This morning’s activity wasn’t until 9, which made everyone quite happy by allowing them to get some extra sleep. Cathy and Ed were up early – around 7 – and left for some coffee and the treadmill (Ed, not Cathy, she stayed on the aft deck and updated the journal – not an easy task since there is so much to remember!!!). After a quick breakfast (which is always quite good – eggs to order, wonderful buffet of just about anything you’d want, pastries and cereal included), it was time for a zodiac strategy session. It seems some of the other passengers (mostly our newly found neighbor Dick) where catching on to the last Zodiac strategy and getting a little, well, irked, I suppose is a good word. So, Team Zodiac decided to not take the last boat this morning, but to mix it up a little so no one would get their noses out of joint.
Morning at Bachas Beach
We met out back to get in line, and as it turned out Michelle and Helen ended up with Cathy and Ed, Maggi and Richard were in the next zodiac (which happened to be the last – with Dick and Linda as it turns out!). C&E and M&H had Jorge for a guide – and walked along the shore looking at Sally Lightfoot crabs and learning about cactus (they grow tall on islands where turtles and iguanas are found because their height will protect them from the animals eating their flowers). Also walked past the remains of the barges that crashed on the beach in the 1950’s. The natives couldn’t say “Barges”, but pronounced it “bachas”, thus, Bachas Beach. Along the way, C&E got the smart idea to use me a crab bait! They actually took me out and set me next to one of those huge, red spiny creatures! What were they thinking? I mean honestly! Bad enough they considered putting me next to the blue footed boobies the other day – but they at least had the sense to keep me in my comfy and safe backpack haven. But, no, now, with the help of little miss Michelle who doesn’t think a crab would like me for bait, I’m out of the bag an on a rock! Fortunately I escaped with only my photo taken, but people, please. Let’s use some common sense here!
Safely back in my little home, the troops headed off to the lagoon to look for flamingoes. No luck today, no flamingoes, but that meant more time to swim and snorkel from the beach. Once again, I stayed in the warm sand, safe in my room, while Cathy and Ed went out frolicking in the surf. Ed – the polar bear – headed straight out with only his mask and snorkel. Cathy followed, only getting as far as knee deep before returning for her wet suit. Finally, both of them in the water, began to snorkel around the rock formations searching for sea life. They both saw some interesting fish – schools of bland looking fish, large round black ones with yellow tails, other colorful varieties and lots of coral and underwater plant life. The conditions weren’t the greatest, it was very, very cloudy, but it was a good way to practice and get ready for the afternoon session which the guides say should be the best snorkeling of the trip (sissy snorkeling that is, not real snorkeling – although yesterday afternoon’s real snorkel wasn’t good at all, so murky that they turned back after no more than 15 minutes).
Maggi and Richard caught up with Ed and Cathy and they all swam around and played in the water for a while. The heat was really building up, and the swim was most refreshing – or so they tell me. I’m waiting for one of them to come up with the smart idea of getting me out there to swim with the fishes. The first time I see that zip lock back come out and the gleam in their eyes, I’m outta here!
Back on board, internet, lunch and then everyone to their separate corners for reading, journaling, or napping.
Wednesday, March 26, 2008
2/26 Evening Aboard Xpedition
Back on board, Cathy and Ed exercised (they are psycho gym rats after all), Maggi and Richard sat on lounge chairs and watched (the exercise equipment is located outside on deck 6 – right next to the lounge chairs for sun bathing!). We also watched big Manta Rays jump out of the water and breach. None of us had any idea they would do that – and found out later that it is their way of trying to get parasites off of them. Amazing!
Showered and casually attired ( tonight is the star gazing and animal watching from the deck night), Cathy and Ed headed to the lounge to grab seats for the briefing. We were joined by Bill and Kay, from Albany, New York (Kay originally from Florida), and struck up a conversation. They had been to Macchu Pichu before the cruise, and said it was breathtaking, but had a hard time getting out of Cusco due to civil unrest. They had a tough time in M.P. as well. The farmers were striking and they managed to shut down the railways, so the MP train wasn’t running the whole way. The only way to get to the ruins was by car for a couple hours, then onto a train at the Hiram Bingham stop. Getting back down was just a challenging, then their flight was cancelled from Cusco and they ended up spending an extra night there, flying out to Quito on Saturday. They missed the all day tour, but fortunately made it for the ship! Phew! Kay said she thought the protests were over, but that’s an interesting thing to be looking forward to next week!!!
Maggi and Richard joined everyone for the briefing and to celebrate Cathy’s birthday. They had printed out a picture of the 4 of them at the Baroness lookout point from that afternoon (the ship has a Kodak machine that allows you to print out photos) and given that to Cathy along with a chocolate from their room and an adorable penguin. It was such a wonderful surprise!
