On the way back from Civita, we decide to stop at the Necropoli del Corcifsso del Tufo – the Etruscan necropolis outside of town that is included in our Carta Unica. We’ve been past here before, when we missed the turn on our arrival to Orvieto – so I know where we’re going. Yay.
We are the only visitors on this day, and it is pretty neat to have the whole site to ourselves. There is a nice little museum type display that gives a lot of explanation to the necropoli. Dating from the 6th Century BC, the tombs were originally found in the 1800s, and initially sort of plundered, with art and archeological finds sent off to the Louvre and the British Museum. By 1880, archeologists began to explore and save the tombs, keeping their finds locally in Orvieto museums, and discovering 100’s of tombs here and also on the south side of the town in the Necropoli della Cannicella (not included in our Carta Unica).
Outside, we follow the path through a lovely garden area to the tombs at the base of the Orvieto tufa cliff. Wow – it is amazing to see all the rows and rows of tombs, lined up in what they call an urban plan. Totally amazing.
We wander through the streets, looking into every tomb we can. Most have a stone bench inside, for laying the corpse upon, and on the entrance to each tomb, above the doorway, the name of the person is engraved in the stone – many of which we can still see.
We end up spending quite a bit of time here, wandering from section to section of this dead city. It’s quite large, and totally captivating, just thinking about the mindset of the Etruscans, the creation of this place, and then the abandonment for so many years until discovery.
It is easy navigating back to the parking deck, and we are quickly back in the apartment hanging out, and resting for a bit. Our next excursion is to the Pozzo della Cava – tunnels in the Medieval Quarter of Orvieto that were discovered when owners of a cafe started renovation. We’ve not been to the Medieval quarter yet, and thought it would be a good afternoon excursion.
We walk the ramparts heading toward the caves and spy the restaurant we want to go to tonight. Very close – an easy walk. Then we head down, down, down into the Medieval quarter. The caves are right on the main street and we find them easily. The curator/owner/old Italian gentleman who is manning the entrance is a hoot. He takes our Carta Unica and hole punches out the caves, then he comes after me with the hole puncher, going for my ears. Too cute.
We wander through the caves, which are just incredible – huge caverns with old stream beds running through them. The original Etruscan well has been dug out and made into a city cistern in later years. You can see both the original well and the existing cistern here.
It’s just amazing, these caves under the city. Here there are also displays of pottery that have been found, as well as recreations made by local artists to show how the pieces would look. The self guided tour takes us about 30 minutes, ending in the cafe and gift shop. My Italian friend beckons to us as we enter the cafe, he takes my hand and leads me into a little dining area, I’ve not idea what he’s doing. He then backs up and pulls me with him into a corner…where he points down to the floor – and we are standing on a clear window looking down into the cave meters below. Too funny. He clearly delights in surprising us this way.
The little cafe is cozy and sweet, so we stay a while ordering a beer and wine. Then back out into the windy afternoon. Our initial plans were to explore the Medieval quarter, but we decide to leave that for another visit – we already have a huge up hill segment to navigate and Ed has his marinated pulpo (Octopus) he bought at the market waiting for him in the apartment.
Later that evening, we walk back around the rampart to Le Grotte del Funare – a lovely restaurant located in one of the caves at the edge of the rampart. We’ve read reviews that you can’t get into this place without reservations, but once again, there is no one here. It is obviously because of the season. There is one other table of 8 Americans – and us. That’s it. The space is great – inside the cave with dark wood and the rough chiseled walls.
Service is great – and the food incredible as well. We speak our basic Italian, but fortunately our waiter speaks English – so I can ask him what Faraona is – he can’t quite explain it, but says it is like chicken. Oh – well – forget that – I’ll go with the Mailina (not the right spelling!) which I know is the pork. The waiter approves, saying it is the house specialty – and wow – he was right to approve – it is like baked porchetta. Totally tasty! We start with antipasto (of course) and Ed has the mixed grill – which is equally tasty and a big portion.
What a fantastic end to a great time in Orvieto. We are already planning our return trip here – maybe next year!
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