Saturday, October 20, 2012

10/8 Afternoon in Venezia

Back on the Vaporetto, we head to the Fondamente Nove stop so that we can walk past our former hotel (from 3 years ago) and head over to San Marco and then wind our way back to the hotel.  The scenery on the ride back is just great – we go past a small uninhabited island that looks like it is being farmed for something (those red plants you see in the pictures), as well as pass close by the S. Michele cemetery, taking tons of pictures along the way!

Once back on the island, we follow Sigis, our assistant tour guide, through the narrow alleys, past the Piccolo Vecellio where they stayed when we last met here….

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…and on through the city gazing at all the wonderful and typical Venetian scenery (including a bored Gondolier texting on his mobile phone!).

On to San Marco we go.  And surprisingly with 4 ships in port, it really wasn’t all that crowded.  And lots less pigeons (thank heavens!!! Ugh, I hate those things!).  We snap our way through the square, with the Doges palace renovations almost completed, you can see most of the façade now, the incredible façade of the buildings on the square, and the Campanile towering above it all.

A quick photo stop at the Florian Café…

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…and we are off in search of the Scala di Bovolo – the snail shell staircase.  It’s an incredibly gorgeous structure, that when it was open, provided a fabulous view of Venice from the top tower.  Unfortunately it has fallen into some disrepair and has been closed for renovation since 2007.  But still, just seeing it from the outside is incredible…of course, that is if you can find it!  It is hidden away in a narrow alleyway a short hike from San Marco.  After making a wrong turn and heading too close to Accademia, we backtracked and found the right pathway!  Which actually turned out even better than the original route, because we ended up walking past the Fenice Theatre, a Venetian landmark (and the subject of a great Berendson book, The City of Falling Angels).

Finally winding our way back into alleys and narrow walkways, we land in the courtyard of the Scala.  It is really impressive!  The only regret is that we didn’t do this on previous trips when we might have been able to climb it!  Oh well!

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It’s a quick walk back to the Rialto vaporetto stop where we catch the #1 line up the Grand Canal. There really isn’t anything like that!  Touristy as all – but then again – filled with locals using the vaporetto for transportation, it’s just a magical way to spend 1/2 and hour or more watching the commerce and grand palazzos slowly pass by on the canal. And of course snapping tons’o pix!

Great day!!! We make a pit stop at the coop for beverage supplies, then head back to the hotel to freshen up.

Out on the street again, we go in search of a drink.  This time our favorite little cichetti bar is open – so we hang there for wine (2.50 euros for a good glass) and beer..

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…then onto Rio Novo, the great little restaurant around the corner from our hotel that fixed Octopus special for Ed in May.  This time we order off the menu, vegetables, grilled sepia, pasta and tons of fabulous food! 

Finally though, the evening had to come to an end and we strolled back to our hotel, our Venetian holiday with Gaby and Sigis almost over.  Sad smile

10/8 Sant Erasmo

Up bright and early – we have a busy day!  Breakfast at the hotel is a veritable feast – everything from savory to sweet – including eggs, pancetta, lots of Italian cold meats and cheeses! We fortify ourselves for our boat ride to Sant Erasmo and the ensuing bike ride.

We’ve mapped out our route and Vaporetto times.  Everything works so smoothly!  We take the 8:50 line 3 to Murano, changing there for the 9:34 line 13 to Sant Erasmo. 

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Perfect!  Not a hitch – except that its cloudier and chillier than we expected and Ed didn’t bring his jacket.  Ah well, it’s just a little cold!

We arrive in Sant Erasmo a little after 10 and set off down the road to Lato Azzurro, a small hotel where we will rent bikes and have cichetti later (they call it bicichetti!). 

Sant Erasmo is known as the vegetable garden of Serenissima.  The island is said to produce much of the vegetables were sold in Venice, including the famous purple artichoke.  It is peaceful, quiet and rustic, with only about 800 residents and no real motor vehicles to speak of, just little Ape’s (the mostly 3 wheel trucks that everyone uses to get around and haul things), scooters and bicycles.  It’s quiet, peaceful, bucolic – an excellent escape when you are tired of the hustle and bustle of Venice. 

We ride out on our bikes to circumnavigate the island.  There is really only one road – so no worries about getting lost.  Our first stop is the fortifications of the Maximilian tower, which is a restored fortress at the end of the island.  We stop here to admire the view….and for Ed to show us his Arnold Schwartzenegger impression (because he is SO tough without a jacket!!!).

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We spend the next hour sedately pedaling around the island, soaking up the pastoral fields, the glimpses of farm life and the waters surrounding the island.  There is no one about – just a few farmers in the fields.  The little road, nothing more than a narrow lane, is charming and empty of everything but us. The island reminds us so much of Holland, the scenery, the little canals, the weather.  The only thing missing are the windmills!

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Soon, we approach the little main town on the island.  Very sweet, very small, with one lovely church (with amazing carved wooden doors). 

Even with all the stopping and visiting and picture taking, it still takes us less than an hour to circumnavigate the whole island. We’re actually a little too early for our cichetti, so we take a pit stop at the park near the Vaporetto station to enjoy the scenery – and waste some time!

