Tuesday, February 26, 2013

2/15–Bye bye Solstice, hello Fremantle

CIMG9065Parting is such sweet sorrow….this morning we are off the ship for good and heading for the Terrace Central B&B in Fremantle for 2 nights.  It is rather sad, though, to leave this ship and our new friends. We’ve really enjoyed our time aboard – much more than on the Silhouette - and are once again hooked on Celebrity.  But , now it is time to move on to our next adventure.

Our luggage call is for 8am and we are actually off the ship with luggage in hand before 8.  Worked well!  Except they took our sea pass cards!  First time ever they have taken them from us – haven’t a clue why – and now we won’t have a full collection.  Oh well – we’re probably missing some from ages ago anyway – and yeah – that’s a little scary insight into what I keep and what I don’t!  Smile

Out into the lot and up across the pedestrian bridge, we begin our trek up up the street to the hotel.  When we looked at the map, it looked a lot closer than it actually is – I think because we docked in a different location than where we thought.  But nonetheless, we huff our way into town and get to the hotel pretty easily (and heck – we didn’t go to the gym this morning, so this is our workout).

The hotel is very centrally located – you can walk to all the great pubs, restaurants and markets from here. The girl at the desk takes our bags, gives us our room key and tells us not to come back until 2pm or she will get in trouble.  Ok.  We were going to explore anyway! So 0ff we go to fill in the next 5 hours with Fremantle!

Here again, the architecture is just great.  Old stone buildings, that French Colonial look with wrought iron balconies, shaded pedestrian mall and lots of porticoes on Market street to walk under.

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The center of town has a very vibrant retail/dining/entertainment district too – it’s not open now – but will be bustling by the time we get back from our explorations.  We hit the TI and pick up a bunch of walking maps that feature history, maritime, pubs/breweries and retail highlights.  We choose the history walk because it seems to capture most of the town.  We start off on Market street, then walk over to the Fishing Harbor to look at the boats and the restaurants here.  There are great statues at a memorial for fishermen who have lost their lives at sea.

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And of course tons of boats.  This whole country is boat happy – I suppose because so much of their population lives on the coast. 

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There is also a statue of Bon Scott who was with AC/DC and was raised here in Fremantle from 1958 on.  It’s a great statue with a full overview of his history, but it is fairly odd sitting here in the middle of the wharf. We guess there is some tie to the docks here – but it wasn’t in the explanation so unless we care enough to Google it – don’t think we’ll ever know!

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Back on the walk, we visit the “round house” – an original building from the first settlers here in Fremantle.  It’s built on top of a rock cliff and housed prisoners (what a surprise) in its early days.  Sort of cool place – but the docents are busy with other tourists, so we don’t get the full impact of the place, but  just wander and look into the little rooms around the interior.

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It’s also getting really, really hot – and we don’t want to stand outside in the blazing sun for more info here, so we press on and detour to the Maritime Museum (the guest lecturer aboard Solstice, Brian, said it was a great place to explore when it gets too hot to walk around outside).  And it’s as good as Brian promised!  First off, we got a senior “concession” for Ed, so it only cost him half price and secondly – it’s air conditioned!  Oh joy! What a relief!

We spend a lovely hour or so wandering the galleries, looking at the sailboat that won the World Cup, a sailboat that went around the world 3 times, replicas of a sunken submarine, and general artifacts of the sailing/boating world.

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There was also a great Antarctic exhibition that we spent time wandering through and reminiscing.  Overall, an excellent mid-day respite from the heat.

Back on the street, we wander through the E-shed markets (boring) and head back up Market Street in search of lunch.  There’s some great street art – little cement tables and stools with messages engraved upon them.  This place strikes us as a little bit like Asheville too – funky, vibrant, a little earthy. 

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We end up at Sail and Anchor, a local brew pub and with great memorabilia on the walls. All sorts of beer posters and ads – really fun atmosphere.

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More expensive burgers and fried seafood platters (yuck – no more fried!!!), beer and wine and now we’re closer to our 2pm appointed hour! So we spend some time in the Market shops, pick out some gifts, and then head back up the street to the Terrace at just after 2.

We’re all set, bags already in the room, so we head down to our “Bakery Studio” – which was originally a real working bakery complete with wood fired oven – still in the bedroom! 

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This place is great – large living room with covered porch outside…

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There are some great wooden statues of cats in the living area as well as a cute, compact little kitchen area off the side of the bedroom.  We’ve got a microwave, fridge and a kettle for coffee.  We are in business!