Dinner after the briefing was great as usual. We had a table for 6, and Jorge, one of the guides joined us for the evening. He was a great table mate, and told us all about his home town south west of Quito, and that he has a banana plantation for his “other job” (everyone has a 2nd job, as they are only allowed to work 4 or 6 weeks at a time in the Galapagos, then must take 4 weeks or so off). He told us all sorts of interesting things about the banana process, about Galapagos and working as a guide (22 years!). He has 3 boys (14, 9 and 7 – ages might not be 100% accurate, but close), and in Ecuador, they call his teenager, the donkey years! Great term for those stubborn adolescent years!!!
We had a very enjoyable evening with him, then at the end of dinner, here comes the Maitre’d, staff and all our friends – Helen, Michelle, Barb, the other Maggie, Pedro, Eleana and Anita, all singing happy birthday and giving Cathy room chocolates (courtesy of Maggi #1!!! Thank you Maggi!!)! It was truly a supermarket moment, and we are all amazed that Cathy managed not to cry! So totally sweet! A beautiful strawberry shortcake like cake with a candle finished off the meal perfectly!
Afterward, everyone headed up to the outside decks to watch the show in the water and the sky. Up on deck 6, they turned out the lights (much like they did at our request the night before on deck 4!!) and one of the officers pointed out different constellations, while Geovanna translated. You can see more stars down here than we’ve ever seen before. We were blessed with crystal clear skies in which you could see everything. Mars, Orion, the seven sisters, Perseus, even the Milky Way. But the real show was in the water.
We were at anchor and the crew turns on the outside lights to illuminate the water. We all stood mesmerized for hours watching sea lions and Pelicans fight for flying fish that moved across the water like torpedoes. Then came the sharks – big ones! One was at least 10 to 12 feet in length, with 2 others close behind. They trolled the waters, waiting for the flying fish as well. When an unlucky fish would happen to surface, all this commotion would begin – the Pelicans would lift off – quicker than you can ever imagine – the sea lions would take off like a rocket and the sharks would fly – all heading toward their quarry. Who ever got there first got the fish – maybe. It was truly amazing.
We could have stayed there all night. And actually, some of us did! Cathy and Ed retired a little after 11 - Maggi and Richard stayed up talking to Pedro and Eleana as well as the other Richmond contingent, Dick and Linda. No telling when they headed back down to deck 3!
Showered and casually attired ( tonight is the star gazing and animal watching from the deck night), Cathy and Ed headed to the lounge to grab seats for the briefing. We were joined by Bill and Kay, from Albany, New York (Kay originally from Florida), and struck up a conversation. They had been to Macchu Pichu before the cruise, and said it was breathtaking, but had a hard time getting out of Cusco due to civil unrest. They had a tough time in M.P. as well. The farmers were striking and they managed to shut down the railways, so the MP train wasn’t running the whole way. The only way to get to the ruins was by car for a couple hours, then onto a train at the Hiram Bingham stop. Getting back down was just a challenging, then their flight was cancelled from Cusco and they ended up spending an extra night there, flying out to Quito on Saturday. They missed the all day tour, but fortunately made it for the ship! Phew! Kay said she thought the protests were over, but that’s an interesting thing to be looking forward to next week!!!
Maggi and Richard joined everyone for the briefing and to celebrate Cathy’s birthday. They had printed out a picture of the 4 of them at the Baroness lookout point from that afternoon (the ship has a Kodak machine that allows you to print out photos) and given that to Cathy along with a chocolate from their room and an adorable penguin. It was such a wonderful surprise!
Dinner after the briefing was great as usual. We had a table for 6, and Jorge, one of the guides joined us for the evening. He was a great table mate, and told us all about his home town south west of Quito, and that he has a banana plantation for his “other job” (everyone has a 2nd job, as they are only allowed to work 4 or 6 weeks at a time in the Galapagos, then must take 4 weeks or so off). He told us all sorts of interesting things about the banana process, about Galapagos and working as a guide (22 years!). He has 3 boys (14, 9 and 7 – ages might not be 100% accurate, but close), and in Ecuador, they call his teenager, the donkey years! Great term for those stubborn adolescent years!!!
We had a very enjoyable evening with him, then at the end of dinner, here comes the Maitre’d, staff and all our friends – Helen, Michelle, Barb, the other Maggie, Pedro, Eleana and Anita, all singing happy birthday and giving Cathy room chocolates (courtesy of Maggi #1!!! Thank you Maggi!!)! It was truly a supermarket moment, and we are all amazed that Cathy managed not to cry! So totally sweet! A beautiful strawberry shortcake like cake with a candle finished off the meal perfectly!
