Hanging out in reception at the hotel, we chat briefly with a couple of groups of people are heading to the Jewel of the Seas for the Thanksgiving cruise (more power to ya!). Seems all of them are at the Villa Herrencia last minute. They all had a different hotel booked, but just like our back up hotel, they were canceled unexpectedly at the last minute and ended up here. Personally, we’re happy we are here and not stuck out in Condado at a chain hotel, and they all seem to be satisfied as well. Our room is finally ready, we wish everyone a bon voyage, and head up the stairs to our rooms.
Oh my! These rooms are the best! 2 bedrooms, separated by a living area and a sitting area, under an awning right off the master that opens up onto the terrace. It’s a great space – with even greater A/C. We couldn’t be happier. And as it is raining cats and dogs, we’re extra special happy because we can stay here comfortably all afternoon if the rain doesn’t let up.
But, as we are wont to do – we don’t sit still. Ricardo shows us where the grocery store is located, and also shows us where a local music and dance show is held every Sunday. He says it will go on evening in the rain because the performers are under a tent. Hmmm, we may just check that out. The rain seems to be ending for a bit, so we strike out for the grocery store. While we have noticed some streets closed off, and generators in some streets, you really can’t ascertain the damage that has been done during the daylight. We can’t tell if power is on or off –but at the grocery store, it smacks you in the face. There is nothing perishable anywhere. And I mean nothing – nothing at all. No fruits or vegetables or meats or even frozen foods. The shelves are bare (excuse the blurry picture, we didn’t want to seem too obvious when we took it).
The empty shelves just bring home what a horrible crisis Hurricane Maria was – and still is. Terrible! We are only here for beer, which we decide to come back to buy after we go up to see the local music. Making our way back out onto the street, we start to see more damage – buildings boarded up, roads closed, generators, red warning tape closing sidewalks. While it is getting better, it is still a disaster area. We reach the tiny Calle Tanca as the rain begins again in earnest. There is indeed a local band playing, with a couple of little kids on drums even. And while the performers are under a tent, we are not – and there isn’t anywhere to sit undercover to listen and watch, so we abort and go back to the grocery store for the beer. By the time we manage to make it back to the hotel, we are drenched. The streets are teeming with water – a huge stream of which is rushing down the street where the hotel is located. There are flood warnings until early evening (this island just can’t catch a break), but we’re in for the rest of the afternoon – after we squeeze the water out of our clothes and shoes.
Fortunately, the rain starts to abate as we are heading to dinner, and even better, the restaurant we want to go to is across the street – a 2 minute walk. So, even though it’s still sprinkling, we’re at the door of Rosa De Triana without barely getting our feet wet. The place is empty when we walk in, which worries us that they aren’t even open, but the waitress greets us warmly and escorts us to a lovely table in the back.
The building is one of the oldest structures in San Juan, built in 1523. It was the first city hall and the cellars were used as the first jail of the Capital. It’s a lovely little venue, made all the more special by having it all to ourselves. Our waitress Maria (yes, she’s heard all the hurricane jokes) took great care of us. We ordered beer and wine to start, and then tried to order some local specialties. We wanted to try Mofongo or Alpacerrias (small fried turnovers), but they are out of those and many other items, because plantains (the main ingredient of both) are in scarce supply on the island. The local farms were all destroyed, and the supply hasn’t picked back up yet. We’re understanding, we’re just happy someplace is open for us to eat. We go ahead and order Calamari for Ed and Chorizo and mushrooms with wine for me (we’ll share them both). Maria comes back and tell us the Calamari is tainted, and they can’t serve it. Better safe than sorry – thank you. So we go with the Mahi with Guava sauce – and aren’t disappointed with either dish.
The bread makes for a very nice dessert, as we are dipping it in the leftover mushroom sauce and guava sauce. Good choice. As we are finishing another couple comes in and orders the Paella – which their hotel had recommended. Yay, so glad they have other customers, as it is really sad that it is so empty here (and we can only imagine everywhere else) on a Sunday night.
Needless to say, its a fast walk back to the hotel, and we are soon sitting out on our patio, under the awning, enjoying the moderately wet evening. After the mosquitoes chase us inside, we ensconce ourselves in the master bedroom and watch football for the rest of the evening. A perfect end to a perfect day in San Juan.
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