours, then onto a train at the Hiram Bingham stop. Getting back down was just a challenging, then their flight was cancelled from Cusco and they ended up spending an extra night there, flying out to Quito on Saturday. They missed the all day tour, but fortunately made it for the ship! Phew! Kay said she thought the protests were over, but that’s an interesting thing to be looking forward to next week!!!
Maggi and Richard joined everyone for the briefing and to celebrate Cathy’s birthday. They had printed out a picture of the 4 of them at the Baroness lookout point from that afternoon (the ship has a Kodak machine that allows you to print out photos) and given that to Cathy along with a chocolate from their room and an adorable penguin. It was such a wonderful surprise!
Dinner after the briefing was great as usual. We had a table for 6, and Jorge, one of the guides joined us for the evening. He was a great table mate, and told us all about his home town south west of Quito, and that he has a banana plantation for his “other job” (everyone has a 2nd job, as they are only allowed to work 4 or 6 weeks at a time in the Galapagos, then must take 4 weeks or so off). He told us all sorts of interesting things about the banana process, about Galapagos and working as a guide (22 years!). He has 3 boys (14, 9 and 7 – ages might not be 100% accurate, but close), and in Ecuador, they call his teenager, the donkey years! Great term for those stubborn adolescent years!!!
We had a very enjoyable evening with him, then at the end of dinner, here comes the Maitre’d, staff and all our friends – Helen, Michelle, Barb, the other Maggie, Pedro, Eleana and Anita, all singing happy birthday and giving Cathy room chocolates (courtesy of Maggi #1!!! Thank you Maggi!!)! It was truly a supermarket moment, and we are all amazed that Cathy managed not to cry! So totally sweet! A beautiful strawberry shortcake like cake with a candle finished off the meal perfectly!
Afterward, everyone headed up to the outside decks to watch the show in the water and the sky. Up on deck 6, they turned out the lights (much like they did at our request the night before on deck 4!!) and one of the officers pointed out different constellations, while Geovanna translated. You can see more stars down here than we’ve ever seen before. We were blessed with crystal clear skies in which you could see everything. Mars, Orion, the seven sisters, Perseus, even the Milky Way. But the real show was in the water.
We were at anchor and the crew turns on the outside lights to illuminate the water. We all stood mesmerized for hours watching sea lions and Pelicans fight for flying fish that moved across the water like torpedoes. Then came the sharks – big ones! One was at least 10 to 12 feet in length, with 2 others close behind. They trolled the waters, waiting for the flying fish as well. When an unlucky fish would happen to surface, all this commotion would begin – the Pelicans would lift off – quicker than you can ever imagine – the sea lions would take off like a rocket and the sharks would fly – all heading toward their quarry. Who ever got there first got the fish – maybe. It was truly amazing.
We could have stayed there all night. And actually, some of us did! Cathy and Ed retired a little after 11 - Maggi and Richard stayed up talking to Pedro and Eleana as well as the other Richmond contingent, Dick and Linda. No telling when they headed back down to deck 3!
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