4/22–Huatulco

We are finally going to visit Huatulco.  It’s taken years to get back here after one of the first cruises we took had to cancel the port due to a medical emergency.  One of our favorite “inside jokes” when someone is being dumb, or not listening, is to say “But what about Huatulco?”  Comes from sitting in the briefing where the Cruise Director of that long ago cruise explained we would not be going to Hualtulco because we had to divert to Puerta Vallerta for the emergency. He must have said it 3 times – and then somebody raises their hand and asks – yes – “what about Huatulco?”

Today we are finally going to find out what about Huatulco!  While it is basically a large resort town with all sorts of different bays and watersports – we of course are being a bit more adventurous than riding banana boats, and heading up the coast to visit a couple of neat little fishing villages. 

The sail in and sunrise is stunning, watching the sky light up as we navigate into the bay past rocky outcroppings.  And while warm, it’s nothing like yesterday, so we spend a long time on the balcony watching the scenery glide by.

We dock and head out into the little town area following our map to the rental car agency. We get a little ways out and decide to cab it up to the place – a cabbie just happened to be coming by as we were beginning an uphill ascent, and we flagged him down.  Perfect timing.

We picked up the car, got directions (it’s painfully easy – there is only one road – makes it very nice for CPS!), and headed out of town – past the airport and into the wilds of Mexico.  Two lane road, running through the mountains, past all sorts of little shops and restaurants – totally local.  It’s really quite lovely and serene – except for the twists and turns of the road that is.

We turn off the highway heading toward Puerto Angel.  It’s a local fishing village, and we think maybe we can stop here for a bit.  The road winds down the mountain – and I mean winds – until we are at the ocean, still winding between buildings and plazas and little outcroppings looking over the water.

Passing through the main town, we don’t really see anything of interest. Plus it is early, so there is no sense stopping anywhere. We continue on along the coast road, and turn off to head to the beach – which turns out to be a little almost one lane road that ends – literally – at the beach.  We end up having to reverse all the way out, because the road is one car width with no where to turn around.  And the last thing we want to do is get stuck in the sand on the beach.

Onward we forge, following the little twisty coastal road, until we finally reach Zipolite.  This is a teeny artisan community that is described as a hippie hang out.  It is also the location of one of the few nude beaches in Mexico.  After circling the town, literally 4 roads that form a rectangle, we park and wander down the small little village streets and through the cobblestone alley that leads to the beach. This is adorable!

And the beach is gorgeous. Pristine, hardly anyone about, and a beautiful breeze that makes strolling around delightful.  We take in the scenery, then head to a palapa covered restaurant to cool our heels for the rest of the morning and early afternoon.

Sitting in the shade, watching beachgoers stroll by, we refresh ourselves with a couple of beers…

…then move onto lunch. I opt for one of the specials, which I thought was going to be seafood, but ends up chicken. Oh well, it was still good, like little taquitos.  Ed gets the pulpo – which is incredibly good.

 

We end up spending quite an enjoyable few hours here, eating, drinking and people watching.  Good choice.

Back on the road, we head back through Puerto Angel, and up to the highway, passing through the mountains and the scenery. We have decided it is much like the Blue Ridge Parkway….only with Tequila…

We arrive back into town without incident (well, if you don’t count the gasoline incident where we were thoroughly ripped off using USD.  Didn’t have enough pesos, and let’s just say the exchange rate was slightly more than highway robbery). We got into a conversation with the rental agent who, are you ready for this?, lived in the states and worked in Hendersonville – on a farm, harvesting.  Talk about a small world! They drove through Asheville on their way to work every day.  Amazing.  He would love to go back – but right now he’s got a very good job, wife and family in Huatulco, so, he’s trying to immigrate slowly, step by step and see what happens.  He was so sweet, and even sweeter, he drove us back to the marina (although we went to the wrong marina first, then we finally got turned back around to the correct cruise pier).

We wished our friend luck in the future, then headed back into the Santa Cruz pier area. Strictly tourist here.  Which is fine, but we were so glad we got out and away.  We didn’t want to go back to the ship right away, so we hang out at one of the bar/restaurants right on the beach – pay too much for beer and nachos – but spend an enjoyable hour or so watching the crew ride the banana boats – or fall off the banana boats as the case may be.

All in all, a very pleasant and lovely day.  So now we know about Huatulco.