Afterward, everyone headed up to the outside decks to watch the show in the water and the sky. Up on deck 6, they turned out the lights (much like they did at our request the night before on deck 4!!) and one of the officers pointed out different constellations, while Geovanna translated. You can see more stars down here than we’ve ever seen before. We were blessed with crystal clear skies in which you could see everything. Mars, Orion, the seven sisters, Perseus, even the Milky Way. But the real show was in the water.
We were at anchor and the crew turns on the outside lights to illuminate the water. We all stood mesmerized for hours watching sea lions and Pelicans fight for flying fish that moved across the water like torpedoes. Then came the sharks – big ones! One was at least 10 to 12 feet in length, with 2 others close behind. They trolled the waters, waiting for the flying fish as well. When an unlucky fish would happen to surface, all this commotion would begin – the Pelicans would lift off – quicker than you can ever imagine – the sea lions would take off like a rocket and the sharks would fly – all heading toward their quarry. Who ever got there first got the fish – maybe. It was truly amazing.
We could have stayed there all night. And actually, some of us did! Cathy and Ed retired a little after 11 - Maggi and Richard stayed up talking to Pedro and Eleana as well as the other Richmond contingent, Dick and Linda. No telling when they headed back down to deck 3!
2/26 Afternoon on Floreana
On our afternoon excursion, once again, Team Zodiac prevails. A private tour with Jessica again. This time, we spent quite a bit of time in the zodiac, touring the waters right off the coast of Floreana. There were quite a few sea lions playing around the zodiac and sunning on the rocks that were scattered about the area. We sighted 4 little penguins perched on the edge of on of the rocky outcrops – standing perfectly still like they were posing. Then we watched one of them swim through the water – at warp speed it seemed – right past our zodiac. As we trolled around the rocks, we watched giant turtles and rays swim past. We searched for turtles resting in the mangroves, but weren’t lucky enough to spot any.
On the beach, we hopped out of the zodiac (wet landing) and proceeded up a switch back trail to the Baroness Look out point. Fabulous view from a wooden deck at the top of a rise. Legend has it that in the 1930’s, the island was inhabited by a German dentist, his mistress and family (the Wittmers), as well as a “self-proclaimed” Baroness and her 3 lovers. Shortly after the Baroness made her home there, she began to terrorize the other residents. The Wittmer’s would receive gifts from their family, delivered by ship, and the Baroness would intercept the ships and not let the gifts go the family. She claimed them for her own. There were rumors of poisonings and murders, and eventually the Baroness, her 3 lovers and the dentist ended up dead. Many have tried to find the true story behind the island’s inhabitants, but no hard facts have been confirmed. Floreana today is known as the “island of mystery” for this reason.
The look out platform we visited was allegedly the site where the Baroness would scan the ocean for incoming ships. It’s a beautiful view and you could imagine her surveying her entire domain from where we stood. After photos and story telling, it was back down to the beach for the Zodiac back to the ship.
On the beach, we hopped out of the zodiac (wet landing) and proceeded up a switch back trail to the Baroness Look out point. Fabulous view from a wooden deck at the top of a rise. Legend has it that in the 1930’s, the island was inhabited by a German dentist, his mistress and family (the Wittmers), as well as a “self-proclaimed” Baroness and her 3 lovers. Shortly after the Baroness made her home there, she began to terrorize the other residents. The Wittmer’s would receive gifts from their family, delivered by ship, and the Baroness would intercept the ships and not let the gifts go the family. She claimed them for her own. There were rumors of poisonings and murders, and eventually the Baroness, her 3 lovers and the dentist ended up dead. Many have tried to find the true story behind the island’s inhabitants, but no hard facts have been confirmed. Floreana today is known as the “island of mystery” for this reason.
The look out platform we visited was allegedly the site where the Baroness would scan the ocean for incoming ships. It’s a beautiful view and you could imagine her surveying her entire domain from where we stood. After photos and story telling, it was back down to the beach for the Zodiac back to the ship.
2/26 Floreana Island
Happy Birthday to Cathy. Up bright and early for our excursion, and Cathy was greeted with birthday cards and presents (including a massage at 2 – courtesy of Ed!). Another beautiful day, but not as hot in the beginning part of the morning – although after the sun had been up for a little bit, it did heat up. Today’s activities are much less strenuous (their definition and our definition of ‘strenuous’ don’t really mesh, but it’s all about the audience!) – a short walk through easy paths to view flamingoes in a lagoon, then a walk across the island to a sandy beach to view stingrays and back again for snorkeling from the beach (dubbed ‘sissy snorkeling’ by Ed – as opposed to ‘real’ snorkeling which is done directly off the zodiac).