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As we make our way back to Lato Azzurro, we are surprised to see the Ruby Princess sailing into Venice!  What a coincidence!  There she is right in front of us! It’s nice to know she’s arrived.

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So, at last it’s time for cichetti!  Back at the hotel, we settle into the dining area for our “snacks”.  Oh my gosh!  Snacks is a total misnomer!  There is so much food, it is not even funny!  First we start with 2 platters of antipasto…

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Then we move onto fried vegetables with olives stuffed with meat and these delicious little cheese balls that we all (especially Sigis!!) enjoyed.

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Next there are 2 platters of bruschetta – toasted bread slices with totally fresh cherry tomatoes drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette.  It’s just too much – we can’t even finish the bruschetta – when out comes two platters of fried mozzarella cheese and little caprese skewers.  We seriously had to send those back. We were all stuffed! Not to mention beer and wine!  It was fantastic and a huge bargain (only 15 euros per person including the bike rental!)  amazing!

So now we are absolutely stuffed, and we have to run to get the vaporetto!  Which is probably a good thing – we can work off some of this food! Off we waddle, with some of us lagging behind Smile to the station….

Back aboard, we prepare ourselves to head back into the melee of Venice proper after our peaceful little Sant Erasmo respite. (see the next blog entry)

10/6-7 Another long, long travel day

We’re off!  Miami to Venice via Dusseldorf. The day starts off early enough in Ft. Lauderdale (drove down on Friday), we organize, repack our bags and head to Miami International around noon.  Flight isn’t until 4, but we can’t get seats assigned so the early to the airport, the better.  Check in was a breeze – got our seats and wandered off to the terminal to find someplace to eat – this will be our lunch/pre-dinner food since we figure we won’t have food on the plane until around 6ish.

Had an enjoyable meal at TGI Fridays, talking to a couple just off a Carnival cruise and then a British gentleman who lives in Bermuda.  Easy way to spend an hour or so before the flight to Dusseldorf!

Plane is off early – we end up scoring two rows of 2 seats each so we can spread out a little bit and sleep better.  The flight was the flight. Good, not too many babies screaming, managed a few hours of shut eye – then welcome to Dusseldorf!  We landed around 6:15 or so – and then had a 7 hour layover!  No way we were sitting in the airport for that long – so we stored our carryon bags with the left luggage facility and headed into Dusselfdorf. 

The weather is delightful!  what a great change from HHI.  It’s maybe 55 degrees – foggy – but oh its worth it for the cool temps!  Jackets are on and we’re reveling in the fresh breeze!  Sigh…

It’s a quick 10 minute train ride into the center of town.  Then we hop the subway to the old town.  Sadly it is only 7:30am on a Sunday morning, so there isn’t a darn thing open – anywhere – well besides the churches!  So we wander around a bit and explore the all but deserted town.  Took a few pix and then headed back to the main train station.

It was still a bit early to be going back to the airport, so we hung around the main train station for a while –grabbing a cappuccino at Mickey D’s.  Then back on the SS11 to the airport.  Grabbed our bags from left luggage and were back safe and sound inside the terminal with plenty of time to spare.

Managed to grab a quick breakfast/mid-morning snack of cheese bread and sausage rolled in flaky dough, then figured it was late enough (body time) to have a beer and wine.  Finally it was time for our Venice flight!  It of course was late (figures!!) and when we finally got to board the flight attendant had a coronary over all the carry on bags and forced us all to give them up and put them in the hold.  There was a minor revolt – but to no avail - she kept saying she had no room to store the bags on the plane, but all the overhead bins were completely empty!!! I managed to snag my medicine out of the carryon before she ripped it of my hands, but we still fretted through the 1 1/2 flight about everything that was in those carryon bags that we really, really couldn’t lose. 

Alls well that ends well though, the bags came off the carousel in Venice and we both breathed a huge sigh of relief. Off we go to the ACTV bus to Pizalle Roma – the mad rush ensues for luggage space and seats – sadly a group of folks on our plane didn’t make the bus (I felt bad, but it’s kind of survival of the fittest with those buses, so I’m sure they got the next one!).

Finally we are here!  We grab our bags and trundle over to the Olimpia where we are reunited with Gaby and Sigis in the beautiful hotel garden.  We spend an hour or so chatting, exchanging gifts and sharing a welcome drink!

Then we freshen up and off we go for drinks and dinner.  We wander over to Campo Santa Margerita near the University, where our favorite cichetti bar is located. Unfortunately it is closed, but we find a sports bar for a drink.

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Then next door to the sports bar is a typical Italian restaurant where the menu looks good, so we end up there for dinner.  Excellent choice – there is a special menu for 18 Euros with 3 courses that both Ed and Sigis get – Spaghetti di mare (mussels, clams and a mix of seafood), salad and then a whole fish!  I got fried olives stuffed with meat (very odd, but very good!) and Scallopine Limone.  Gaby had salad and gnocchi. All wonderfully prepared and perfect for our first night dinner!

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We head back to the hotel through the darkness of Venice and the small lanes, alleyways and bridges…..

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…LOL…not very photogenic with my little camera…but at least you might be able to get the idea.  It’s been a wonderful reunion, a fabulous first night in Venice and we are looking forward to a good night’s sleep and a fun day tomorrow exploring the outer islands of Venezia!