Friday, February 15, 2013

2/1–Dunedin– Morning on the Otago Peninsula

Another beautiful day in New Zealand, our last sadly, what a great country!  We just love it here.  Today we are renting a car to drive around the Otago Peninsula for a couple hours, then heading into town for a brewery tour – and of course Cadbury!  Landscape, beer and chocolate.  Perfect day!

We debate taking the local bus from Port Chalmers which is about 20 minutes from town. In the end we opt for the ship’s shuttle simply because the last local bus we can catch to Port Chalmers is an odd time and we’re a little worried about missing it – which would be so not good since we have 3 days of sailing until Sydney next!

So – we buy tickets for the first shuttle and present ourselves outside at 7:00 – a little early, but better than late.  The “shuttle hosts” (locals organizing the buses) are adorable – the nicest, funniest folks!  Totally personable, talkative, full of info.  Our bus driver hops on while we’re waiting for a full load (ha! there are 4 of us sitting there for a long time!) and talks up a storm. Telling us about the area, the weather, how great it is, giving us directions, etc.  He’s really great.  Finally we get maybe 7 people on the bus and nobody else is coming, so the gal who put us on the bus tells us to go because she feels bad we’ve been waiting for so long.  Nice!

We get into town by 8 – then have to find the rental agency.  It’s on Wharf street which is the other side of the railroad tracks.  We’re thinking it could be a bit challenging to get across the tracks – but we find a pedestrian bridge behind the railway station that deposits us on the street we need and hoof it down to Hertz.   The rental agency is way further than we expected, but it’s a nice morning, so this replaces the gym!

We get to Hertz , get our car and are on the road pretty quickly—probably the quickest we have ever hired a car.  The Hertz office happens to be right on the road to the peninsula, so it’s a quick left turn out of the lot and we are off.  Cool!

It only takes about 30-45 minutes to the furthest point of the Otago peninsula where the Albatross habitat is located, so we take our time winding around the narrow little 2 lane road – right on the water. And I mean RIGHT on the water – Ed is in his zone again, thankfully, because one little drift and you are IN the water.  A bit stressful…but beautiful!

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The road wends through little villages, past fishing houses on the sound and spectacular water views. We are driving across the bay from Dunedin, and we go so far that we come past Port Chalmers and our ship across the water!

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This really reminds us of Norway – the water, the landscape – and especially the little fishing houses on the water.  It’s very Nordic like – except the weather isn’t Nordic at all – it’s that perfectly comfortable temperature with a few little wispy clouds in the  distance. 

We continue on up the side of the hills, going further and further up on narrower and narrower roads.  The view is awesome, the driving, not so much!

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We make it to the Albatross habitat, which doesn’t open until 10:30 with the first tour at 11:00.  Well – we hadn’t planned on this any way – so no loss.  We wander down a pathway to the water – to see if CIMG8547we can spy some of the Albatross in their nests, and on the way have to pass about a bazillion seagulls.  Ugh. Nasty!  They smell, and they are squawking like crazy.  Ick.  I put the hood up on my jacket, because after the last incident, I’m not taking any chances!

On the coast, the view is stunning – no Albatross, not that we can see anyway, but the coastline is worth the walk. It’s rocky, craggy walls rise up out of the water, towering over us – you can just imagine the force of the water when it gets rough and how it has shaped this part of the area with its fury.

As we head back to the car I get seriously freaked out over those seagulls.  They are screaming at me as I walk by – like a mean, nasty scream that follows me in waves.  All I can think about is the movie “The Birds” – and I just freak.  I almost run up the darn hill, leaving Ed in the dust behind me!  That bird scream is still in my head!  Ack!  For the first time I can honestly say I understand my Mom’s bird phobia! 

Safely back in the car, heart rate back to normal, we proceed back the way we came to Portobello, where we’ll leave the coast and make the loop on the “high” road back to Dunedin.  Since it is so early, we stop at the Penguin CafĂ© in Portobello for a cappuccino so we can enjoy the great weather as well as burn off some time.  It’s quiet and the view is great – sitting a little above the cross road of Highcliff and Portobello roads.