Morning on Floreana
Team Zodiac strategy works again! Last zodiac off and the 6 of us had another private tour, this time with Jessica. An easy walk through rather shaded areas, we learned about a tree that protects from mosquitoes – it’s scent repels them – and watched for finches and warblers again. AT the first viewing area, we could see 30 or ore flamingoes, some feeding on shrimp (which is what gives them their pink color) others just standing in the shallow brackish water. We learned a very interesting fact – the reason why the flamingoes legs look like they work backwards (their ‘knee’ goes to the back) is that their ‘knee’ is actually much higher on the bird – almost up their body – and what we are seeing is actually similar to our ankle – which is why it moves the way it does. Who knew? (lots of things we are learning this trip! Too much to remember actually – so whatever little goofy nuggets we can retain will be found here for posterity!)
We moved on to the next viewing area, a platform perched higher up a hill with a panoramic view of the lagoon. Lots of photo op’s here – you could see the trails the flamingoes make while walking through the lagoon and eating. We noticed what looked like the number ‘48’ in their trails and through that was pretty amazing since Cathy was turned 47 – just beginning her 48th year – that day! (ok – it’s a stretch – but hey – come on – it was close enough to be noted!!)
Next, our little troop moved on to the beach on the other side of Floreana where there were lots of stingrays in the water, plus a shark and a few giant turtles. The beach was white and sandy, and it was the first time we could clearly see the turtle tracks and nests that they made to lay their eggs. The tracks are eerily reminiscent of ATV or 4WD tire treads – leading up to the dunes where they dig a huge whole, lay their eggs then move back to the sea. The water at this beach was very clear with little tide – we all wished we could stay there to snorkel with the animals.
But, alas, that was not to be. Off we hiked, back over the small hill to the landing beach where we had left our snorkel gear. Maggi, Cathy & Richard all suited up in wet suits – Ed decided to forgo the suit and handle the water like the polar bear he really is – snorkel equipment at the ready – we headed out to the water. Temperature was nice – warm enough not to wear the suit, but the sun is so strong and there was talk of jelly fish, so we decided to be safe rather than sorry. Ed took off, even without his vest, and Richard followed. Maggi and Cathy stayed closer to shore trying to get the hang of the equipment. After a few attempts of panicked water spurting, Cathy got the hang of it (blowing up the vest really helped with the panic feeling), but Maggi decided it just wasn’t for her. So as the boys headed out with the underwater cameras, frolicking with sea lions (one brushed past both Ed and Richard), Cathy practiced a little bit here and there (managing not to drown or cough up any sea water), Maggi enjoyed the water and conversation with the other bathers. I was finally let out of my room and enjoyed a few moments basking in the sun on the beach. There weren’t any wet suits small enough for me, so I wasn’t allowed in the water. That was probably a good thing since I’m thinking some of those bigger fish might like a small pup for fish food. Plus, those sea lions…..Bavarian pups might sound like a nice dessert for them! I was happy enough just to bask in the fresh air, sand and look out at the water from somewhere other than the cabin for a while.
On our way back in the zodiac, we had our first penguin sighting! Yea! A penguin on Cathy’s birthday – how perfect!! We found out later that a few people (Barry from across the hall) had actually seen the penguin while snorkeling! Would that be cool or what? Hopefully we’ll have that opportunity tomorrow at Bartolome island where the colony of penguins actually resides.
Back aboard, the very nice morning excursion, followed by an excellent lunch of Ecuadorian specialties – including the awesome cerviche – then off to do our separate things for the afternoon until our 4 pm excursion to Baronness look out. Cathy headed to her massage – excellent, btw, Alicia has a wonderful pair of strong hands – Ed to load pictures to the computer, Maggi to read, Richard to nap. A perfect afternoon respite from our Xpeditions!!
Morning on Floreana
Team Zodiac strategy works again! Last zodiac off and the 6 of us had another private tour, this time with Jessica. An easy walk through rather shaded areas, we learned about a tree that protects from mosquitoes – it’s scent repels them – and watched for finches and warblers again. AT the first viewing area, we could see 30 or ore flamingoes, some feeding on shrimp (which is what gives them their pink color) others just standing in the shallow brackish water. We learned a very interesting fact – the reason why the flamingoes legs look like they work backwards (their ‘knee’ goes to the back) is that their ‘knee’ is actually much higher on the bird – almost up their body – and what we are seeing is actually similar to our ankle – which is why it moves the way it does. Who knew? (lots of things we are learning this trip! Too much to remember actually – so whatever little goofy nuggets we can retain will be found here for posterity!)
We moved on to the next viewing area, a platform perched higher up a hill with a panoramic view of the lagoon. Lots of photo op’s here – you could see the trails the flamingoes make while walking through the lagoon and eating. We noticed what looked like the number ‘48’ in their trails and through that was pretty amazing since Cathy was turned 47 – just beginning her 48th year – that day! (ok – it’s a stretch – but hey – come on – it was close enough to be noted!!)
