From Tillamook, our goal is to head to Cape Meares, then down to Cape Lookout and Cape Kiwanda. Unfortunately, the Bayocean drive part of the Cape Meares loop drive is closed, so we have to go around the long way. It’s not that big a deal, but it does take longer and we’ll end up back tracking our way to the other Capes.
But the drive is worth it – even if we’ll see it twice. We pass through forests, farmland and then tiny beach hamlets along the way. Finally into the park, where we are rewarded with fabulous views down the coast.
There is also a walk to the lighthouse, but it’s really muddy and we’re not ruining our only pair of sneakers for a photo – I get one through the trees anyway!
It’s a little too cold and windy to eat outside, so we end up picnicking in the car. We can still look out the window at the gorgeous views, and we’re toasty warm with not wind, rain or bugs to bother us!
Back through the loop road we go, onto Cape Lookout, which is lovely, but we’re sort of Cape’d out and we’ve still go about 3 hours to drive. So we take a few (very few) photos, decide to ditch Cape Kiwanda and make our way back to 101 to head to Reedsport.
The drive is still spectacular with lots of great pull off areas for photos. Stop 1 – about an hour down the road (including me and our great upgraded car!):
Stop 2 – an hour further south where we stop to stretch our legs at Cape Foulweather, so named because the weather was stormy the day Captain James Cook discovered the cape (winds of 100 MPH are not uncommon here):
Stop 3 – still further south, where the cliffs are starting to soften, giving way to wider beaches and gentle slopes. Still forest and mountains, but not those dramatic steep ravine like cliffs:
Stop four: More gentle slopes, filled with pine trees and walking trails below the pull off that lead to tidal pools beside the ocean:
Stop five: Last scenic outpost of the day – looking more like Hawaii than Oregon. Furious waves, lots of rock formations and a stretch of beach as far as the eye can see:
We are finally close to Reedsport, on the way we’ve driven through lush pine forests, open fields and farmland, breathtaking cliffs and panoramic ocean views. We’ve also followed lots and lots of campers and 5th wheel campers, one of which didn’t appear to be attached correctly and gave us great concern as we were certain it was going to tip over at every curve! We also drove through construction set up like in Europe – where one lane of the road was closed and a temporary traffic light was installed to control the traffic. As we near Reedsport, the landscape changes into the massive sand dunes of the Oregon Coast. And instead of trees and craggy cliffs, we pass through desolate sand dune hills with deforestation sections and what appears to be active logging.
Driving down out of the sand dunes, we cross the Umpqua River on one of the cool Art Deco bridges we’ve been seeing all day. I think the stonework is just wonderful – and virtually every bridge has some sort of different design. We roll into town – which is a tiny little hamlet bisected by Highway 101. Our hotel is right on the highway across from the grocery store, McDonalds and the Mexican restaurant. It’s Sunday night, and we’re a little worried we’ll be eating at the grocery store, but the girls at the desk give us two recommendations – one of which – the Harbor Light – is right down the road. Sounds like us!
The Harbor Light turns out to be the greatest little local joint. It’s more woodsy themed, than ocean-oriented, with dark wood, cowboy décor and bears and elk on the front sign – and the food is phenomenal. Ed gets the mixed seafood platter with lots and lots of fried fish, shrimp and clams, along with chowder. I get the wasabi shrimp, along with a side salad. Totally different and totally good. THe only thing missing was bread on the side to sop up all the great sauce I left behind. Then the piece-de-résistance was the 3 huge cookies we got to take with us for a dollar. Yes, $1. Snacks for tomorrow’s road trip!
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