Instead of walking back to the subway from the Embarcadero, we decide to take it easy on ourselves and hop a trolley car. We’ve blogged about the trolley line here before (see the San Francisco posts from June 2013), but without much detail. The city has purchased old trolley cars from all over the world, and lovingly restored them to run on their city lines. They are really quite incredible, and a great way to traverse through the city. We were on a car from Cincinnati (a PCC car) and Ed is in his glory. These old streetcars are his passion – and he worked on similar cars in his youth in Pittsburgh (even drove a few around the tram yard after hours – or so I’m told). He enjoys himself thoroughly, especially listening to the driver talk to another passenger about the cars, the conditions, how they run, drive, etc.
Hopping off at Delores street, we walk (fortunately downhill) into the heart of the Mission District. Once a funky old not-so good neighborhood to be in after dark, it’s now being gentrified by boomers and millennials (but it’s still funky in a lot of areas!). Our goal is the Mission Delores, the oldest surviving structure in San Francisco with original adobe walls and brick tiles still in place. 
Inside, it’s a lovely Mission, stark and simplistic in comparison with the grand cathedrals of Europe, but beautiful in its simplicity. Christmas decorations, still in place add a little festiveness to the somber altar.
The stained glass windows are incredible pieces of art. The two shown below glow with the sunlight, while windows (not pictured) that pay a more black and white homage to each individual saint and the town named after them.
Back outside, through the covered walkway with period drawings and a wonderful diorama from the 1939 World’s Fair depicting what the area around the Mission looked like in the 1790’s (all farmland, cattle and settlements, we make our way to the cemetery. At one time, much larger than it is today, the cemetery was consolidated into what it is today with burials through the late 1800’s. Many graves hold infants and children, so many died so young from illnesses and other calamities. The statue in the center of the cemetery is of Father Junipero Serra, the founder of this Mission and 6 others beginning in the Baja peninsula.
The first governor under Mexican rule and the first Mayor of San Francisco are buried here, along with three victims of the Vigilantes, the most famous of whom is James “Yankee” Sullivan, the bare knuckle fighter and boxer who was immortalized in an old boxing drawing.
After leaving the serene memorial garden, we head back out toward Mission Delores Park, where I’ve read that on sunny days you can hang out on the lawn with a great view of the city. Unfortunately, 1/2 the park is under construction, and the area that is open has no benches or seating areas. It’s lovely, sunny, and warm with no clouds – there are tons of people hanging around, lounging on the grass, but we’re not so much into that. Plus – I’m not getting the view – all we see are houses lining the Mission district streets. What gives?
We decide to head back to the subway – with a pit stop at Java Supreme (thank you Yelp!) for a coffee/Mocha (for me) warm up! Great little dive coffee shop with Mama and Papa running it. Loved it.
After our brief respite, we struck out toward Mission and on up to 16th street to the BART station. On our way we got a good feel for the funkiness of Mission District life – with all sorts of little Hispanic and Asian groceries, eateries and other daily necessities. We also stumbled onto Clarion Alley – one of the alley’s painted with Graffiti art. I had read about them, but didn’t have the heart to drag Ed all over the District to find them (his back is still not 100%). So, stumbling on this alley on the way to the subway was great luck.
The paintings were fantastic – all up and down the alley. A really great artistic expression!
It’s quick back to San Bruno on the Subway. Off at the last stop – can’t get lost 
we start the trek back to the hotel. This time we peruse the different restaurants, preparing for our 2 days here at the end of the cruise, as well as stop at Safeway to stock up the room (and the cabin). OMG. The line! There must be 30 people in line to check out – and we both decide it’s not worth it. We can go back to the liquor store across the street. Not the best selection, but it will do!
We decided to also hit Trader Joe’s, which is in the same center as Safeway, just in case there is anything there. I find a great bottle of Sauv Blanc from Chile – TJ’s own brand – for $3.49! Motherlode! I grab another bottle of Kono for the ship, Ed grabs some beer – and we are good to go. Stocked and ready!
Later on that evening, we head across the street to Zorba’s for dinner – a fantastic Greek/Italian joint. Ed and Sunny enjoy the libations…
…and we gorge ourselves on Gyro and Souvlaki platters. Way too much food – but oh so good!
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