Next, our little troop moved on to the beach on the other side of Floreana where there were lots of stingrays in the water, plus a shark and a few giant turtles. The beach was white and sandy, and it was the first time we could clearly see the turtle tracks and nests that they made to lay their eggs. The tracks are eerily reminiscent of ATV or 4WD tire treads – leading up to the dunes where they dig a huge whole, lay their eggs then move back to the sea. The water at this beach was very clear with little tide – we all wished we could stay there to snorkel with the animals.
But, alas, that was not to be. Off we hiked, back over the small hill to the landing beach where we had left our snorkel gear. Maggi, Cathy & Richard all suited up in wet suits – Ed decided to forgo the suit and handle the water like the polar bear he really is – snorkel equipment at the ready – we headed out to the water. Temperature was nice – warm enough not to wear the suit, but the sun is so strong and there was talk of jelly fish, so we decided to be safe rather than sorry. Ed took off, even without his vest, and Richard followed. Maggi and Cathy stayed closer to shore trying to get the hang of the equipment. After a few attempts of panicked water spurting, Cathy got the hang of it (blowing up the vest really helped with the panic feeling), but Maggi decided it just wasn’t for her. So as the boys headed out with the underwater cameras, frolicking with sea lions (one brushed past both Ed and Richard), Cathy practiced a little bit here and there (managing not to drown or cough up any sea water), Maggi enjoyed the water and conversation with the other bathers. I was finally let out of my room and enjoyed a few moments basking in the sun on the beach. There weren’t any wet suits small enough for me, so I wasn’t allowed in the water. That was probably a good thing since I’m thinking some of those bigger fish might like a small pup for fish food. Plus, those sea lions…..Bavarian pups might sound like a nice dessert for them! I was happy enough just to bask in the fresh air, sand and look out at the water from somewhere other than the cabin for a while.
On our way back in the zodiac, we had our first penguin sighting! Yea! A penguin on Cathy’s birthday – how perfect!! We found out later that a few people (Barry from across the hall) had actually seen the penguin while snorkeling! Would that be cool or what? Hopefully we’ll have that opportunity tomorrow at Bartolome island where the colony of penguins actually resides.
Back aboard, the very nice morning excursion, followed by an excellent lunch of Ecuadorian specialties – including the awesome cerviche – then off to do our separate things for the afternoon until our 4 pm excursion to Baronness look out. Cathy headed to her massage – excellent, btw, Alicia has a wonderful pair of strong hands – Ed to load pictures to the computer, Maggi to read, Richard to nap. A perfect afternoon respite from our Xpeditions!!
2/25 Evening on board
Back on board, we are greeted with frozen drinks and cookies. Yum! Then we head to the cabins to get ready for dinner. As we were organizing there was knock on the door – Maggi all excited – in only her t-shirt – “There’s a giant friggin’ turtle out the window!” Ed and Cathy go racing back to her cabin – and – she’d locked herself out with Richard in the bathroom! This is cute! So, there the 3 of them stand, Maggi in a t-shirt, pounding on the door, trying to explain to our fellow passengers that we are trying to see a turtle!!! Of course, by the time they get to the window, the turtle was gone!
After that excitement, the night was uneventful! Met in Discovery for per-dinner drinks, shared our Captain’s Club bottle of champagne, dinner in Darwin’s, then drinks in Discovery and on the back deck. Joined up with Pedro and Eliana and spent an enjoyable end of our evening under the stars.
After that excitement, the night was uneventful! Met in Discovery for per-dinner drinks, shared our Captain’s Club bottle of champagne, dinner in Darwin’s, then drinks in Discovery and on the back deck. Joined up with Pedro and Eliana and spent an enjoyable end of our evening under the stars.
2/25 Espanola Island
Zodiac call at 4 pm precisely- we hooked up with Ellen and Michelle again and solidified our “Team Zodiac” strategy by grabbing the last zodiac to Espanola. Private tour! Only the 6 of us and Giovanna, our Naturalist for the afternoon. As we approached the island, we were greeted by a colony of sea lion, slots playing in the water all around the zodiac. As we waited for the boat in front of us to unload, we trolled along the jetty landing area looking at Sally Lightfoot crabs and watching the sea lions play with he zodiac.
After a few minutes wait, we all hopped off the zodiac on the jetty like rock formation and began walking down the path, careful to step around the bright red crabs and marine iguanas in our path.
Today’s activity is a 2-hour walk around the island to a blow hole on the other side. It’s a rough hike because most of it will be over rocks and boulders. The bonus with our small group is we’re all pretty athletic and can handle the terrain fairly easily.
