Last port before the crossing! We aren’t scheduled to arrive in Ponta Delgada until 10:00, so we are up and raring to go as we sail in. We actually dock early, around 9:30 or so, and we watch the port officials all milling about on the dock. As the gangways come out, even before all the other paraphernalia is set or officials board, the main Port Official hollers out that the ship is cleared for guests and crew. The ship security officer questions him, and he again states we’re cleared. Cool – we are out of here.
Down to deck 2 we go, where Gio, one of the cruise staff says we aren’t clear yet and we have to go back up to deck 4 to wait. We try to explain to him that we just watched and heard the Port official clear us, but he gets snotty and says, no, we’re not even docked yet, and once we are it will be 45 more minutes until we’re clear, because we weren’t supposed to be off the ship until 10:30. Really? You want to start that with us? We politely tell him he is incorrect, but he’s adamant now and forces us up the steps – not even to the landing above deck 3 – but all the way up to deck 4. OK buddy, we’ll stand there, but it won’t be for 45 minutes we can assure you.
And, not 5 minutes later, here comes another staff member who tells us if we are ready to go, we can go out now. As we hit deck 2, there is Gio walking toward to the stairwell, and we manage to bite our tongues and not say anything, but I had the strongest urge to stick my tongue out at him. It’s one thing if the ship isn’t ready to start disembarking, it’s another thing to lie. Don’t lie. ‘Nuff said.
We’re out and off to Ilha Verde, where we traditionally rent our cars. On the way we pass 3 other rental places, some with cheaper advertised rates, but we know these guys, and they are reliable and helpful, so we aren’t changing. There is an Aida ship in port – fortunately for us at the crappy pier all the way around the breakwater wall – but still in earlier than us, so there is already a line up at Ilha Verde. As we wait, I realize I forgot the power cord and holder for the phone. Crap. And this after Ed asked me 3 times if I had the car stuff. I was thinking the maps and directions and rental reservation, not the cords. Crap.
After some discussion – I know I can run back to the ship, get the cords and be back here before the rental process is completed – we decide that we should be ok with battery power and if need be, I’ll just buy the $10 TravelPass from Verizon. That settled, we wait patiently in line and then end up with an upgraded Mazda CX, so it’s almost like being at home with our Mazda. Nice car – and it has my retracting side mirrors! Oh I so want those retracting mirrors.
Soon we are out on the road, heading today for the middle of the island – one of the few places we have not been on the island of Sao Miguel. We’ve explored Sete Cidades a few times, been to Furnas twice, and now we are going to Lagoa do Fogo – Fire Lake in the center of the island. We had originally planned to visit a pineapple plantation, but then we read that all the Ship tours were going there, so we ditched that one in a hurry. Our revised plan is to drive straight up to Lagoa do Fogo, then onto Ribeira Grande for our traditional grocery shopping and lunch.
The first part of the plan works only so well in that TIM can’t locate Lagoa do Fogo, he can only find the restaurant of the same name, and it is located on the other side of the mountain range. So, of course, TIM sends us up toward the restaurant on the highway roads. I know this isn’t right, and have the onerous task of telling Ed we need to turn around. Sigh. Well, at least I’ve got written directions from the hiking book we have at home, so I do know exactly where to go, even if TIM is determined to scotch our day.
Once back on the right track, it is easy to follow the printed directions and take the correct exit off the highway – following the sign postings on up into the mountains. We had forgotten how beautiful this island is – with the incredibly deep green fields lacing the mountain sides, juxtaposed against the azure blue of the sea and the stark black and white stone block buildings. Even driving along the highway, which is more a large 4-lane road than a true highway, the views are wonderful everywhere you look.
Almost immediately after existing the highway, we start climbing up the slopes to Pico da Barrosa. The road is narrow and steep, winding us up and around different ridges and through high elevation farm and grazing land.
Every turn brings a new and beautiful vista, but there is no where to stop on this twisty-turny lava rock lined narrow road, especially with a line of cars behind us, so I just hang the phone out the window and click away as we rise higher and higher up the slopes of Pico da Barrosa.
We’re up so high, we’re above the clouds. It is fantastic up here. Fortunately for us, a van up a head stops in the middle of the road for pictures. So we stop behind them and take some pictures of our own. This helps in 2 ways: 1) we get to take pictures back across the island with views to both the North and the South, and 2) it allows all the cars behind us to go ahead so we don’t have to worry about holding up the line of traffic.
We finally crest the mountain and reach a parking area that gives us our first glimpse of Lagoa do Fogo, formed in the volcanic crater after an eruption in 1563. Amazing! That’s all we can say.
On the other side of the road, there is a perfect panoramic view of the coastal areas of the island. We’re so high, it feels like we are flying, looking down over the landscape from plane windows. The wind is fierce up here too – as you can tell from the awful selfie – but it is worth fighting the wind for this kind of scenery.
The next scenic point takes us down the mountain a few hundred meters, but still with fantastic views. There doesn’t seem to be a bad angle in which to take pictures of the coast or the lake filling the caldera, ringed by the volcanic cliffs.
Further down we drive, stopping at every viewpoint possible. The last lakeview pull over is super crowded with cars double parked everywhere. We manage to pull into a space and I hop out to take pictures. This is where there is a little trail that leads down to the water, but I’ve read it can be “inhospitable” and quite frankly, it looks like one of those long slogs on a little goat path that won’t accomplish anything but beat us up.
On down we go….
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