Scoping out our options we find a couple of possibilities for lunch, but our explorations actually take us right to La Llotja, the former merchant’s guild building built in the 1400s. The architecture and design is what the Llotja in Valencia is based upon, and the gothic building here in Palma is said to be the most important example of secular gothic building in Europe.
An unexpected find – some of the guidebooks said the interior was only open for special events – so we consider ourselves lucky to be able to walk through the tiled floors with slender palm tree like pillars holding up the arched ceiling.
Ok, enough sightseeing, it’s lunch time! We’ve perused all the little cafes on the square where the Llotja is located, and they’re ok, but one restaurant back toward the palace caught out eye, so we wander back that way and find out they will be open in 5 minutes. Yay. Called el Tunel, because, well, it is located in a sort of tunnel, it’s a cute little place that has Pulpo con Huevos Rotos – octopus with broken eggs – which has caught Ed’s eye.
Of course, once we’re settled in and ready to order, guess what? No Pulpo con Huevos. Darn it, foiled again! So we go to the back up plan of Albondigas and Choricitos con Vino. If we want more we can order more, but for now that sounds good. And it is really, really good. The Albondigas – meatballs – are in a creamy sauce with almonds and the Choricitos are just that – little baby chorizo sausages cooked in wine. Between that and the bread, and this great garlic aioli, we are set.
Next! We are on to Es Balaurd the modern art museum. It’s a nice little walk through the city streets…
…to the Balaurd, which is housed in a modern concrete and glass building that has been built into the Sant Pere bastion (or balaurd in Catalan) that was part of the wall surrounding the city. We learn a new word when we get there, jubilado, which is retired, and it is a reduced priced ticket, so Ed gets in cheap!
The museum is made up of 3 floors, 2 permanent exhibits and 1 temporary. We head downstairs for the temporary exhibits – the first one called Ellos y Nosotros, them and us. It’s a bizarre collection of odd films and graphics depicting nudes, a guy creating toys from plastics or something, stylus rope lines in a maze that leads to a mirrored box and a section with pictures about the World’s richest dog. It’s modern all right. But the best thing is this motion picture that is running on the back wall. There is a camera on the side and you stick your head in the camera and say “oh,” like you are surprised. The camera takes your picture and puts it in the film. It is too cool. We had a blast watching this thing - just because it was so creative, and funny, and of course we have starring roles!
The next exhibit was all about the 125 years of the newspaper here, the Ultima Hora. It was a fascinating look back into history, from the first day they published until today. Literally today! They had complimentary copies of La Ultima Hora dated today, and a replica of the very first edition from May of 1893. We took both back with us (so I can practice my Spanish). Through photos lining the walls, and a display in the middle of the floor where an old tintype machine (with the original newspaper) was juxtaposed with a Mac at the other (with today’s edition), they told the complete story of journalism in Palma. Extremely well done.
Upstairs, the contemporariness continued. I was enamored with this iron sculpture of a little girl’s dress in front of a set of stairs, while Ed thought the graffiti spray painted sort of alien things by Joan Miro were of interest. Actually they had quite a large selection of Miro art, as well as Picasso, including some of his pottery that caught my eye, of course!
Another great piece was this 20 foot tall paintbrush with little windows cut out, signifying??? An apartment building? Who knows, but it was interesting to look at.
Fun day! Topped off by a great sailaway and a wonderful dinner at Prime C, the specialty steak restaurant, where our sweet hostess, Djhoanna has asked the chef to make us Filipino food (because we were talking with her about how much we love Filipino food). We had no idea what he would make, and our waiter has asked me if I want the food for my main course, which should have been a hint. I didn’t catch it, and ordered lamb chops as well, oh my God! The chef made us Lumpia (fried spring rolls) and Pancit, which is the best noodle dish we’ve ever had. Spicy, sweet, with little meat and chicken pieces. Oh my gosh, it was so good, I’ve asked for the recipe! And so much, that we took the lamb back to the cabin for snacks the next day!
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