We begin our exploration on a sandy beach right off the jetty filled with a colony of sea lions. They are adorable, but a little frightening when they start coming toward you – especially when there are so many of them on the beach with their babies. BTW, I’m staying hidden away – so far – so good – my “out of sight, out of mind” strategy seems to be working quite well so far – let Ed and Cathy deal with these monstrous beasts!
So – here is the wildlife overload! Our walk through Espanola was just too incredible to really describe in words. We saw the sea lions (probably 200 on each of 2 beaches), marine iguanas, Sally Lightfoot crabs (SLC), BFBs, Nasca Boobies (which Cathy thought they were calling NASCAR boobies…..did she really get her hearing checked?), finches and mocking birds. The amazing thing is that none of them were afraid of us as predators, you could get as close as you wanted to most – although we weren’t supposed to get closer than 5 or 6 feet. But that proved nearly impossible as the animals were all over the path and there were instances when you had to step over the iguanas trying to cool off in the shade – or walk around boobies nesting. You never knew where to look – over here is a BFB mommy with 2 chicks under her wings to keep cool, over there, a male marine iguana perched on a rock, up ahead under the brush, more iguanas resting; BFBs everywhere, chicks (that look like goslings), full grown with the startling blue feet. Then there was the abandoned egg at the top of the hike – near the albatross “landing strip. So sad, but the necessary evils of survival of the fittest.
After walking along the rocky shore filled with SLCs, and climbing along on boulders and rocks through the scrubby vegetation in search of finches and warblers (which we found along with a pair of mating lizards), we arrived at the bluffs on the other side of the island overlooking the water. A Short rest sitting on really HOT rocks, but enjoying a good breeze, and we were off again for the completion of our hike. (Along the way, unbeknownst to us, Richard really had to go! In his initial talk, Jorge had jokingly showed us a picture of the bushes and told us this was Galapagos bathroom. Richard took that to heart and wanted to use the bushes. Maggi steadfastly refused to let him “introduce anything foreign” into the island. So, after a few more painful minutes, Maggi ended up chugging down her water bottle and giving it to Richard to use. He then transported it back to the ship in his back pocket!)
The 2nd half of the walk was a spectacular as the first with various creatures basking in the sun or lounging under bushes to avoid the heat. We passed by a magnificent blow hole, saw many iguanas, and, as we were passing by a couple of sea lions, we spied a plastic bottle laying empty on the beach. Geovanna retrieved it using our walking stick as protection (the bulls can be very aggressive).
By the time we made it back to the sea lion beach to get our zodiac, the tide had come in – as well as the sea lions! They had moved inland and were blocking our path. We had to pick our way off the trail through rocks to get back to the jetty. The sea lions are playful creatures, but you don’t want to mess with them r their babies. Speaking of babies, at the 2nd beach, a teeny baby, maybe 2 weeks old, was crying for it’s mother. We stood mesmerized as it went from female to female trying to feed and then begin chased off. We left without knowing whether it found it s mother or not – but Geovanna said it was normal and that the mother was probably out fishing or just ignoring the pup.
The tide being in meant we now had a semi-wet landing! We had to time our “run” to the zodiac with the waves. As we waited, we could see sea lions surfing in the waves – it was so surreal! You have to pinch yourself to convince yourself it’s real and not computer animation!
After a few minutes wait, we all hopped off the zodiac on the jetty like rock formation and began walking down the path, careful to step around the bright red crabs and marine iguanas in our path.
Today’s activity is a 2-hour walk around the island to a blow hole on the other side. It’s a rough hike because most of it will be over rocks and boulders. The bonus with our small group is we’re all pretty athletic and can handle the terrain fairly easily.
We begin our exploration on a sandy beach right off the jetty filled with a colony of sea lions. They are adorable, but a little frightening when they start coming toward you – especially when there are so many of them on the beach with their babies. BTW, I’m staying hidden away – so far – so good – my “out of sight, out of mind” strategy seems to be working quite well so far – let Ed and Cathy deal with these monstrous beasts!
So – here is the wildlife overload! Our walk through Espanola was just too incredible to really describe in words. We saw the sea lions (probably 200 on each of 2 beaches), marine iguanas, Sally Lightfoot crabs (SLC), BFBs, Nasca Boobies (which Cathy thought they were calling NASCAR boobies…..did she really get her hearing checked?), finches and mocking birds. The amazing thing is that none of them were afraid of us as predators, you could get as close as you wanted to most – although we weren’t supposed to get closer than 5 or 6 feet. But that proved nearly impossible as the animals were all over the path and there were instances when you had to step over the iguanas trying to cool off in the shade – or walk around boobies nesting. You never knew where to look – over here is a BFB mommy with 2 chicks under her wings to keep cool, over there, a male marine iguana perched on a rock, up ahead under the brush, more iguanas resting; BFBs everywhere, chicks (that look like goslings), full grown with the startling blue feet. Then there was the abandoned egg at the top of the hike – near the albatross “landing strip. So sad, but the necessary evils of survival of the fittest.
