Today is our exploring day. We arrive in Livorno – normally the port from which you would tour Pisa or Florence or Siena. But no, not us, we have to be different. Of course! What else would you expect? Today – we are going to Bologna! 2 hours away, almost as close to Venice – where we started this cruise – as it is to Livorno!
Off we go, first thing in the morning. Our car rental is waiting for us right outside the ship as planned. We hop in the car, mark the port as a favorite in Alice to find our way back, and head out onto the Autostrada. It is definitely a 2+ hour drive – out past Pisa and Florence then north through the mountains and finally down into Bologna. The drive is fabulous – the typical Tuscan scenery flashing by in the low lands and the beautiful mountains and bridges and ravines as we go higher into the center of the country.
After taking a 2nd mortgage to pay the tolls, we exit the Autostrada and immediately miss our first turn. Argh. Oh well, Alice “recalculates” and we actually follow the signs into the Centre of Bologna. Of course there is a catch though – Bologna has a heavily restricted driving area. Most of the old town is restricted only to permits. No one else can drive there - if you are staying in a hotel, you can drive in, but you must get a permit from the hotel in order for your car to be allowed inside the restricted area. There are very steep fines for not following these rules. We’ve done research in advance and have a list of parking garages – but we’re not 100% convinced that Alice has this programmed into her little GPS mind. Thus we only follow her so far until CPS turns on.
Alice does get us all the way to the ring road, which, as the name implies, circles the outside of the restricted area of Bologna. The parking garages are all close to this road, and following the only little map we have (which we copied out of our huge Italy road map book)we follow the ring road around from where we entered and manage to successfully navigate our way to the Agosto VIII Piazza parking deck. Phew! From here we are a short walk away from the main historic district.
Again, following our trusty little map, we head down Ave. Indipendenza to the Piazza Maggiore – the main plaza in town. It is Sunday, and unbeknownst to us, Bologna apparently shuts down all the streets in the old town on the weekends. There are barriers and guardia at each main entranceway to the town –with banners that read something to the effect of take old town back to the people, or something. Heck, better for us! It’s all pedestrian everywhere we want to go.
We stroll down this main artery and come upon a crowded little bar where we decide to stop for cappuccino. It is just barely past 10:30, so we figure we’re still safe to order it (10:30 being the “cut-off” for any “real” Italian to be drinking cappuccino). It is hot and delicious and hits the spot! And cheap! It’s the cheapest cappuccino we’ve had in a long time – only 1.30 euro each!
After warming up with our coffee (it is really cold here – and overcast – not at all like in Livorno where it looked like the sun might shine. And I did not dress appropriately thank you! Did not check the weather so I have on my capri’s and a short sleeve shirt – I do have my rain jacket and scarf, but that’s it. Ack! Ed of course is fine in long pants, dark shirt and windbreaker) we brave the cool air and head out into the Piazza.
Bologna is said to be the 2nd prettiest city in Italy, behind Venice, and we can see why. They have miles (well, kilometers) of porticos that run all around the city. You can easily navigate your way to the furthest edges of the city walls inside these beautiful arched walkways. Very medieval, incredible architecture, and something different to see at every turn.
Today, in the Piazza, there is some large fundraising festival for starving children in Sudan Africa. We have a little flyer that we picked up – and there is something to do with food, with starvation, and with plates – thousands of which are being lined up in the middle of the piazza as part of this event. There are also big billboard type signs around the Piazza explaining the plates, and painting them blue….well…who knows, but it is huge and impressive nonetheless!
Around the corner from the Piazza is the Fontana del Nettuno– Neptune fountain. Neptune has some connection to Bologna, thus the huge fountain, we never figured out the connection – since – well Bologna is totally landlocked – but the the huge fountain is an incredible piece of artwork, especially with the old style architecture in the background.
Next we head toward the Two Towers that dominate the Bologna skyline. As long as you can find the towers, you can orient your location within the city. Both built in the 12th Century, the Asinelli tower is the tallest of the 20 remaining towers in Bologna. You can climb to the top (498 stairs) for what is said to be an incredible view of the city. We’re athletic, but we’re not that athletic! Not to mention, the entry way to the steps looks so claustrophobic, I couldn’t even make it up there to pay the 3 euro entrance fee. Nah, we’ll take it on good authority the view is fabulous!
The other tower, The tower of the Garisenda, is half the size, but has been closed to the public for years because it has a lean of over 10 feet. Fairly precarious.
Done with our tower visiting, we continue to wander around the town, taking in the fabulous architecture of the Palazzo D’Accusio, the town hall, the churches and the buildings lining the roads and porticos of Bologna.
Soon, it is time to think about food. We’ve wandered enough, and we now need to fortify ourselves for the drive back to the ship. After perusing some cafes and restaurants with touristic menus, we settle on a little restaurant we had found off the beaten path, on a little square by a museum: Trattoria Corte Galluzzi. It was out of the way and deserted when we arrived. We sat outside with the only other customers, a couple just beginning their meal. The menu had looked great – and it got even better when I spied Artichokes Alla Romagna as an appetizer. I’m all in! Ed finds cheese and meat antipasti – and we are both set!
Everything is excellent. A perfect meal! And, by the time we leave, the place is packed. There is a line waiting for tables! Perfect timing for our escape and journey back to the ship!
The drive back was even easier than going. Found the Autostrada with only one wrong turn, then ended up missing our turn for the A12 – but that was a good thing, because we found the smaller road out of Florence (in the direction of Scindisi) that took us through the peaceful countryside, with a lot less traffic, and a lot less tolls, and directly into Livorno. Once back in town, we drove around a bit and found a grocery store for supplies then headed back to the port.
Since we had marked our starting location, we used Alice to direct us back to the ship. We backtrack back toward the port, but instead of going around the circle to head left to the Valessini port, Alice tells us to go right – back toward the autostrada. Then left into the port area. We end up at some other port way the heck away from where we need to be. Hmmmm…..we ditch Alice! CPS is in control now – back we go around the circle to Valessini where we leave the car in the appointed area and head back to the ship! When we get to the cabin and look at the GPS turn by turn instructions? Alice was trying to have us get on a ferry to cross the port!!!! Yeah, well, there’s something to say for regular maps and just paying attention to where you want to begin and end!
Back on the ship – standard evening routine, sashimi every night for app’s – I’m in 7th heaven!
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