Our friends, Ada and Renato, from the Constellation Baltic Sea cruise, have given us recommendations for a Tango show, Taconeando, they really enjoyed when there were here in BA. It sounded right up our alley – small, good food, not touristy at all – so we asked the hotel to make the arrangements for us. We were lucky and got reservations, plus transportation to and from the show. Works for us!
Our ride showed up for us right at 8:45 as scheduled, a plain 6 seat van. We were worried that we might have to cruise all over the city for other folks, but after only one stop a short distance away, we headed to San Telmo and Taconeando. We passed tons of restaurants and garishly lit Tango shows on the way. Huge Vegas-like signs and glitz. We were really happy when we arrived at Taconeando, on a little side street, with a very unassuming entrance and maitre de (or the owner, more likely!) standing out on the street waiting for us.
We were checked off the reservation list and led to a great little table for two up on the riser about 10 feet from the stage. The whole room didn’t seat more than 80 people – it was so small and intimate – even though we were technically “behind” the stage – we were so close – it didn’t matter, we could see everything!
The place was only half full at best, and only a handful of people were eating. We sat wondering what the protocol was, and how this all worked. Looking around – we knew for sure we were the only English speaking people there, so we were hoping for the best! The couple next to us ordered and got their bread – we didn’t have a menu or silverware yet – so we hoped the reservations were correct and were for dinner and the show. Eventually the waiter came over to get our drink order – and thankfully we could communicate enough in English to get the menu and figure out what we were doing.
The dinner choices are veal with tuna sauce or empanadas for app’s (although we could only have the veal for some reason – we couldn’t have empanadas – but everyone else got empanadas – couldn’t quite figure that one out…but whatever!); steak or chicken for dinner, and ice cream, coconut cheesecake, peaches or flan for dessert. Drink choices – again – were beer and only bottles of wine. Since I really didn’t want a whole bottle of wine for myself, we choose to share 2 beers (they were the only thing not included in the total).
We placed our order and waited and watched. There was a huge group below us, a big family, as it turned out celebrating grandpa’s 80th birthday, and they all wandered in at different times. Other people kept coming in and sitting down – so that everyone was at all sorts of different stages of food and servings. We couldn’t figure out the strategy here, so we just sat quietly and watched and waited!
Our food came out fast – the veal was good (the tuna sauce too strong for me – but that’s me and tuna sauce – I’m not a tuna casserole kinda girl either – so…..I scraped it off and at the veal!), Steak was pure Argentinean – good, strong flavor, cooked well, french fries – well – while they are so bad for us, they were so good!!! We ordered more beer and water, and continued to watch the parade of people and the food orders streaming out of the kitchen.
We couldn’t figure out if the show would start after we were all done with dinner – or while people were still eating. As it turns out, they wait until the room is full – and they obviously have
“hustlers” going out and getting people to come in for the show. We watched one lady coming and going with a walkie talkie, and always bringing back people. The show started around 11pm when she had filled the last table.
Meanwhile we’re watching the interaction of the owners (an older lady with white hair, the guy who greeted us, our driver, and some other folks we thought were friends who came in and sat in one corner) and everyone else, just enjoying the whole atmosphere and soaking it in!
Finally, the lights dim and the show begins. Oh, oops, didn’t figure in the fact that everything would be in Spanish! Oh well! They are telling the story of Tango (that part we got), and since we know the story, we could sort of follow along! But, regardless of the language, the show was fantastic. Because the place was so small, you could really see the dancers and their moves and how incredibly choreographed and in step they were. There were 3 sets of dancers who were all fantastic. Two singers – a male and a female – again fantastic. Then a special guest singer – and older gentleman who reminded us of a Argentinian Charles Aznevour (a famous French singer). It was quite the show – and the crowd, including us, just loved it!
After about an hour or more (we lost track of time!), the emcee came out on stage and thanked everyone for coming and went on and on about what….we don’t know! But everyone loved him. So eventually he turns to every single table and asks them where they are from. Oh, ok, so that’s part of what he’s been talking about probably – how international, etc., etc. Well, he keeps up this running conversation with virtually every table, and there is one couple sitting with 2 others at a table that says “Seattle, Washington”. No way do they speak Spanish (but as we’re leaving they are with the other couple who are definitely Argentinean, and they are thanking them for bringing them here – so we figure they translated for them). So, anyway, the emcee finally gets to us – and bless his heart – instead of talking this non-stop stream of whatever, he just puts out his hand to us, like “and now…..” – so Ed says “Estados Unidos” – everyone claps and the emcee moves on! Phew! Made it through that one!
After the introductions, there were a few more comments, then the dance crew came out for last introductions and we all paid and started to file out the door. We wandered outside to wait for our drive, and the owner put the couple we had been with in a taxi. Hmmm…. he paid the taxi driver, but then he didn’t say anything to us. Finally we asked in our pigeon Spanish, and he basically said we were waiting for our driver. No biggie. We waited a little bit, and he came out, we walked to the van and started home.
As we were heading out of the parking area, the driver’s daughter hopped in and started speaking rapid fire Spanish to us. Once she figured out we spoke English she practiced on us the whole ride home. She was a doll! Spoke incredibly well – except for one whole long dialogue about the politics of Argentina, where we got totally lost – but otherwise – she was great. And she learned it all from TV. From CSI and “Dr. House” and Criminal Intent……we’re renting Spanish subtitle movies from now on! Amazing!
We were deposited safely at our hotel a little after 1am. What an amazing evening. It was fantastic and we’re so glad we got to go to a true Argentinean tango show, one that was native and not touristy and not all in English. It was really an experience, one we’ll remember forever!
Next up…..NCL and the Sun.
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