After walking along the rocky shore filled with SLCs, and climbing along on boulders and rocks through the scrubby vegetation in search of finches and warblers (which we found along with a pair of mating lizards), we arrived at the bluffs on the other side of the island overlooking the water. A Short rest sitting on really HOT rocks, but enjoying a good breeze, and we were off again for the completion of our hike. (Along the way, unbeknownst to us, Richard really had to go! In his initial talk, Jorge had jokingly showed us a picture of the bushes and told us this was Galapagos bathroom. Richard took that to heart and wanted to use the bushes. Maggi steadfastly refused to let him “introduce anything foreign” into the island. So, after a few more painful minutes, Maggi ended up chugging down her water bottle and giving it to Richard to use. He then transported it back to the ship in his back pocket!)
The 2nd half of the walk was a spectacular as the first with various creatures basking in the sun or lounging under bushes to avoid the heat. We passed by a magnificent blow hole, saw many iguanas, and, as we were passing by a couple of sea lions, we spied a plastic bottle laying empty on the beach. Geovanna retrieved it using our walking stick as protection (the bulls can be very aggressive).
By the time we made it back to the sea lion beach to get our zodiac, the tide had come in – as well as the sea lions! They had moved inland and were blocking our path. We had to pick our way off the trail through rocks to get back to the jetty. The sea lions are playful creatures, but you don’t want to mess with them r their babies. Speaking of babies, at the 2nd beach, a teeny baby, maybe 2 weeks old, was crying for it’s mother. We stood mesmerized as it went from female to female trying to feed and then begin chased off. We left without knowing whether it found it s mother or not – but Geovanna said it was normal and that the mother was probably out fishing or just ignoring the pup.
The tide being in meant we now had a semi-wet landing! We had to time our “run” to the zodiac with the waves. As we waited, we could see sea lions surfing in the waves – it was so surreal! You have to pinch yourself to convince yourself it’s real and not computer animation!
2/25 San Cristobal
After breakfast, Richard joined us and went ashore to San Cristobal island, one of 3 populated islands in the Galapagos. Maggi stayed aboard to relax and have some quiet time. The zodiac ride was fast – and fun. Sea lions were spotted lounging on many a “tender” boat – the little boats attached to the bigger sailing vessels in the harbor. When we approached the dock, you could see sea lions sunning on the steps up to the pier. We unloaded at a ramp that the sea lions must not have liked for the sun.
Hopped on a little bus to take us for a “2 minute” ride to the interpretation center. Open windows, breeze flowing through, it was very nice and comfortable. The bus took us through the town – and in 2 minutes we were on the outskirts of the town by the beach and the lighthouse at the center. A nice little diversion, the center has a self guided pictorial history of the Galapagos, from the plate shifts that began the development to the volcanic eruptions that created the island chain, all the way through the Spaniards, Darwin and up to today. There is an absolutely fantastic map at the entrance which is a caricature rendition of the entire island chain, complete with little penguins at Bartolome island and blue footed boobies in their habitats. No gift shop – the only time Cathy had ever wanted one!!! - to buy a paper copy of the map. Photos will have to suffice.
After 10 minutes, we were all done, and were going to head back into town to explore. But we stumbled on a nature walk, and after some debate, within which we (read: Cathy) saw on the sign it was an estimated 15 minute walk – we decided to strike out through the wilderness. It was a very fun walk, but these people need to get their estimations right. The 3 of us, walking fast, took 45 minutes and we didn’t even finish the darn thing!! Richard was in the lead with his stick – acting as the “web slayer” – and keeping Cathy safe from Spiders. There were many iguanas, a finch and a mockingbird along the route. The trail finally came to the coast, with a nice view of the lighthouse. Pictures, quick rest, water, then back down to the center. The original plan was to be back on the bus and in town within 15 minutes, now almost an hour later, we headed back with a bus full of other Xpedition passengers.
Disgorged into town, we all went our separate ways: us to the Internet café ($1.25 for 30 minutes) and Richard in search of a post office. The little town is picturesque sitting on the quiet harbor at the foot of the island. Completely focused on the tourist trade, there were many shops and a few restaurants to keep the shoppers and hungry happy. We shopped for a bit, found some t-shirts for Ed and some Tagua gifts for others, and ran into Richard in the process. We had originally thought of having a beer at one of the marina side restaurants, but then thought that would be silly, since we could go have one on the ship at no charge and be out in the water. So, off we went to the pier.
