So, our wonderful hotel room, which we were so happy to be in and pleased with the location off the main road turns out to be sandwiched between two churches, one of which is about 100 yards from our balcony door, and both of which ring the church bells every hour on the hour, all through the night. Aw, jeez (excuse the pun). With the door open to keep the room cool, well, all we can say is we guess two out of three ain’t bad (don’t sing!) – luxurious, cool – but not peaceful! Tonight we keep the door shut regardless of the temps!
Onward to breakfast, which is quite the spread, and totally wasted on me, but everyone else enjoys it. Then onto the bus, where Pauline is excited because she didn’t get stuck in the staircase, so we are all on time and happy as we head out into the chilly morning to visit the Rasnov Fortress, set high above the town of Rasnov (which means village of Roses). This fortress was built in the 1300’s when the Saxons asked the Teutonic Knights, the Order of the Black Cross, to settle here to offer protection to the town, which kept being attacked and annihilated by intruders because of its strategic placement on the commercial route between Walachia and Transylvania. The Saxons gave the Knights supplies to build the fortifications, and the Knights gave them protection. The fort was unusual in this region because it was designed to be a refuge for extended periods of time. Similar to the first fortified church we visited in Calnic, this fort is much larger and at one time had over 80 houses where all the villagers could stay, a school and chapel where locals could hide during sieges. In the long history of the fortress, passed from the Knights to the Saxons to the Romanians, it is one of the only fortresses that was never conquered.
We arrive at the bottom of the hill to the fortress and hop on the little choo choo train that takes us up the hill, past the Dino Park where kids come to play on the huge Jurassic Park like dinosaurs (and where Cristina repeats over and over again, do not get out, and where of course the people sitting next to us ask, is this where we get out?) and finally to the fortress on the hill which is really large and imposing looking from this vantage point. We can see why the Knights built it up here on the hill!
The exterior and interior ramparts are quite apparent as we walk up the long hill to enter into the fortress. First, we enter through the exterior wall gate and curve our way up the path (and over rocky outcrops if we want to take a short cut, in through the interior ramparts to access the village. It’s so amazing! Just a teeny little smashed together medieval village. All cobblestone and cute houses safe within the huge stone walls, sitting at the apex of this hill with fantastic long views out across the valleys. You can imagine the Knights up here ready to protect the villagers (even though it definitely looks different down below now with a little more development that needs to be protected than in the Knights’ times) looking out over the valleys waiting for the Turks.
With free time to wander around, we go into a little display room in one of the towers that has old weaponry as well as a fireplace and cooking implements, then meander our way out into the village for the views. It is breathtaking. The hint of fall color in the trees, fog streaming over the valley below, seemingly creeping its way up the mountainside to the fortress, perfectly framing the ruins of walls and little rooms on the exterior walls. I’m completely taken with these fortified churches and villages. Totally fascinating!
I could stay up here all day, but we have the main attraction coming up: Bran Castle, otherwise known as Dracula’s Castle. Back on the train, back on the bus – we’re off to see Dracula!
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