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CIMG8690Sitting outside in the sun, enjoying our coffees, we watched as a couple of girls put their horses through some sort of training – they were reining them around on the pavement, then took them out into the shallow water for some reason.  Interesting to watch even if we hadn’t a clue as to what they were doing!

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After coffee, we head inland up the steep hill that is Highcliff road.  Windy, narrow, 2 lanes, but fabulous views! We are so glad we decided to come back this way as the views are entirely different –  more rolling grazing land, with the coast in the distance.

Around one corner we pass these scary trees – they are all lined up in a row, like they are waiting to reach out and grab you.  The picture doesn’t give you a good feel for it, but the trunks of the trees are right over the road, and as you come past them, they just seem scary, spooky, sort of alive.  Harry Potter Whomping Willow-like!  Driving here at dusk would be really creepy!

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Further on we pass the sheep!  sheep, sheep and more sheep!  Some of them “hamming” it up (or I guess I should say “mutton-ing” it up) for the camera.

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Great circle the peninsula drive!  We drop the car back at Hertz around 10:30 (we’re their shortest rental for sure – only 2 hours and 40 minutes! But so worth it!) and head back into town to Speight’s for our Brewery tour.

Thursday, February 7, 2013

1/31 - Akaroa–Lunch and afternoon wanderings

Lunch at Murphy’s is as advertised – excellent! 

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Fresh fish, local, BBQ’d right out front on a flat top grill – can’t do better than this!  We order the Gurnerd, which is  a local fish that is very popular here.  It’s awesome – light and sweet and flaky! And the way it’s prepared on the grill with minimal spices, a little lemon and some mayo on the bread.  Yummy!

We head down the pier and eat our sandwich on a park bench over looking the water.  How good does that look?  Makes for a lovely picnic!

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Now that we’re nourished, we set off toward the French side of town.  It’s a rather grueling walk down the harborside promenade. While we’ve been out on the boat with the refreshing harbor breeze, it’s warmed up quite a bit in town and there’s no breeze – but there’s 100% sun.  So it’s a little like baking ourselves as we walk the 10 minutes to the other side of town.  And while we tell ourselves we need to do this to see all the town, well, we’re wilted by the time we get to the French side!

Our oasis, though, turns out to be Ma Maison, a lovely little restaurant on the beach and French harbor.  There we have beer and wine….need to rehydrate now!  And cool off a bit before heading back to the English side for our afternoon walk.

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As we head back, we see more evidence of earthquake damage at the Banks Peninsula War Memorial, where 3 of the top ornaments have fallen off.  They actually came down in the 2010 earthquake which was larger than the 2011 one!  Wow!

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Back on the English side of town, we head to the Garden of Tane where there are paths through the forest – and where we think we can cool off a bit since we’ll be in the shade.  We have a map and an explanation of the Garden, but even the map calls the paths a “maze” and says it is confusing even with the map!  We pick a random path and just hope we can find our way out!  We’ve got 3 hours before the last tender, so we think we’ll be ok! LOL.

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It is refreshing in the forest, and we wander a bit, heading uphill (working off our fish sandwich) to an overlook with great vistas.

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We end up finding our way out of the gardens quite near the lighthouse.  So we hike up to see this original structure that used to be out on a point near the ocean, but that has been moved inland to protect it from something- I think falling in the ocean from all the earthquakes.

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We wander back along the water, basking in the sunshine (well, more like baking in the sunshine), enjoying the sights and sounds of this little village. 

So glad we got to come here! Not someplace we’d ever see if we weren’t on the ship.  Fun day in Akaroa.

1/31–Akaroa–”Coast up Close” boat tour

We have booked a 2 hour boat tour with Coast up Close, operated by Tony, a local skipper, who will take us around the coast and show us the wildlife and landscape.  We did it over the internet (what a surprise!) in July, and have a map of where the tour meeting place should be located. It should be at the end of the main wharf.  But as we left the tender, we didn’t see any Coast up Close office on the dock, or boat in the harbor. It’s early, we know, so we figure maybe he’ll be here later.  Then we get a copy of the town map, and Coast up Close is no longer listed on the map….hmmmm…maybe he’s just saving money and isn’t advertising anymore….maybe he’s not in business?  We keep our positive thoughts and hope we can find him when our 10:15 meeting time comes around.