Arrived and got our gear, then jumped on the 2nd zodiac back to the ship. A sea lion jumped up on another zodiac that was docked right next to us. They are wild little creatures.
Back on board, we sat in the Discovery bar, had a beer/wine (this wine, Viu Manent is better than the San Carlos we had last night) and wrote a little in the journal. Checked out the Beagle Grill for lunch, salads, tuna salad sandwich, grilled hamburger, hot dog and jack fish (don’t know, little fillets, white, but fishy smelling). Decided to hit the buffet instead where we both had cerviche (really good – today with octopus and white fish, no shrimp), Ed had red snapper in a sauce with nuts, vegetables and salad. Afterwards, headed to the room for a bit then met up with Richard and Maggi to go get our snorkeling gear.
If only we would have had our cameras! Oh my gosh, all these people in a rather confined space trying to wiggle into neoprene suits over top their “street” clothes in 100 degree heat. Too funny. And then, trying on the masks. It was a sight to see, one that we wish we had captured on digital.
Later we listened to Jorge explain about the snorkeling excursions and the differences between High Activity and Low intensity (low being basically “sissy snorkeling”). Of course, we are all sissy snorkeling, but that’s ok. We will have an opportunity every day to get in the water according to Jorge and that will be a nice respite from the heat.
Hopped on a little bus to take us for a “2 minute” ride to the interpretation center. Open windows, breeze flowing through, it was very nice and comfortable. The bus took us through the town – and in 2 minutes we were on the outskirts of the town by the beach and the lighthouse at the center. A nice little diversion, the center has a self guided pictorial history of the Galapagos, from the plate shifts that began the development to the volcanic eruptions that created the island chain, all the way through the Spaniards, Darwin and up to today. There is an absolutely fantastic map at the entrance which is a caricature rendition of the entire island chain, complete with little penguins at Bartolome island and blue footed boobies in their habitats. No gift shop – the only time Cathy had ever wanted one!!! - to buy a paper copy of the map. Photos will have to suffice.
After 10 minutes, we were all done, and were going to head back into town to explore. But we stumbled on a nature walk, and after some debate, within which we (read: Cathy) saw on the sign it was an estimated 15 minute walk – we decided to strike out through the wilderness. It was a very fun walk, but these people need to get their estimations right. The 3 of us, walking fast, took 45 minutes and we didn’t even finish the darn thing!! Richard was in the lead with his stick – acting as the “web slayer” – and keeping Cathy safe from Spiders. There were many iguanas, a finch and a mockingbird along the route. The trail finally came to the coast, with a nice view of the lighthouse. Pictures, quick rest, water, then back down to the center. The original plan was to be back on the bus and in town within 15 minutes, now almost an hour later, we headed back with a bus full of other Xpedition passengers.
Disgorged into town, we all went our separate ways: us to the Internet café ($1.25 for 30 minutes) and Richard in search of a post office. The little town is picturesque sitting on the quiet harbor at the foot of the island. Completely focused on the tourist trade, there were many shops and a few restaurants to keep the shoppers and hungry happy. We shopped for a bit, found some t-shirts for Ed and some Tagua gifts for others, and ran into Richard in the process. We had originally thought of having a beer at one of the marina side restaurants, but then thought that would be silly, since we could go have one on the ship at no charge and be out in the water. So, off we went to the pier.
Arrived and got our gear, then jumped on the 2nd zodiac back to the ship. A sea lion jumped up on another zodiac that was docked right next to us. They are wild little creatures.
Back on board, we sat in the Discovery bar, had a beer/wine (this wine, Viu Manent is better than the San Carlos we had last night) and wrote a little in the journal. Checked out the Beagle Grill for lunch, salads, tuna salad sandwich, grilled hamburger, hot dog and jack fish (don’t know, little fillets, white, but fishy smelling). Decided to hit the buffet instead where we both had cerviche (really good – today with octopus and white fish, no shrimp), Ed had red snapper in a sauce with nuts, vegetables and salad. Afterwards, headed to the room for a bit then met up with Richard and Maggi to go get our snorkeling gear.
If only we would have had our cameras! Oh my gosh, all these people in a rather confined space trying to wiggle into neoprene suits over top their “street” clothes in 100 degree heat. Too funny. And then, trying on the masks. It was a sight to see, one that we wish we had captured on digital.
Later we listened to Jorge explain about the snorkeling excursions and the differences between High Activity and Low intensity (low being basically “sissy snorkeling”). Of course, we are all sissy snorkeling, but that’s ok. We will have an opportunity every day to get in the water according to Jorge and that will be a nice respite from the heat.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)