After lunch we cycle off to the Salt farms, stopping for photos along the way (including the “Asian pose” that Nok teaches us!) and passing another krill drying area. This time though the krill are a bright, bright red. That’s because these particular shrimps are going to be the dried shrimps found in lots of Thai dishes. When they finally dry, they will be a nice pink color, losing some of the red vibrancy.
The salt farms are amazing – the salt pans stretch as far as the eye can see – they are all farmed in the old traditional man made way – the water begins at the far side of the pans, then is sluiced through to each section, depending upon temperature. When the temperature is correct, the water is let into the pan and the sun evaporates the water leaving the salt. This process is repeated several times before actually creating a pan full of salt. The salt is then rolled flat, using what Nok called a Flintstone machine (it really does look like the Flintstone mobile!!) in preparation of moving it to the salt sheds. One of the salt farmers (we called him the salt cowboy!) gave us a long lecture (translated by Nok of course) about the process he and his family have been using now for generations. And generations to come, judging from the kids who followed us at every turn!
The pictures in the next photo album show the pans, as well as the holding sheds that eventually are filled completely with salt.
Further down the lane, we saw the men actually collecting the salt, piling it into salt pyramids, transferring it to their wheelbarrows and then taking it into the salt shed. Wow! Back breaking!
Once the salt is collected, it’s sold and then sent to processing for consumption. How totally interesting!
We leave the salt farms, catching site of a few more water monitors, and head back north for the ferry. But in between, we meander through dirt paths and lanes, and take a quick stop at a park where we can walk out to the water and see the progress of the land reclamation efforts here. An entire forest of mangroves have been hand planted here in an effort to keep the land from sinking. While we are admiring the forest, we also watch a line of hundreds of fishing vessels sailing out to sea. There are more boats than we’ve ever seen, sailing in a straight line out over the horizon. We also catch more glimpses of the mudslingers – or walking fish – that live in the mud here. These “fish” can’t swim, but walk across the mud leaving trails that look like a Google Earth map!
Now we wind or way back to Tha Chin, down empty lanes and past huge, 5 story cement built “bird condo’s” (so named by Nok). These “condo’s” are huge buildings that house swallow nests used in bird’s nest soup. They are extremely valuable and guarded, so to keep poachers away, the first floor is for the family or people who take care of the birds and nests, and the rest of the floors are for the birds. It’s amazing – these huge buildings out in the middle of nowhere – with the birds singing away inside – you can hear them from miles away (and no, for some reason I didn’t manage to get any photos of them – my bad!).
Finally we’re back in the little town of Tha Chin, where we visit the most beautiful crematorium in the country. It is beautiful all right, ornate and gilded – but the best thing about it is the fact that as we get closer to look inside the ovens – there’s a dog in there sleeping! How hysterical is that? We’re assuming somebody checks the thing before they light it!
Now it’s time to get back on the ferry and head back to the train. The ferry is packed this time and we’re lucky to push our way on, with all the people and motor bikes! Back at the market in front of the station, it’s a whole different scene now. 
No more crowds – they’ve all gone back to Bangkok – and the little town is sort of settling into its night time routine. We position our bikes, then go wander around looking for a beer. We’ve got 1/2 hour before the train, and while we don’t find any beer (which is probably a good thing because there is a sign at the train station saying that there is a 100,000b fine and 6 months in prison for having alcohol in the train station!!!), we do find tons of market vendors all around the station. Including one vendor actually on the train tracks! Guess the train isn’t coming soon!
This time, getting on the train isn’t quite so easy – it’s packed with people coming off – and getting on, but we manage to make it and actually get seats before we pull out. It’s a long hour ride back – mostly because it is so packed and we’re on the hot side of the train – the breeze seems to be on the other side of us.
When we arrive, it’s full on dark in Bangkok – so we turn on our lights and carefully follow Nok and Roland back to the Grasshopper store front. The cool thing is – even though I loathe riding bikes at night – especially in a city!! – that we get to cross over the river bridge again at night. Wow! What a sight. the Wats all lit up and glowing., and the city lights reflected in the river. I tried to take a pix – but it didn’t work so you’ll just have to imagine it!
We say goodbye to all our biking partners, and to Nok and Roland. What a fabulous day! Long (it’s after 7pm now), but really fabulous. We couldn’t have asked for a better guide, tour and companionship. Nok and Roland are a great team, and we’re really, really glad we went with them today!
Now, it’s time to find some dinner. Since we are in the Khao San road area, we try to find a great little bar/restaurant Ed has read about (Thai owned but named “Smiths”) . Khao San road is backpacker heaven, it’s dirt cheap and it is a party/carnival atmosphere. When you turn onto Khao San road it’s like walking into the gaudiest, loudest, most obnoxious carnival midway you’ve ever seen. Packed with people of all ilks, but mostly backpackers, there are restaurants and bars on either side of the street, with handicraft and henna tattoo booths in the middle of the street. Hawkers selling glowing little things you throw in the air like a rocket. It’s an assault to every one of your senses. Not a place we like – but one that is necessary right now for our nutritional well being!
We actually manage to find the restaurant tucked away upstairs behind some big hotel complex. But darn! It’s closed. So now what do we do? Forage out into the madness? Not a chance! After some wandering, we actually go one street past Khao San and find a mini-Khao San type area – same basic idea, still people in the streets, loud noisy music and huge packed restaurants, but it’s a tad bit saner over here. We actually find a nice Thai place that is all but deserted – we figure it’s coz it’s expensive, but its not really – yes! Tables with tablecloths, pillows on chairs, cold beer (wine is only by the bottle, not on our last night here – not worth it) – hey – we’re all in. Decent food, Ed had a calamari curry that was totally different and delicious. I had a disappointing papaya salad (too much fish sauce, not enough spice) but some great chicken satays. Overall – a really nice way to end the evening.
Found a Tuk Tuk to take us home – he started at 200b – Ed got him down to 120 – and we were back in our nice cool hotel room in about 15 minutes. Next up….Chiang Mai!
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