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After organizing a bit, we head back into town to grocery shop. Since we had such a huge lunch, we decide to grab some cheese, sausage and crackers and just have a picnic in for dinner.  Picked up some Latvian Liverwurst (yeah, Latvian, who knew?) and assorted cheeses along with beer and wine then headed back for a nice quiet evening in the “Bakery”.  Very fun!  Started watching a movie, got bored, loaded most of the blog, sat outside enjoying the weather and just generally relaxed.  Nice first night off the ship!

Friday, February 15, 2013

2/14–Albany

Happy Valentine’s day!   We arrive in port early today – way before our 7AM schedule, but again, since this is a brand new port for the Solstice, the captain docks us very slowly.  We don’t care – we are just going out for a walk today.  Albany is a cute little town – but without much to do and we are only here until 12 noon when we absolutely must leave so that we can make it to Perth/Fremantle on time in the morning.  So important is our sailing time, that the CD, in his morning news program, tells everyone that they are more than welcome to just stay aboard if they don’t have definite plans for the port.  That way they can relax, be treated in Celebrity style and and not be late or miss the ship entirely because “we must leave at precisely noon”.  Okie dokie!

We of course, have no plans to stay aboard, nor to be late!   We are off the ship at 7:15 and the town has very kindly provided shuttles into the center of the city.  Not that we need it, but what the heck?  So we hop on the first shuttle and are deposited into the center of town in about 5 minutes.  It’s an adorable little place with lots of great old buildings dating back to the late 1800’s (a very young country! Even compared to the US!).  They are putting on a little market – which of course isn’t completely set up yet – and seem to be very happy about our ship’s arrival.

We have a historical walking tour planned, so we head off down the main boulevard to the beginning of our walk at the old Gaol.  Not very picturesque – but – it’s historical.  originally used for the convict labor hiring depot, it was converted to a jail in 1872. 

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Onward we go – across the railway tracks to the replica of the Brig Amity – the ship that was used to carry the first settlers to Albany in 1826.  Nice. Plus there’s a great view through the prow of our ship in the distance.  More picturesque!

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Back through the town we wander, passing an original cottage that was transplanted to its current location…

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…The Wesley church with it’s Victorian touches…

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…St. Johns which is just lovely hidden in the trees…

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Then back on the main street to a fabulous Town Hall building where the foundation stone was laid by the “Mayoress” in 1886.  Now that’s progressive!

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One more stop at the London Hotel…

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then more fun architecture in the town….

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…and well, we’re done! We’ve covered the basics.  Got our morning constitutional in – and we’re ready to go back to the ship!  We walk back – more to burn time than exercise really – and board again around, oh, 8:45!  We’re still in time for the Elite lounge and cappuccino.  Now that’s what I call a port call!

Saw everything we wanted to see, had a great time, and now have tons of time to relax, read, blog and pack!  Very lovely day!

Later in the day, it appears that when we left—a bit late actually—we have left a couple of pax in port.  They paged for Mr. and Mrs. Soandso of cabin 72something to notify Guest Relations.  Obviously they didn’t, weren’t back on the ship and were “abandoned” in Albany.  The captain made it clear that we needed all the time we had—at full speed—to make Fremantle (our disembarkation port) on time.  Normally they would have delayed departure to try to accommodate the latecomers but not this time.  Luckily, it is only a 5+ hour drive from Albany to Fremantle, so it is possible that Mr. and Mrs. Soandso of cabin 72something will beat us there.

2/13–Esperance afternoon

Back in town – we know where we are going – so no need for Alicetta to mess us up – we park on the main road and go in search of lunch and wi-fi.  There was an ad on our map for the Dome Restaurant with “affordable food prices” and wi-fi.  That’s us!  Not!  It is jammed packed with cruise people – and it’s a cafĂ© (more a brekky/coffee place) with no alcohol.  Nope – next.

The other restaurant we saw advertised was closed, so we decide to try to find the information center and ask about restaurants outside of town. We still have the car after all.  Well, the info center is way the heck down the street and after we walk for a while, we ditch that idea and come back into town.  We just happen to stumble by the very unassuming looking Esperance Hotel where they have a bar called Hole in the Wall.  Sounds like us! 

We go and sit at the bar – and knowing it’s more pub style we try to figure out if we need to go to the register to order or not.  There is a big sign that says for counter food, order at the bar. Ok – Ed sees a Steak Sandwich on the menu, I’ll have the salad plate. The bartender finally arrives and he is a grouchy, mean old dude who just sort of grunts.  Can we order food?  Order over there in the restaurant.  Ok, but can I bring it back in here? He gives me a look – order over there.  Ok – whatever.  I go to order – and tell Ed to order us drinks if Mr. Personality comes back.

