Back on the Vaporetto, we head to the Fondamente Nove stop so that we can walk past our former hotel (from 3 years ago) and head over to San Marco and then wind our way back to the hotel. The scenery on the ride back is just great – we go past a small uninhabited island that looks like it is being farmed for something (those red plants you see in the pictures), as well as pass close by the S. Michele cemetery, taking tons of pictures along the way!
Once back on the island, we follow Sigis, our assistant tour guide, through the narrow alleys, past the Piccolo Vecellio where they stayed when we last met here….
…and on through the city gazing at all the wonderful and typical Venetian scenery (including a bored Gondolier texting on his mobile phone!).
On to San Marco we go. And surprisingly with 4 ships in port, it really wasn’t all that crowded. And lots less pigeons (thank heavens!!! Ugh, I hate those things!). We snap our way through the square, with the Doges palace renovations almost completed, you can see most of the façade now, the incredible façade of the buildings on the square, and the Campanile towering above it all.
A quick photo stop at the Florian Café…
…and we are off in search of the Scala di Bovolo – the snail shell staircase. It’s an incredibly gorgeous structure, that when it was open, provided a fabulous view of Venice from the top tower. Unfortunately it has fallen into some disrepair and has been closed for renovation since 2007. But still, just seeing it from the outside is incredible…of course, that is if you can find it! It is hidden away in a narrow alleyway a short hike from San Marco. After making a wrong turn and heading too close to Accademia, we backtracked and found the right pathway! Which actually turned out even better than the original route, because we ended up walking past the Fenice Theatre, a Venetian landmark (and the subject of a great Berendson book, The City of Falling Angels).
Finally winding our way back into alleys and narrow walkways, we land in the courtyard of the Scala. It is really impressive! The only regret is that we didn’t do this on previous trips when we might have been able to climb it! Oh well!
It’s a quick walk back to the Rialto vaporetto stop where we catch the #1 line up the Grand Canal. There really isn’t anything like that! Touristy as all – but then again – filled with locals using the vaporetto for transportation, it’s just a magical way to spend 1/2 and hour or more watching the commerce and grand palazzos slowly pass by on the canal. And of course snapping tons’o pix!
Great day!!! We make a pit stop at the coop for beverage supplies, then head back to the hotel to freshen up.
Out on the street again, we go in search of a drink. This time our favorite little cichetti bar is open – so we hang there for wine (2.50 euros for a good glass) and beer..
…then onto Rio Novo, the great little restaurant around the corner from our hotel that fixed Octopus special for Ed in May. This time we order off the menu, vegetables, grilled sepia, pasta and tons of fabulous food!
Finally though, the evening had to come to an end and we strolled back to our hotel, our Venetian holiday with Gaby and Sigis almost over.
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