As it turns out, our nerves were unfounded, Tony is – as promised – at the end of the dock with his boat – waiting for his 19 passengers to board (obviously, he’s not advertising on the town map any longer!).

We jump aboard the little fishing boat and get situated inside the cabin.  This will be a great intimate tour – quite unlike the ship tours we watch going out into the bay jam packed with people. Tony only takes 19 people out at a time, that’s all he’s allowed if he goes out of the bay into the Pacific, so we’ll have plenty of room to watch for nature on the bow and the upstairs seating area (the boat has a capacity of around 35 passengers).

We end up with 16 people – 2 didn’t show – but we’re off at 10:30 on CIMG8526the dot and cruising the harbor.  Tony is great – a local who grew up and has lived here virtually all his life (except for a few years in Britain and Europe playing professional rugby).  His mom is alive and lives on one of the coves, he lives on another, and his commute is a 10 minute skiff ride to the boat, then a sail over into Akaroa to pick up tourists.  Nice job!

Being a local, and being on the water (and in it – he dives quite a bit), CIMG8613he is really knowledgeable about all things Akaroa and nature.  I cannot even begin to remember 1/4 of the stuff he told us. He goes over the history of Akaroa (that’s where I got most of the intro history on the morning blog post), talks about the earthquakes (they had 2 yesterday- Yikes! – and have had over 7000 aftershocks), nature (he knows every bird, fish, dolphin, whale, penguin, whatever, you see it, he knows it) – and all of this while he’s got the boat just motoring away—he is a crew of 1-- and he’s standing up on the bow talking to us!  Love the confidence!

Two hours of complete fascination.  First of all it is an absolutely, picture perfect day.  Tony says he’s not seen the water this flat calm hardly ever (thank you to the water gods – Cathy is bowing down to you).  The sun is out, it’s really pleasant out here on the water as we watch the rolling pasture land hills dotted with houses fade away behind us, and the cliffs, bays and gorges start to appear all along the coastline. 

As we go further out toward the Pacific, we start looking for Hector’s dolphins, the smallest dolphin in the world, and only found in New Zealand.  We aren’t having much luck, which Tony doesn’t understand, unless they are possibly feeding. So we’ll keep looking, but in the meantime we keep sailing into little coves with caves etched out of the stone walls, and secluded beaches where some canoe and kayak folks are launching.  All along with Tony’s narrative about growing up here, the nature and the history of the rock formations all around us.

We stop along side some fur seals (sea lions), who have just had their pups.  They are stinky!  But they are really cute – the pups just lying there looking at us!  We can get really close – and they still just lie there with those big doleful eyes.  Aw….

We keep heading out, searching for dolphins and penguins.  There are the little blue penguins here – again the smallest in the world.  We finally do find some penguins swimming around – they are too cute!  (We’ve got tons of video too, but we’ll have to load that later, when we really have bandwidth!)

It’s gorgeous out here, and we just keep tooling around looking at the amazing landscape and basking in the sun.

On our way back in, we finally find some dolphins who are willing to play with us.  They are so cool – these little bullet shaped objects come torpedoing up to the boat, then go swimming right underneath the hull.  They are wicked fast and just seem like they are having a blast playing in front of us.  Of course we have awesome video of these guys too – but that will have to wait for bandwidth as well!  For now, you can get an idea from the pictures below.

We head back to the pier, happily sun drenched and nature satiated!  We climb up the ladder to the pier…

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…as Tony tells us that the freshest fish can be found at Murphy’s on the dock – and to try their BBQ fish sandwich.  We’re looking for lunch – so that’s the perfect recommendation for us!  Thanks Tony – for an awesome Coast up Close tour and food rec!  We’ve got our afternoon planned now!