In the meantime, the darling (for real) waitress takes our order and gives me drinks.  Then, after we’ve chatted about what we’ve done today and she finds out we have a car, she proceeds to tell me we can’t miss the Tourist Loop.  It’s only about 10 minutes and it’s beautiful beaches and reefs.  Well, ok, sure, we have time!

I go back to the bar – and you guessed it – Ed didn’t see me get the drinks, so he’s got wine and beer too.  Oh well!  The restaurant wine is out of a bottle – the bar wine – out of a box!  Funny!

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We make friends with an Aussie couple (he’s Aussie, she’s a Kiwi) who own a bar in what I think they say is Calgary but Ed thinks its Kali-something or other – south of Perth.  Anyhow, they are delightful and we all laugh about Mr. Grumpy bartender who is now throwing the water gun down on the counter in a huff every time he uses it.  We chat about the cruise, their holiday (just a few days because the big trip they planned got canceled due to the floods and weather) and generally just shoot the breeze.  After a while, Ed’s sandwich comes out – and I wish I could have taken a picture (I was a little afraid of getting yelled out by Mr. Grumpy!  I snuck the one above of the bar).  This thing was enormous! On toasted white bread no less, with huge tomatoes, lettuce, an egg, bacon and this monstrous steak.  Excellent!

My salad plate never comes, so I go ask the sweet waitress –and she points at a salad bar in the corner of the restaurant!  Oh, duh!  So I grab salad, coleslaw, a pickled beet (yep, Beckstoffers, pickled is good – plain – eh – I’ll leave to you!) and throw some vinegar on the top – I’m good to go!

We’re ready to leave, but we haven’t paid for our bar drinks yet. Grumpy forgot. So we call over another bartender and tell her we need to pay. She gets confused, tries to give me more wine – nol,m wait! Then she finally gets it and looks at us and says “most people would have just gotten up and left”.  We’re like, well, not our style.  So she gave us happy hour prices because we were so nice – and it was the cheapest beer and wine we’ve had all trip (well, at least since Happy Hour in Hawai’i)!

So, the good citizens head back to the car, circle the little town and head East out along the “tourist loop”.  This is actually the beginning of the Great Ocean Drive – a 40KM round trip that takes you along the coast then loops you back through an inland route. We had considered this, but after finding Le Grand, we decided to pass on it.  Turns out the first 10 or 15 KM is simply gorgeous and takes us no time at all to tour and see. 

Once again – stunning beaches (where lots of crew are frolicking in the water), incredible reefs and granite rock outcrops.  Very glad our waitress mentioned this to us! This is West Beach:

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The houses lining the road are interesting as well – modern and traditional, and a combination of both.  Oh, and the little Star Wars guy perched on the fence.  Interesting….

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Then onto Blue Haven beach:

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Then Salmon beach:

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Then finally Twilight beach:

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We decide to turn back at this point and head back into town, passing the long, long line for the tenders.  Oh my!  Well, what the heck. We turn the car in and decide we’ll go get a coffee at Cat Coffee – which is like a little food truck kind of trailer parked in the park.  We spy it as we go into the rental agency, and son of a gun!  As we come out – they’ve already left.  Darn it!  So, what to do? We don’t really want to get in line – it’s close to a 2 hour line--you can just tell.  But we don’t want to go back into town or have another beer or wine.  Oh well – heck – stand in the line!

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It’s crazy long, and crazy slow – but the only thing that will happen is more people will come. So we’ll just ride it out.  And probably a good thing we did too – it never really lets up – and it takes us 1 hour and 15 minutes to just get on a tender.  The weather has changed and the seas have gotten a little rough – so every tender ride is taking at least 25 minutes to get to the ship – and almost as long to get back.  But Celebrity being Celebrity has officers out there tending to the line, talking to people, explaining the delay. The cold towels and cold water are being distributed up and down the line – and finally they bring out umbrellas so you can shade yourself from the sun.  First class.

We finally hop on our tender – and holy guacamole!  It is the tender ride from hell.  We’ve had a lot of rough oceans, and some interesting tenders, but this is by far the worst we’ve ever had.  Twenty five minutes of swells that just won’t give up.  The driver (who gets a standing ovation when we arrive) has to steer into the swells, against them, cut the engines, it’s just brutal.  But – we make it – and boy – that ship has never looked so good!

These pictures give you a teeny-tiny taste of what it was like!

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At the time, Ed said if this had started earlier, he bet they would have stopped the tendering – and when we talked to the hotel director the next day – he said the same thing – the captain would have canceled the port call!  It was that brutal!

Back safe and sound – we proceed to do our normal nightly ritual and prepare for a very short port call in Albany tomorrow!